Wiring Diagram Input

[corc]

First time poster here, planning my first teardrop build. Currently working through the electrical system requirements and hoping to get some input to make sure I'm on the right track.

Here's my wiring diagram thus far:



I don't have all of the exact parts worked out yet, but here's the rough idea:

(1) Shore Power Adapter || NOCO GCP1 12 Amp 125V AC -- http://a.co/ajvaiyD
(1) Battery Charger || NOCO Genis GEN1 10 Amp 1-Bank -- http://a.co/41fPhCE
(1) Battery || Universal 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM -- http://a.co/0uxdAmi
(1) Master Switch || BEP 701 -- http://a.co/8NOPPLM
(1) Fuse Panel || Blue Sea Systems ST Bade ATO/ATC 6-Circuit w/Negative -- http://a.co/ckIJ6Xe
(2) 12v Outlet || TBD
(2) Reading Lights || Acegoo 12V Reading Lights -- http://a.co/iWnDuNl
(2) Dome Lights || Obeaming 12V 3" LED Puck Lights -- http://a.co/2oMkdNT
(2) Porch Lights || Dream Lighting LED Awning Light -- http://a.co/26rJGYC
(2) Galley Lights || TBD
(2) Water Pump || Seaflo Water Pressure Pump 12V 1.2 GPM -- http://a.co/9JJuOV4
(3) USB Outlets || TBD - 2x 2.1 Amp -- http://a.co/eRcGLmC (maybe)
(1) Vent Fan || Fan-Tastic Fan 2250 -- http://a.co/4M9tJHh

And a general summary...

Looking to use the 13 Amp shore power hookup for charging at home and rare occasions where we might end up at a site with electrical hookup. 120V GFCI outlets would only be available in these scenarios. I may shuffle some of the circuits based on physical location in the teardrop, but overall it's a pretty low power build, all LEDs, no appliances. Highest individual power draw is expected from the water pump and vent fan, with USB charging possibly high draw but unlikely to be using all ports at once. All of the cabin overhead and reading lights I'm looking at have built-in switches, so I purposefully left those switches out of the diagram.

Am I on the right track here overall? Any recommendations/changes/opinions/things missing?

Additionally, what's the best method of splitting the shore power to the 120V outlets and battery charger when connected?

And finally, a very divisive question, do I need to ground any of this or is floating ground fine in this setup?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!



-Andrew

[GuitarPhotog]

You need individual fuses on each 12VDC circuit.

You can ground, or float your 12VDC circuits. You MUST (by NEMA building code) ground your 120VAC circuits so there is no chance of the trailer body or chassis becoming hot.

I don't understand your question about splitting the 120VAC? You can just wire the 12VDC charger/converter in parallel.

My $0.02 worth

<Chas>

[pchast]

The 40 amp fuse/breaker belongs right at the battery.

[KTM_Guy]

Your diagram is almost my build to the tee.

I am just past the 20 amp fuse adding a GFCI that the Noco will plug into and will be in the tongue box. Then daisy chain the other two outlets off the GFCI. Don't daisy chain one GFCI off another GFCI. And you do need to run a ground to each.

I have 12v outlets in the cabin and galley that share with the USB on the same fuse. Not a big chance that both would be used at the same time. And most of the 12v things I would use are not a big draw. Mostly battery chargers for cameras.

I used 16ga and some 18ga wire for lighting and it's still over kill. I used the same light in the cabin and think it's great. I also used the the same porch light but in the galley mounted on the hatch X2. I used the same light but with the single LED strip for my porch light. I also put PWM's on them so I can dim them. When remote camping I like just enough light to not trip on something.

Any reason the ground from the battery charger goes to the fuse block instead of the battery? Those Noco are smart chargers and may not like being connected like that.

Looks good as is though.

Todd

[corc]

Thanks all!

Chas - There will be individual fuses on each circuit, I just didn't indicate the amps for each at the fuse panel but will add that soon. These will likely be 10A fuses on most of the circuits, not seeing a need for more than that and could possibly go lower. I forgot to add to the diagram, but the 120VAC circuits will be ground back through the shore power ground, which will always be tested prior to use. Is that an appropriate setup or is there another way? For splitting the 120VAC, the NOCO GP1 provides just a standard three prong outlet that the battery charger plugs in to. Do I just get a three-outlet adapter with one to the charger, and the other two running to the GFCI outlets for simplicity?

Pete - I've been largely working off the diagram below that I've seen floating around, but I have seen it both ways. Is this to prevent toasting the switch and/or myself when flipping the switch?



Todd - Thanks for the input, glad I'm not alone in my design. Noted on the GFCI chaining, does the grounding solution mentioned above in response to Chas make sense? Are your galley lights dimmable and do you think they're overkill for porch lights? I've already ordered those porch lights, but haven't ordered galley lights yet so I can always switch things around. The ground in the diagram is based off the diagram above, but again, I've seen it both ways and just wasn't sure what the pros/cons of each approach would be.

[KTM_Guy]

Thanks all!




Todd - Thanks for the input, glad I'm not alone in my design. Noted on the GFCI chaining, does the grounding solution mentioned above in response to Chas make sense? Are your galley lights dimmable and do you think they're overkill for porch lights? I've already ordered those porch lights, but haven't ordered galley lights yet so I can always switch things around. The ground in the diagram is based off the diagram above, but again, I've seen it both ways and just wasn't sure what the pros/cons of each approach would be.

In that digram it shows a converter/charger. Most of those do not have the smart charging like the Genius chargers do. To be safe I would hook up the charge per Noco's instructions, or call them to confirm. Yes I have my galley and porch lights on dimmers. I want to have a lot of light for cooking and working in the galley, but if we are just sitting out at night I like it very dim, just enough so you don't trip on something. When it is dark you don't need much light. But on full power the single strip will give more than enough light to setup if getting to camp after dark. I have a small 12v battery like 1.5 AH that I use to test the lights. Do the same with the lights you have and see how you like the brightness. We were camping in Death Vally last yer and the people at the next site over had so much light that we didn't need our lights at all. Made it hard for night vision to view the stars.

I also have two other very small red LED's on a dimmer in the galley hatch just to light up the galley a bit at night if you need to get something and don't need to turn on the bigger lights. I am getting into night/astro photography and have been playing with red lights to save your night vision. At some point I might convert to white LED's. From what I have read red is helpful but very low white light is almost as good.

Todd

[corc]

Thanks, Todd. A converter/charger would be a power center of some sort (PD4045, WFCO, etc), right? What would be the benefit of going with that over just the smart battery charger?

Love the idea of the red LEDs, I'll probably steal that one.

[pchast]

Thanks all!

Pete - I've been largely working off the diagram below that I've seen floating around, but I have seen it both ways. Is this to prevent toasting the switch and/or myself when flipping the switch?

Its to protect the switch, the line to the switch and the line to the charger. All have the potential to short to ground. A fuse should be the first thing hanging on the battery post
.

[KTM_Guy]

Thanks, Todd. A converter/charger would be a power center of some sort (PD4045, WFCO, etc), right? What would be the benefit of going with that over just the smart battery charger?

Love the idea of the red LEDs, I'll probably steal that one.

If you are going to be camping in campgrounds with 120v power mostly the power center will make some sense. but if you'll mostly be in sites without power and using 12v I don't see the usefulness.

This is what I used for the red lights.


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-18 ... 4c4dDFgOnJ