Propane Plumbing

[AKcargo]

I'm sorry if I'm asking a question that has already been answered, but I have been searching and only finding different answers. I need to plumb my cargo 6x12 for propane from the tongue. I have a two burner ramble wood cooktop on the front wall, a 16k suburban furnace under the portside window, and a propane fridge all in the cabinets in this picture.


I bought 3/8 copper and flare fittings for everything, but now I'm wondering if thats the way to go. I have a 3/8 flare bulkhead fitting to enter the from wall from outside, then tees at each appliance inside the cabinet. My logic is that if I have a leak, I will be turning the system off at the tank outside, and won't need an extra $15 valve (plus the extra fittings as possible leak sources) at each appliance. I found a chart showing that a 10' run of 3/8 tubing will flow 49k btus, so I should be good, unless I decide to add an on demand water heater, correct? I read in the propane section that lots of people run black pipe outside, then make penetrations at each appliance, but that seems to be on teardrops or where the gas needs to get a long way. I'm thinking this doesn't apply to me because everything is in one concentrated area. Thanks for the help -Aaron

[McDave]

In my mind 3/8" copper is plenty. The only time it could be a problem is if all gas appliances were running wide open simultaneously. Not impossible, but not likely. I think that each appliance may already have its own shutoff. Pretty sure the reefer and furnace do, but at any rate shut offs can come in handy if you need to service one and still use the others.
You can use black pipe or copper to build a manifold style system. Compression or flare fittings are pretty reliable if done correctly.

McDave

[AKcargo]

Cool, thanks for the reply, I started in on it today with my 3/8 soft copper and flares. I think I'll just use an idea I saw somewhere and tape some flare plugs to the appliances in case of a future problem and call it good.

[Andrew Herrick]

Lots of people will debate black iron vs copper for ages. My understanding of the matter is that most mainstream RV's, which are much larger than our tiny trailers, use 3/8-inch soft copper for almost all appliances, and that the underbody distribution system is often black iron because it's exposed to the elements. Sounds to me like you're doing it right. I'd take your finished system to an RV tech and have him to a pressure and leak test, though!