I'm thinking of PMF because it offers great waterproof protection and an unlimited color variation. Do you have a build Journal? If so I would love to follow.Staryder61 wrote:Welcome clamlamp:
Great start.. you're moving right along..
I'm a first timer also.. so will be watching your build as we progress.. we are shooting for campable around April..
What are you planning for the exterior?
Good luck with the rest of your build....
It's currently 4 inches from the floor, is that considered too high with a mattress?KennethW wrote:Not to be a sad sack. But you may have wanted to move the door back and down to make is easier to get in. Down,so the bottom of the door don't cut into the back of your legs when sitting in the doorway. Back so you can set in the door and spin to lay down without scooting down in bed. I did the same thing.
2 would be better. 4 will work. You may want a pool noodle for the bottom of the door. Or a piece of 2 by lay inside the door if it is a problem. I was just pointing it out for others building to watch out for.clamlamp wrote:It's currently 4 inches from the floor, is that considered too high with a mattress?KennethW wrote:Not to be a sad sack. But you may have wanted to move the door back and down to make is easier to get in. Down,so the bottom of the door don't cut into the back of your legs when sitting in the doorway. Back so you can set in the door and spin to lay down without scooting down in bed. I did the same thing.
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Also on the door, the rule of thumb typically used is that you want the door sill to be no higher than about half the mattress thickness. That way the sill doesn't dig into the backs of your legs when sitting in the doorway.KCStudly wrote:
The method for setting door position is commonly referred to as "sit and spin". You can use your regular (home) bed to get an initial measurement, but it also helps to have a mock-up of your door frame. Basically you sit where your bottom will be when you are laying down, roll back to pull your legs in, and spin to where your head lands on the pillow. Having the door frame mocked up helps you decide on how wide to make the door so you aren't whacking your knees or having trouble swinging your feet through. Once you get an idea of where you like the door/mattress relationship to be, double/triple check that the door opening, with all of its trim, will clear where the fender needs to be.
2 would be better. 4 will work. You may want a pool noodle for the bottom of the door. Or a piece of 2 by lay inside the door if it is a problem. I was just pointing it out for others building to watch out for.
Our build journal is in my signature. Have fallen a little behind due to health issues and weather..
Finally a break in the weather, so started working on sealing the deck yesterday.. will get it finished this weekend and flip it. Then do the linoleum on the top side..
I understand what Kenneth is saying about the door..
How thick of a mattress will you be using?
This was brought to my attention on my first drawing,,,
I was planning on using 1/2" baltic birch on the floor above the osb, then using a 4 inch memory foam topper that I have lying around my house. So the floor that is 4 inches above the floor will be 1/2" inch below the mattress... but I know that memory foam collapses quite a bit so I may have to reconsider the thickness of my mattress.
I'm getting 5'x5' 1\2" baltic birch bbb quality for $22 and change a sheet so like $25 after CA Lumber tax and sales tax. How about where you are at?tony.latham wrote:I was planning on using 1/2" baltic birch on the floor above the osb, then using a 4 inch memory foam topper that I have lying around my house. So the floor that is 4 inches above the floor will be 1/2" inch below the mattress... but I know that memory foam collapses quite a bit so I may have to reconsider the thickness of my mattress.
How much are getting your 1/2" Baltic for?
If I build #4, I'm going to go with a sandwich sheathed in 1/4" subfloor plywood on both sides, supported by hard foam. I get my subfloor for about $21 a sheet and it's fine.
How's that 4" of memory foam feel on a hard floor? I'd suspect my hip might feel the floor. We've got 5" of high-density foam and 2" of memory foam. It makes for a deluxe bed. (Isn't that the primary reason for a teardrop?)
Tony
clamlamp wrote:I'm getting 5'x5' 1\2" baltic birch bbb quality for $22 and change a sheet so like $25 after CA Lumber tax and sales tax. How about where you are at?tony.latham wrote:I was planning on using 1/2" baltic birch on the floor above the osb, then using a 4 inch memory foam topper that I have lying around my house. So the floor that is 4 inches above the floor will be 1/2" inch below the mattress... but I know that memory foam collapses quite a bit so I may have to reconsider the thickness of my mattress.
How much are getting your 1/2" Baltic for?
If I build #4, I'm going to go with a sandwich sheathed in 1/4" subfloor plywood on both sides, supported by hard foam. I get my subfloor for about $21 a sheet and it's fine.
How's that 4" of memory foam feel on a hard floor? I'd suspect my hip might feel the floor. We've got 5" of high-density foam and 2" of memory foam. It makes for a deluxe bed. (Isn't that the primary reason for a teardrop?)
Tony
Ya i am worried about the memory foam only as well. I also have half inch kids mat floor foam at home if that doesnt work.
Tony, where do you get your foam at?
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