Karebru wrote:Reasonably priced... There's no limit to the amount of money someone who thinks that, "I must have the very best" can spend on home appliances!
Amen to that... sometimes good, is good enough and gets you on the road!



Karebru wrote:Reasonably priced... There's no limit to the amount of money someone who thinks that, "I must have the very best" can spend on home appliances!
Karebru wrote:Don't want the heated air mixing with the cooling air...Makes sense.![]()
Sounds like I'm on the right track, though. Thanks, Don.
Between the narrow windows I'm ordering, and a compact, 5,000 BTU AC mounted that way, I should be able to get away without cutting any 16" o.c. framing members.
That would be a beautiful thing.
flboy wrote:Amen to that... sometimes good, is good enough...
Joel.brian wrote:Which AC unit did you settle on? Did it fit between the studs? If so I’d be interested in what model. I’m really trying to avoid cutting the frame also.
McDave wrote:Joel.brian wrote:Which AC unit did you settle on? Did it fit between the studs? If so I’d be interested in what model. I’m really trying to avoid cutting the frame also.
Want to avoid cutting studs? Easy installation, guaranteed to do the job? 3 little words to live by,
" Rooftop Air Conditioner"
works every time.
McDave
Joel.brian wrote:
True! I like my Maxxfan up there though and most of my camping is off grid with no generator so I’m trying to stick with something small and inexpensive like a wall unit for the few times I do use it
flboy wrote:Joel, another option is to build a side install like Karebru and then make or buy small flip up doors between the studs for venting since AC is not used on the road and can open when parked.
The stud cutting in his solution and mine is to accomdate a certain type of vent cover that does not leak in water when driving in rain, but if you use a solid cover.. just prop them open when stopped. I could see that working nicely... and no stud cutting. Just find some 15" keyed doors like the put on RV's. Seen those on Ebay cheap.
flboy wrote:Joel, another option is to build a side install like Karebru and then make or buy small flip up doors between the studs for venting since AC is not used on the road and can open when parked.
Redardless of where you put it, you will need to find a way to isolate the intake air from the exhaust air. In a closed space that is vented, if they are not isolated, you may just be circulating a good part of the hot exhaust air back in. The AC may work some, but the efficiency will be poor.Joel.brian wrote:flboy wrote:Joel, another option is to build a side install like Karebru and then make or buy small flip up doors between the studs for venting since AC is not used on the road and can open when parked.
I like this idea a lot. What if I to put it in the top of the v-nose and build it into an upper cabinet looking thing above my kitchen sink and counter area. That way it would blow to the rear and also the entire upper cabinet would be a big exhaust with 2 of those 15” keyed doors and sealed off from the cabin.
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flboy wrote:Redardless of where you put it, you will need to find a way to isolate the intake air from the exhaust air. In a closed space that is vented, if they are not isolated, you may just be circulating a good part of the hot exhaust air back in. The AC may work some, but the efficiency will be poor.
So if you can design something with the blue foam board to do that in the upper part of the Vnose, it would work. I can think of a way to do that, but it would require making a plenum out of blue foam for the intake, or maybe the exhaust if that would be easier.
That is true, but the end is outside and not contained. I think that is what makes the difference. I am not familiar with the through the wall type, but they must have intake and exhaust out the backside which extends outside minimally.Joel.brian wrote:flboy wrote:Redardless of where you put it, you will need to find a way to isolate the intake air from the exhaust air. In a closed space that is vented, if they are not isolated, you may just be circulating a good part of the hot exhaust air back in. The AC may work some, but the efficiency will be poor.
So if you can design something with the blue foam board to do that in the upper part of the Vnose, it would work. I can think of a way to do that, but it would require making a plenum out of blue foam for the intake, or maybe the exhaust if that would be easier.
OK, that makes sense, I guess I’ll just have to do more research on where the exhaust and intake areas of the window AC units are. Another user is using one of the “through the wall” designs, it doesn’t look like there needs to be a separation for that kind.
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