pchast wrote:I would not leave the connector there. Can it be mounted above the bumper/hitch somehow?
Hi Pete,
There is no place that I can think of. Looking for ideas. Thanks for chiming in.
pchast wrote:I would not leave the connector there. Can it be mounted above the bumper/hitch somehow?
pchast wrote:I would not leave the connector there. Can it be mounted above the bumper/hitch somehow?
gudmund wrote:look like some ground clearance could be gained by sliding the connector side ways and up the trailer hitch either way. Also, depending on what size of ball will be used - these 3 way receivers can cause problems when being used when one of the balls is in the down position - it can be a bottoming out point of contact, especially when going in/out of parking lots.
gudmund wrote:look like some ground clearance could be gained by sliding the connector side ways and up the trailer hitch either way. Also, depending on what size of ball will be used - these 3 way receivers can cause problems when being used when one of the balls is in the down position - it can be a bottoming out point of contact, especially when going in/out of parking lots.
gudmund wrote:the electrical hook-up is looking good now but you may not be able to use the 3-way being the use of the 2 inch ball may mean the opposite ball ends up bottoming out. You would just have to use a receiver with the single ball setup in the ball size you are using.
Thank you! Feel better now too.pchast wrote:Looks good now.
daveesl77 wrote:I have a Kia Sedona, which is the Hundai Entourage. I have a v6 and 3500# rating. I agree completely with the location of the 7 pin on the car side, as with the tongue weight, you will get a substantial dip, primarily when entering something like a driveway where one side is higher than the other. When that happens you have a good chance of tearing the connector off or tearing out wires (I know from experience).
My camper weighs about 1,400# fully loaded, but we have often run with the total load getting pretty high between the camper and the van cargo. Only real problem I see is the windage factor, which isn't really a problem, just don't expect very good gas mileage and can have a serious effect on speed. The extended tongue will make it tow and back easier, but it does shift a substantial amount of load forward (leverage). Be aware of this when hooking up. I try to keep my tow vehicle ride height drop to no more than 1-2", if possible.
dave
mtbikernate wrote:I had a similar scenario when I got my teardrop last spring. I bought a teardrop from a small manufacturer built to order.
I got trailer brakes on it, even though the trailer is built to weigh less than 2k lbs loaded, because my primary tow vehicle is a subaru xv crosstrek, at least for now.
The builder recommended an installer (at a uhaul facility) that he has had positive experience with. I had a hitch and 4 flat already, but wanted a brake controller and 7 pin connector.
I called ahead to make sure he had time, and brought my car in. He gave me the same bs line about "if you are towing somwthing big enough to need trailer brakes, you should not be pulling it with this car."
Except the trailer and its load falls eithin acceptable margins and I just want the trailer brakes for safety factor. He was not okay with this, and also seemed put off that he would have to run and splice all the wires. I think that was the major reason. Anyway, I could not get the brake controller done for my first trip (from Indianapolis, IN to Sedona, AZ) and just haven't bothered yet. The trailer builder put a 4 flat connector on for me, so I have both. I have pulled the trailer all over and it has been fine, but I still intend to do get the brake controller installed, and I like some of the recommendations here.
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