7x16x6.5 Featherlite Build

[featherliteCT1]

I went ahead and added another inch of polyiso-insulation to the floor. So now the floor has a 3 inches of insulation.

However, the extra inch of insulation had no effect on the temperature differential between the ceiling and the floor.

Happily, the temperature differential was solved by moving the 12v fan from the ceiling to the floor. Now the temperature differential hovers between zero and two degrees F.

[McDave]

Well that would make sense. Hot air wants to be at top, cold at bottom. It would be tough to displace the cold heavy air with warm light air. However, the warm air would be easily displaced by pumping the cold air up and would mix cold with warm for a more homogenized blend. Stratification can be tough to overcome if your intake is not located properly or cfm is not adequate.

McDave

[featherliteCT1]

[quote="McDave"] It would be tough to displace the cold heavy air with warm light air.


Mcdave,
Good points
I suspect that the fan blade gets a better bite into the colder dense air at the floor because the colder air has more mass into which the fan can bite. More mass means more air being pushed around. Sort of like the propeller of a boat spinning in dense water while on a lake compared to spinning in thin air while on a trailer.

[featherliteCT1]

Last night temperatures dropped to 0°F, so I slept in the trailer with my little 120 volt 1300 watt electric heater and with the 12 volt fan on. The heater and fan combination worked great. However, I noticed a lot of condensation on the windows and the aluminum decking on the rear ramp door. Actually, the condensation froze leaving a very thick frost.

As a part of my experiment, I previously installed a temporary false wall made out of 2 inch foam board at the rear of the trailer, about 1 inches away from the rear door, leaving a 1 inch gap between the foam board and the ramp door. I did not tape up the gaps between the seams. I also hung a double thickness of moving blankets on the inboard side of the foam board. I was hoping the blankets would minimize air leakage.

However, the foam board and moving blankets did not help the condensation problem at all, as far as I can tell. I think there was too much air leakage.

My next move will be to tape up the gaps in the seams of the foam board to stop air leakage.

I did notice that the only time condensation forms, is when I am in the trailer breathing. The the cold air by itself is not a source of moisture for condensation when I heat up the inside of the trailer.

[hankaye]

featherliteCT1, Howdy;

The bit you mentioned about you only seeing the condensation when you are in there breathing.
BINGO !!!
That's why as one who lives in an RV keeps one of the overhead vents "cracked" open. It allows
the warmer moister air to escape. Should you decide to do some cooking or heating with propane in
there you will also notice condensation. Along with a fan to circulate the warm/cool air to keep it
mixed this mobile housing unit has kept me warm for almost 7 years now as well as cool in the Summers.

hank

[featherliteCT1]

Thanks for the tips Hankaye. The next time I get a chance to sleep in the trailer, I will open a roof vent to see the difference in condensation.

[razorback]

This is the heater we use. Only difference ours is 240 watts. 18 X 24 size. mounted on the wall between cabin and galley by my wife's feet. on my side is a plug in thermostat.
We set the temp on 70 degress and the soft heat never varies more than 1 degree. I have 3 1/2 inches insul. in the floor, 1 1/2 inches in the ceiling, and 3/4 inches in the side walls. we crack a window on my side. Never had condensation. Temp at top of cabin vs bottom of cabin never more than two degrees.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Health-Rite- ... RYnU_JKsac

[McDave]

That looks pretty good razorback. Even a baseboard heater could be pretty effective at treating that air on the floor.

McDave

[featherliteCT1]

Thanks, Razorback,
I reviewed the heater and it looks like a good source of low, slow heat.

[featherliteCT1]

180110 Powermate Cap line.jpg (31.63 KiB) Viewed 4519 times

A few months ago, I purchased this Powermate 2000i generator from Walmart for $488. I tried to rig up an auxiliary fuel tank like flboy did with his Honda 2000 generator but I failed. Evidently, the Powermate (and the Yamaha equivalent) do not have fuel pumps like the Honda.

In order to add an auxiliary tank, I would have to raise the auxiliary tank to an elevation higher than the generator to induce gravity feed. I do not like that idea.

I did not want to risk destroying my original gas cap on the generator so I searched the local stores for a spare gas cap. The Yamaha gas cap is the only cap I could find that fit my Powermate generator. However, the Yamaha cap sells for about $38. After a long internet search, I was able to find a gas cap for the Powermate generator for $8 plus $8 shipping. I then spent about $20 for fittings and sealants.

However, the Powermate could not suck the gas from my auxiliary tank.

I now know that parts for the Powermate are a bit hard to find and that neither the Powermate nor the Yamaha generator has a fuel pump. However, the Yamaha has a fuel gauge but, to my knowledge, the Honda does not. A fuel gauge would be handy.

I am not sure if I will pay $1,000 for a Honda ... but I am sorely tempted.

[McDave]

Something funny going on there. You should be able to get siphon going even without a pump. Either an air leak or a no vent condition. Aux. tank should be vented but no vent at main tank. As motor uses fuel instead of air replacing fuel, fuel from aux tank should replace into main tank and air into aux tank.

McDave

[flboy]

Something funny going on there. You should be able to get siphon going even without a pump. Either an air leak or a no vent condition. Aux. tank should be vented but no vent at main tank. As motor uses fuel instead of air replacing fuel, fuel from aux tank should replace into main tank and air into aux tank.

McDave

I agree. I wasn't aware my Honda had a fuel pump.I just always assumed it was the siphon effect. It does have to be an airtight connection or it will not work. Also, the draw tube need to be in the bottom of the auxiliary tank. I boat motor tank will come like that.


I used Teflon tape on all the connections. The fitting you have in the gas cap... how is that installed. The seal there on the tank and on the hose is critical and the auxilary tank must be vented as already said.

[featherliteCT1]

Something funny going on there. You should be able to get siphon going even without a pump. Either an air leak or a no vent condition. Aux. tank should be vented but no vent at main tank. As motor uses fuel instead of air replacing fuel, fuel from aux tank should replace into main tank and air into aux tank.

McDave

Thanks for the reply.
I too was surprised that the generator could not suck gas from the auxiliary tank.

I made sure that there was no leak by using gas resistant thread sealant plus a gas resistant product called "Seal All". I bench tested the seal by holding my hand over the gas cap, with the tube attached and blowing into the tube ... no leaks.

I then completely filled the generator with gas up to the lip until the gas almost overflowed and the generator ran for a short while before it quit. I also made sure that the intake end of the plastic tube was completely submerged below the surface of the gas. The generator was able to suck gas up the tube for only about three inches.


With an almost full tank, I also ran the generator with the original cap but with the vent closed .. and the generator ran for about 15 minutes before it quit.

[featherliteCT1]

Flboy,

My "auxiliary tank" was an open quart glass jar with no lid. The tube hung deep into the gasoline. Consequently, I know I had no leaks and I had sufficient "venting".

I cannot imagine why the generator would not suck gas more than a few inches up the tube except that the generator itself could not create enough suction for the entire height of the lift.
.

[hankaye]

featherliteCT1, Howdy;

Having to supplement my fuel tank on occasion way back in the past, I found that
the connecting hose from source to target container needs to be full of liquid and
any amount of air in the tube/hose will stop the flow ... that said are you ensuring
that the tube/hose is full of liquid ???

hank