TTT Build

[nik1093]

OK, so I've had some time to come up with a new sleeping arrangement for my camper. A 70" bed would have been a few inches shy of being comfortable. I did end up widening the camper 6", but only at the back, where the bed is. The sides of the camper will taper from 6' at the front, to 6'6" at the back. Visually, it's a pretty subtle taper but definitely would make a difference when it comes to sleeping in the camper. It will make the construction of the camper a little bit more difficult, but not too bad.
I had a chance to visit an RV dealer this past week and I got a lot of great info from the tiny trailers they had on display. Some of the models I explored were the TAB and TAG, Intech MaxFlyer, a Taxa Tiger Moth, a MyPod, and a little larger Park Liner. It was a very informative trip. The TAB was closest to my size and layout, although it was a little larger in all directions. It did have a 72" long bed, but it was laid out longitudinally, so it allowed your feet to hang of the edge. The interior was 70" at its tallest, but I didn't feel encroached upon by that height, I was afraid I might.
I made a new model to reflect on the widened design. The paint job is courtesy of my girlfriend. She said she'd help paint the full size one too.

Here is the revised shape, and the door on the correct side. I havn't finished building the interior in CAD but once I do I will get that uploaded.

[nik1093]

It's been a couple weeks since I've posted, but I have made some really good progress on the design and taken my first steps on the actual build (minus the trailer). I had mentioned I was going to make the camper taper so that it got a little wider at the rear. I wanted to get an idea of how this would look full scale so I projected the sides onto cardboard and cut them out.




Next I made a wood frame to get the correct size of the floor and set it all on the trailer to get an idea of how it would look all together.



I really like how it came out. It gave the motivation to start building the floor while figuring out the wall construction and process. I would like to make a router template that could be used for both sides with window cutouts as well. I found windows from a 2001 Peterbilt sleeper cab that I am hoping to use on the camper. Semi's have much more interesting windows than common RV's. They also fit the rounded aesthetic. They will be here next Monday, so that's when I can get a more definitive size for the cutouts. I ordered a custom door from Challenger door after reading so much about them on here. It will be 59" tall and 21" wide with a screen door.

For the floor, I am using 3/8 BCX plywood on the bottom, 2x4's and 1.5" insulation in the middle and 5/8 BCX plywood on top.




I dadoed out lap joints the make the 2x4's sit flush in the floor.





The floor is all screwed together, I just need to cut out the wheel wells but I am waiting on a flush router bit I ordered. Then comes Henry's asphalt emulsion to seal it all up.

[nik1093]

I received the windows I ordered out of a 2001 Peterbilt sleeper cab. They are awesome! The bottoms crank out but one is missing a screen. Something I will have to fabricate later.

Since they are such a strange shape, and I want to make a CNC template, I had to get the shape of the windows on the CAD file perfectly. I was able to use major dimensions to get close, but the curved upper edge was not singular radius. Once I got close, I laser cut cardboard templates to fit around the window and adjusted the dimensions each time accordingly. Eventually, I got the file dead on.

Now I could start making the template for the sides. It is built around certain items and fixtures that are mounted to the wall. The CNC cutter I am planning on using has a 4x4 bed so I will need to piece together the templates after they are cut. Some of the support is to help with that attachment. I will be drawing in tabs to help reference the pieces to each other.

[nik1093]

Here is the template model with the reference tabs drawn in. I hope to be cutting the templates Friday.

[nik1093]

I have finally come up with a name and logo design I like for the project. I am calling it Trace for a few reasons. The router templates I am planning on using will need to be "traced" with the router, which is the basis of this project, when my girlfriend and I go on camping trips we "trace" our route on an atlas, and when I make an advertisement for this thing the tagline can be "Leave no Trace."

[swoody126]

it'z always fun when monikers have roots/meaning(s) AND cause others to THINK about them

sw

[nik1093]

Last night I was able to use the schools 4x4 CNC Router. I used five cut files to make the template. I finished cutting out the template, and today I will screw and glue it all together. This template is able to be used for both sides, with slight modifications to accept a window instead of the door. I have superficial supports where the door frame is that will be removed on the actual side, but will allow me to line up the window on the opposite wall.





It came together like a big puzzle.

[nik1093]

So it's been a while since I have posted any progress but that doesn't mean my camper didn't progress.

I finished gluing up the template and it went together really nice with biscuits at the joints.



Then I started gluing up 5x5 Baltic Birch panels to make the interior wall structure. I found the 3/4 Baltic Birch for $33 a sheet which was comparable to the 3/4 plywood at Lowes so I opted for the BB sheets which were flatter and had a better core for just a couple dollars more. I could also use some of the cutoffs for some features in the interior. To join the pieces of ply I cut a slot for a 1" spline between the boards.



I rough cut to the shape of the camper, and the cut outs for insulation. These would be cleaned up with a router and the template I cut on the Shopbot.





Then I transported the pieces back to my garage to do the routing. The whole process taught me a few things that I should have done differently. Gluing together the sheets before routing was a very cumbersome process and near impossible to move as sheets. The template went together much more smoothly so I should have traced them as individual templates rather than one large template.



I started routing and after a few hours I had both sides cut out and a window test fitted.









I used the "heavy things in the garage" technique to glue the inner wall to the plywood frame. Next step is to route the pockets for the roof supports, insulate, then add the exterior ply.



I also received my fiberglass and epoxy so I have been figuring out the process to that application as well.

[KCStudly]

Great job so far, keep up the good work!

I also received my fiberglass and epoxy so I have been figuring out the process to that application as well.

First step, purchase and learn how to properly wear a good 3M half mask respirator with vapor cartridges... and always wear it. (emphasis on the period) I like the 7000 series and prefer the 3M branded products; the Moldex branded ones don't seem to fit me as well. Learn how to disassemble and clean it using dedicated sanitary towelettes. I keep the cartridges in a sealed bag when not in use, the activated charcoal keeps better when sealed.

Second step, disposable nitrile gloves, buy the big boxes.

Third, I like to wear Tyvek disposable arm sleeves. (I save these from when I have to wear them at work, rather than throwing them away, but they are cheap and you can usually get away with wearing them a few times.) Michael/Atomic77/Astroliner likes to use baby powder to close the pores up and keep sanding dust from getting itchy, but I prefer the sleeves.

Forth, a good shop vac with a fine dust particle filter, preferably with a cyclone separator up stream.

Norm says, "There is no other more important safety rule... (points to his glasses)...than to wear THESE... safety glasses."

Disposable mixing cups (I re-purpose DD ice coffee cups).

If your system has ratio pumps available, such as West System, get them, but don't trust them. They are very handy for dispensing w/o waste or mess, but invest in a small digital gram scale for best accuracy. I write the resin and mixed weights for one to a few pump batch sizes on a paper plate (a handy ratio chart) and use it to keep potential drips off of the scale. Zero your cup and the paper plate first. I don't pump directly over the scale, but rather check progress against my ratio chart after each pump addition resin, and then again after hardener... I usually have to add a drop or three for each pump. Don't bother listing the hardener weight separately, that just adds confusion and math. Resin weight and final mixed weight keeps things simple.

[nik1093]

Great job so far, keep up the good work!

I also received my fiberglass and epoxy so I have been figuring out the process to that application as well.

First step, purchase and learn how to properly wear a good 3M half mask respirator with vapor cartridges... and always wear it. (emphasis on the period) I like the 7000 series and prefer the 3M branded products; the Moldex branded ones don't seem to fit me as well. Learn how to disassemble and clean it using dedicated sanitary towelettes. I keep the cartridges in a sealed bag when not in use, the activated charcoal keeps better when sealed.

Second step, disposable nitrile gloves, buy the big boxes.

Third, I like to wear Tyvek disposable arm sleeves. (I save these from when I have to wear them at work, rather than throwing them away, but they are cheap and you can usually get away with wearing them a few times.) Michael/Atomic77/Astroliner likes to use baby powder to close the pores up and keep sanding dust from getting itchy, but I prefer the sleeves.

Forth, a good shop vac with a fine dust particle filter, preferably with a cyclone separator up stream.

Norm says, "There is no other more important safety rule... (points to his glasses)...than to wear THESE... safety glasses."

Disposable mixing cups (I re-purpose DD ice coffee cups).

If your system has ratio pumps available, such as West System, get them, but don't trust them. They are very handy for dispensing w/o waste or mess, but invest in a small digital gram scale for best accuracy. I write the resin and mixed weights for one to a few pump batch sizes on a paper plate (a handy ratio chart) and use it to keep potential drips off of the scale. Zero your cup and the paper plate first. I don't pump directly over the scale, but rather check progress against my ratio chart after each pump addition resin, and then again after hardener... I usually have to add a drop or three for each pump. Don't bother listing the hardener weight separately, that just adds confusion and math. Resin weight and final mixed weight keeps things simple.

KC, Thank you for all the advice. I am using the Raka system. 127 resin and 350 hardener. I also got their pumps but they pump one to one so two pumps to one pump for the correct ratio. It doesn’t mention a weight ratio. You’re saying mixing it 2:1 volume as best I can and weigh the resin than the whole mixture?
I have a North half mask that I plan to use for the big job. The filters are suppose to be for particle and vapor and solvents and all that good stuff.
Do you wear the Tyvek sleeves when applying or just when sanding?
I saw a good thread on the process when I was first researching fiberglass and epoxy but I can’t seem to locate it now. It might have been your post.
One question I did have was where the fiberglass meets the window or door openings, do I trim that flush or wrap it inside the door/window frame? I would imagine flush because all the window sealing will be done on the exterior wall.
Thanks again, Nik




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[KCStudly]

It doesn’t mention a weight ratio.

West System lists a ratio range in the tech info available on their website, so I was able to look it up. There is a small acceptable range based on weight. It is my understanding that they convert to volume and size the pumps accordingly, but the chemical spec is actually based on weight. If Raka does not publish this openly, I would suggest contacting them (it will likely be different from West). the pumps can inadvertently be short stroked, or you could accidentally loose count.

I do wear the sleeves while mixing and applying, in case I drag an arm though my work or have a spill/splash. (For mixing and applying really small 3-min epoxy jobs, like filling very small pits, I might skip it sometimes.) I always use them while sanding; sometimes the epoxy is still "green", so I just don't want to get sensitive to long term exposure.

Search for "flock edge" (or "flox"). My most recent posts on TPCE build thread show this technique for getting a crisp edge. Basically you router a chamfer in your wooden edge (1/4 to 5/16 is plenty); temporarily dam one side with a scrap slat of thin ply covered with packing tape as a release agent; pack the chamfer with "thick" (resin thickened with bonding filler to "peanut butter consistency"); let that cure; pull the dam; sand back flush on the rough side and scuff the good side. Now you can lay up the cloth past the edge; trim back close to the edge while wet; and final trim/scrape/sand after it's cured. I find that if you get it in the leathery stage you can zip the excess of easily with a serrated steak knife. If you get a lot of spikes sticking out, I prefer to hit the rough edge with a small paint scrapper then just sand back with a small hand block. Do the jamb in a separate operation. I used the "poor man's pre preg" (PMPP) method for the long skinny strips and overhead applications on my door jambs (and underside lip of my hatch where the seal will go). That method uses plastic sheeting as a pattern making template and pallet to assist with laying up; cutting to precise shape; transporting; and applying with relatively high degree of accuracy.

A quick search for PMPP in my build thread found this example (linky) where I was setting up to do some tricky bits around the rim of my tongue box. Sorry, I don't have time at the moment to look for the door jambs, but they were much easier being merely straight strips. I did the door edges on TPCE somewhere around the 230-247 pg mark.