What would you change? Custom options

[PrecisionLook612]

Hello everyone. I have been pouring through all of your wonderful builds for weeks and I think I am ready to pull the trigger and order up a brand new Look Element 6x12 optioned the way I want straight from the factory. I am planning to do a Benroy style build with the sealed off galley in the back and the sleeping quarters up front. Here is the way I think I want to order my trailer:

6x12 V-nose single axle trailer
Side door with the RV style latch
(2) 22x30 windows installed
Brakes on the axle
Barn Doors on the back
Porch light
Ceiling punched and braced for a roof a/c unit but more than likely a fantastic fan
Scissor jacks on the back to stabilize it
Extended tongue if possible for batteries and LP

My question is for those who have built a trailer, what other options would you add to my list? Any suggestions that I may not have thought of?

I want to stick with the standard height as I am only 5'8" and my fiancee is 5'6" so the less height means less wind resistance going down the road. I went and stood in the noraml 6' interior height so it's close but I can still stand up straight. The same thing goes at keeping it 6' wide instead of 7'.

Thanks in advance.

[flboy]

Unless you have one already, a spare tire is a good idea and you will probably be able to have it match and cost less than buying one later.

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[NotJammer]

Get a screen door. It was an option for me. A good one.

I wish I had specified steel wheels as I think they are stronger and reparable with a hammer.

Any insulation options? I wanted closed cell foam underneath but they said no. I later found that to be a lie. Too late.

I went for drop jacks as they seemed to give more ground clearance. Not ideal, but nothing is.

Bogey wheels are an idea. As is added height. Mine is low.

Go over all options a bunch of times. I think they save money.

[PrecisionLook612]

Get a screen door. It was an option for me. A good one.

I wish I had specified steel wheels as I think they are stronger and reparable with a hammer.

Any insulation options? I wanted closed cell foam underneath but they said no. I later found that to be a lie. Too late.

I went for drop jacks as they seemed to give more ground clearance. Not ideal, but nothing is.

Bogey wheels are an idea. As is added height. Mine is low.

Go over all options a bunch of times. I think they save money.

I am going to insulate it myself and run my own wiring. The bogey wheels are a great idea, I can see them being a lifesaver even on a shorter trailer.

Thanks!

[PigTrail]

We ordered ours with a built in screen door in addition to the exterior man door. We use this a lot when camping. Big plus for us.

[CoventryKid]

Definitely a proper screen door. This wasn't an option when I bought our NEO 3 years ago. Next NEO for us, it will be.

Just for your consideration, take a look at the Maxxair fan. I have no affiliation, etc. with the company, but the Maxxair has a built-in rain cover unlike the Fantastic fan. A "rain sensor" is probably pretty neat (automatically close the fan when it rains), but what happens when you want the fan on when it is raining? You (probably) buy a Maxxair fan cover.

My wife and I have been living in our CTC full-time for almost 2 years now. Our Maxxair fan is open all the time, rain or shine, sometimes the fan is running, sometimes not. Nary a leak.

Just thought I should mention our experience.

Hope this helps.

[Padilen]

I'd not plan on a portable AC.


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[PrecisionLook612]

I'd not plan on a portable AC.


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Vs a rooftop unit or even a window unit? Do the portable ones not work even with proper venting?

I will look into the screen door and the spare as well.

[McDave]

I'd not plan on a portable AC.


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Vs a rooftop unit or even a window unit? Do the portable ones not work even with proper venting?

I will look into the screen door and the spare as well.

There has been a lot of "discussion" as well as debate about Air Conditioning. If budget is not a concern, then you don't need to re-invent the wheel. Rooftop A/C's are proven, tried and true, purpose built machines that are located in the proper place. Every other type, with the possible exception of mini-splits are a compromise solution. You have to be willing to accept trade offs in order to save a couple hundred dollars. Your original question indicates that you want to do this once and do it right. Don't step over dollars to pick up dimes. You mentioned having the rooftop A/C framing installed, I would suggest planning/adding an additional frame so you can have a rooftop vent AND rooftop A/C. If you are planning a bathroom/shower that would be a good place to vent, or above stove top. Try to keep weight and balance in mind as you are planning so that permanent installs like tanks and A/C's etc. are somewhat balanced when trailer is empty. Here is a tool that will help.
https://www.engineersedge.com/calculato ... alance.htm
Just my opinion.

McDave

[working on it]

...There has been a lot of "discussion" as well as debate about Air Conditioning. If budget is not a concern, then you don't need to re-invent the wheel. Rooftop A/C's are proven, tried and true, purpose built machines that are located in the proper place. Every other type, with the possible exception of mini-splits are a compromise solution. You have to be willing to accept trade offs in order to save a couple hundred dollars. Your original question indicates that you want to do this once and do it right. Don't step over dollars to pick up dimes. You mentioned having the rooftop A/C framing installed, I would suggest planning/adding an additional frame so you can have a rooftop vent AND rooftop A/C. If you are planning a bathroom/shower that would be a good place to vent, or above stove top. Try to keep weight and balance in mind as you are planning so that permanent installs like tanks and A/C's etc. are somewhat balanced when trailer is empty. Here is a tool that will help.
https://www.engineersedge.com/calculato ... alance.htm
Just my opinion. McDave

• If you're undecided about which type of A/C unit to use, consider these points:
• 1)Power consumption vs cooling output-Your trailer , a 6x12, can be adequately cooled by a 5k btu A/C, if adequately insulated, or a 6-8k btu unit if not (my 4x8 gets really cold inside, even w/o insulation), and those units only draw 4.5 to 8 amps, whereas portable units (usually 10k btus, due to being less efficient) will draw close to 10 amps, and rooftop units require 11-15 amps (all power draw doubles on startup, for any type unit),
• 2)noise level when in use-A small window unit can be pretty quiet, especially if it is mounted in a sturdy wall, to limit vibration (+ the mechanism is outside the living space), a portable is noisier, because the compressor and moving parts are in the cabin with you, and the rooftop A/C can be even louder, because the whole roof becomes a "passive radiator" of sound,
  especially a metal roof w/o specific sound-deadening insulation.
• 3)placement of the unit-A small window unit can be put about anywhere, temporarily-mounted or a permanent installation, and can be located under or over other items, freeing-up space. A portable unit must be on the floor, so that will take up a significant area. A rooftop A/C certainly doesn't use floorspace, but it can be a hazard to items underneath (a plugged drain, or leak around the seal, can cause interior drippage).
• Additionally: I'll admit I'm biased towards the window units, because I've used many of them, and have one in my 4x8 trailer. My grandfather tried several portables, over the years, and none ever worked as well as window units, so he finally used them (admittedly, those were tried in the 70's). I have a 20ft travel trailer with a 13500 btu rooftop unit, that cools great, but draws so much amperage that I can't use the small microwave at the same time, and have to run the refrigerator on propane, to avoid tripping the breakers (my power supply is only 20 amps). Never had a leak from the rooftop unit, yet, but I've lived in apartments where the A/C was in the bathroom over the tub...one leaked quite a lot (that's probably why they're over the tub!).
• If your trailer was larger, like a 7x20, or 8x24, then the rooftop unit may be the the way to go, but for a 6x12, I'd use an 8k btu window unit, and insulate heavily (I didn't, and regret it). Whatever you choose to do, good luck on your build/conversion. I agree with McDave about using the spreadsheet to keep your balance in check; I used the one I found on this forum for my build, and it really helped.

[Iconfabul8]

The other thing you will experience with a rooftop unit in a small space,is problems getting rid of the humidity. Smaller units run long enough to condition the air(remove Agua) large ones turn off before they have a chance to get the job done. Might be something to consider depending on where you live.

[flboy]

The other thing you will experience with a rooftop unit in a small space,is problems getting rid of the humidity. Smaller units run long enough to condition the air(remove Agua) large ones turn off before they have a chance to get the job done. Might be something to consider depending on where you live.

Very true for Florida I can tell you from experience (short cycling as it is called here). No need for the standard 13,500 BTU's and a 3.5KW Generator to cool 72 sq. ft. (or even twice that for the matter) especially if it the trailer has insulation which I'd highly recommend (if no insulation... definitely get the biggest unit you can get on the roof). I have 8,000 BTU's cooling an 18*7 with 2ft V and it has no troubles at all in the summer in Florida and runs from ECO mode on a Honda 2000 Generator. It removes the humidity which is what you really want almost more than the cool here in Florida and on the East Coast (out west, not so much). The 6,500 BTU unit I had in there to originally did the job, but worked hard on the hottest of days to keep a 20 degree differential... I would have left it alone except for some reason, it did not like to start on the Generator's ECO mode and I didn't like the fact the generator couldn't spool down in normal run mode and just barely purr like I can now do with the 8,000 BTU. I think there is a more sophisticated soft start mechanism embodied in that unit for sure.

I do wish they still made 8,000 BTU Rooftop units... because then that would be the perfect scenario for smaller CTC's, especially from a ease build scenario and freeing up the cabinet... just stick it on the roof and call it done... but get the other hole for the vent. I looked hard for a new 8,000 BTU Roof unit for my previous build as I had seen them for sale in the past. I was told by the Camping World salesman at the time that the 8,000 BTU units did not sell well because , in addition to the smaller available market share and almost similar cost to the larger models, they were intended for the smaller RV's (< 18' footers )and it was more cost effective (no extra roof bracing, and etc.) and efficient to install regular Window units in cabinets as they do in many cases today (5,000 through 10,000 BTU's as needed .. the right size for the job as needed) . If you could find a good 8,000 BTU roof unit for the small CTC I'd say don't hesitate.

Bottom line is... one size and type does not fit all needs in all locations just like in your home. "Working on It" makes some great points. A lot of factors go into a decision like that . The only thing I'd say with any certainty is go with something other than a portable.. and especially a one hosed portable. They just don't do the job for many reasons inherent in their design and intended use. I learned that one from experience also in a 14"*7" CTC with 10,000 BTU portable. I replaced it with a 5,000 BTU window unit and it worked absolutely great! Was an easy install in the rear door also. Bounced down many roads for years with no issues. It only costed $149 which was the bonus... but not the decision driver. I have never figured out why the RV units cost so much more than the window units (same basic components.. different package).. But then again... put RV in front of the description and the price at least doubles... true with just about every appliance I can think of. Smaller market and economies of scale kick in I suppose.

I agree you will want an Maxxair or Fantastic Fan Vent on the roof, so if you decide on a roof mount AC unit to meet your needs, make sure to get the structure for another roof vent. I use that more than the AC itself since I camp year around in Florida and if I had to choose between the two... I'd go with the Maxxair/Fantastic Fan.

[McDave]

Sorry PrecisionLook612,
I didn't intend to turn this into yet another debate over Air Conditioners where we air our "feelings" and defend our decisions at all cost to include "I've heard"s and other Old Wives Tales about removing heat and not humidity. Humidity (water) is the vehicle by which heat travels and how refrigeration, regardless of size or configuration removes heat from the room. This is why they are rated by pints/hr that they are able to remove. Conversely, low humidity areas use the opposite means to cool by adding water to the air or "Swamp Coolers". As the moisture moves through the air it collects the heat and evaporates it to the outside. The physics involved do not cease to exist because they do not support a certain side of the argument. So, you can put that window shaker inside the cabin with you and tell yourself it is quieter than having all that machinery located outside, and that somehow 6000 or 8000 btu is equal to or greater than 13,500 btu, and that after you have done enough mods to deal with the drain water issues and using precious limited floor space, that it was all worth it, or you can do what the big boys do. Do you think Winnabago and Airstream wouldn't have A/Cs hanging out windows if it worked better or even cheaper ? Something to think about.

McDave

[Iconfabul8]

Well McDave, I have never been one to shy away from reproof and correction. So you are saying that a big Ac will remove the same amount of water, it just does it quicker. So as the temperature drops the humidity drops proportionally. I guess what I falsely believed is, I know that humid air can be cooled, I have been in climates that are cold (40-50 deg) and the humidity is very high. So I assumed an ac unit could cool humid air and that cycling it a few times would remove a little more water each time. But you are saying that any air that is sent through the coils will give up a calculated amount of water in proportion to the temperature drop. Well, I'm no hvac or physics expert. I guess I will have to defer to your logic and expertise.

[flboy]

Short cycling due to an oversized air conditioner is real. Just saying. That's the point.

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