7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[Rainier70]

Thank you. I looked all over Amazon, but apparently I didn't use the magic words that they had it hidden under!

[flboy]

Thank you. I looked all over Amazon, but apparently I didn't use the magic words that they had it hidden under!

Yes.. I couldn't find it at first either , but I just searched the internet in general for 12VDC connectors and I found on some specialty website.. then I used the description "Battery Minder EZ Connector" and voilà! It is tough when you know what you want but they have descriptions that are not what you'd expect them to be.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

... or ya could look for trolling motor plug-in ...

hank

[John61CT]

Yes for high amps, or Andersons, more standard.

I wouldn't put more tgan 10-12A through SAE

[flboy]

Yes for high amps, or Andersons, more standard.

I wouldn't put more tgan 10-12A through SAE

For sure... My Macerator is 7A and so would be an auxiliary 100W solar panel (input). These are the two main reasons I added the connectors. The other is to power my HAM Radio outside. It will take about 9A when transmitting full power. So all is good. :-)

[flboy]

I orderded a 100W solar panel and a 10A controller which I will make portable to be moved around on wires so when I am parked in partial shade or etc., I can have one full 100W panel chasing sunlight around tbe camp at the ideal angle. The apprx. 7A for the better part of the day will cover fridge and fan use during the day so whatever light I get on the 500W fixed array will go 100% to nightime usage recovery. I decided this would be more useful than another 200W of fixed panels subject to the same shade. I can use it for other things as well besides just camping. If I am camping in full sun, I wont need the extra capacity.

I will edit with some pics when I build it up with a stand. Going to basically just make some legs to prop it up on and set the angle. Will need to anchor as well if windy. It will plug into either one of the two 12vdc SAE connecters I installed last weekend.

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[featherliteCT1]

What brand of solar panel did you purchase and how much did it cost?

[flboy]

What brand of solar panel did you purchase and how much did it cost?

This is what I ordered. I ordered this one in particular due to the slim profile. This will fit and store under the loft bed frame in my CTC so it is easy to get to when I need to use it. I am mounting the charge controller underneath the panel so you can just connect directly to any SLA battery and it will also keep the water off the controller in rain. Going to rainproof the controller.


HQST 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (Slim Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Y74SG4/re ... ZAbE0CZ2M6


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[John61CT]

Controller should go close to the bank.

The panel wires need to be short or thick if low voltage (under 30V).

If you want thin and long, serialize the panels to double the voltage, and get a good but cheap MPPT controller to handle it.

[flboy]

Controller should go close to the bank.

The panel wires need to be short or thick if low voltage (under 30V).

If you want thin and long, serialize the panels to double the voltage, and get a good but cheap MPPT controller to handle it.

Most true in general. The 12 Gage wires I will use can handle the 6-7 A just fine with minor losses at 20' (about 0.45V loss in this case at max current).

Ideally, as you said, you want to minimize current (and related losses) for longer wire runs so you'd use a 24VDC or a 48VDC configuration of panels with the voltage to current conversion taking place and driven through the shortest wire run between the controller and batteries.

Since I have only one panel, 12VDC configuration is the only choice here. That being the case and given it is one panel, it makes no significant difference which end the controller is on with 12ga wire selected. With the controller at either end, it will be relatively the same current levels (within ~ 2A) due to the max panel voltage of 18.5VDC and then converting to ~13.5VDC regulated.

At the end of the day, this is just a small supplemental panel so the 3.7% efficiency hit I take for where the controller is located it is an acceptable trade-off for the utility. I specifically want a portable panel/Solar DC charger set up to be able to just attach it to any SLA battery and trickle/slow charge up to ~6A or 7A without having to dangle the controller around at the point of use and/or hook it up each time. It will be secure and permanently attached under the panel with just 2 wires output with an SAE connection ready to connect to a battery bank up to 20' away.

[featherliteCT1]

What brand of solar panel did you purchase and how much did it cost?

This is what I ordered. I ordered this one in particular due to the slim profile. This will fit and store under the loft bed frame in my CTC so it is easy to get to when I need to use it. I am mounting the charge controller underneath the panel so you can just connect directly to any SLA battery and it will also keep the water off the controller in rain. Going to rainproof the controller.


HQST 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (Slim Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Y74SG4/re ... ZAbE0CZ2M6


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That’s a good price on that solar panel. I look forward to seeing how you rig up the controller onto the back of the panel.

[John61CT]

Controller should go close to the bank.

Since I have only one panel, 12VDC configuration is the only choice here.

That's unfortunate. For others, there are many reasons to seek out higher-voltage panels if you can snag a good price.

The nominal 12V ones (actually 17-22Voc) are much more limiting.

Of course a folding "suitcase" setup give you the opportunity to series a pair doubling volts.


> That being the case and given it is one panel, it makes no significant difference which end the controller is on with 12ga wire selected.

Not strictly true. Ideally a good SC is compensating voltage according to bank temperature, on better units with a separate dedicated sensor wire. Otherwise with an internal sensor measuring ambient only, so being in the same space even more important.

Also as long as your input voltage is over the minimum to start the SC, a good one will adjust to the V drop and keep output charging V at your selected Absorb setpoint. Especially with a dedicated voltage sensor wire, which an excellent SC setup will have.

With a long run between SC and and the bank, voltage at the bank will be unknown to the SC.

> ~13.5VDC regulated

That is **way** too low, I hope that's a Float setting?

Your setup your choice, just make sure to put your ammeter at the bank to verify output matches the bank's mfg profile specs.

Maybe when you replace / upgrade you can do an A/B comparison and see what a huge difference small adjustments can make.

[flboy]

I am familiar with how the SC's work, battery specs, optimization and etc.. This portable solar/charger is not intended, nor is it at the price point to be the ideal charging system or replace a primary system. It is a trade off no doubt between perfection and good enough. I just plan on moving it around to catch a few rays and supplement when the primary solar charger permanently mounted, with thermocouple and MPPT controller programmed for the battery specs. is in shade, or if I want to use it to power my radios in the field, or charge etc..


Edit.... John.. you seem to know a lot about batteries. My intention all along has been to swap out the cheap 12VDC Marine - Deep Cycle batteries I have and go with qty. 4 6V true deep cycle batteries just before I hit the road for many months next year. I am somewhat cost conscious and do not need the best, so I am fine with SLA batteries and have room for 4 batteries (group 29C size). What brand /size would be the best bang for the buck? I have 3 12VDC batteries now with 375aH total.. and I'd like to improve that capacity also to >400aH. Thoughts?

[flboy]

I made legs that swing out of PVC and tuck under for travel/storage. The Solar Charger (SC) is just mounted with 3M 2 sided tape and I screwed on a handle for easy carry. I still need to hook up the wires and add fuses, but this is the idea anyhow. I'll add pics of the storage in the CTC when I add the straps. This will fit perfectly between the loft bed slats. I will only be pulling it out if I happen to be parked in mostly shade since my permanent 500W is more than enough in good sun. This 100W will supplement for the fridge and then some when the main solar bank is blocked part of the day or etc. by trees. I can chase the sun around the campsite some this way. Still have the generator, but I built this with other motives also.

I also can grab and go with this if I go tent camping and/or field day with the radios. I am going to get a small SLA or a Yeti Goal Zero (or similar device with inverter built in) that I can take with me for other activities. In any case, this is a nice, cheap little solar power source albeit not 100% efficient when used with a longer cord on the output of the SC. I will make a short battery cable and swap it when using it for other activities since the battery will be portable also and can sit under the collector next to the charger.

I am thinking I am going to take a piece of clear plastic shower curtain type materiel and just make a "curtain" over the SC. I won't be using this in rain, but in case I get caught off guard. The collector will protect it for the most part given it will be tilted a lot or flat most of the time, but a small curtain will keep water from dripping on the SC in any case.










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[flboy]

Hooked up controller. It was defective. New one will be here Monday with a 30ft 10ga solar cable. Will try again then.



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