Attaching trailer to frame

[eagle24]

Do you attach your floor so it would be easy to remove the camper shell from the frame if necessary? I’m considering using 1/4” self tapping screws along the sides. They would be underneath the walls making it difficult to remove the shell from the frame. Bad idea?



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[working on it]

Do you attach your floor so it would be easy to remove the camper shell from the frame if necessary? I’m considering using 1/4” self tapping screws along the sides. They would be underneath the walls making it difficult to remove the shell from the frame. Bad idea?....

• I never considered ever removing the superstructure; that's exactly why I used 38 Tek screws on the perimeter of my trailer's floor, to ensure that the eight 3/8" carriage bolts holding the first 4x8 plywood sheet (1/2" Birch plywood) to the original C-channel crossmembers, wouldn't let go.
• I covered the exposed carriage bolt heads (inside semi-recessed holes) with a 1/4" Luan 4x8 sheet, glued with TB2, and mechanically fastened with the Tek screws, thru both plywood sheets and into the stronger metal of the tubular perimeter framing. They'll never let go. I put most of the Teks under the 3/4" perimeter of the future walls, but some are still visible if I lift the carpet edges, but I didn't see it as a necessity to conceal them. Pictured here, in another thread: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=68349&hilit=+tek#p1202710

[KTM_Guy]

I think bad idea. What if you get some damage that would be easier to repair by taking the camper off the trailer? You wouldn’t be able to easy.

Todd

[friz]

Mine is spaced from the trailer using carriage bolts and hockey pucks. I dont have to worry about moisture getting between the shell and the trailer frame.

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[eagle24]

Thanks for the replies and ideas. I guess this is another debate there isn't a strong consensus on. Neither is there a complete right or wrong. I can see situations where either could be fine. I don't want to drill completely through my tubing frame, so I would need to use a screw if I attach directly to the tubing frame. If I want to use bolts, I will need to weld some tabs to the inside of the frame rails (tubes). If I go this route, I would be able to remove the cabin from the chassis if I ever need to. For me, it's more about whether I want a mounting that is easily removed. If I were not lapping the outside ply over the frame, I would use screws and not think twice. If I needed to remove the cabin, I could slide a recip saw blade between the frame and cabin and cut it loose. Long and short of it, I guess I'll go ahead and weld some mounting tabs and bolt it down. I cant see any reason I would regret doing it this way.

[eagle24]

Mine is spaced from the trailer using carriage bolts and hockey pucks. I dont have to worry about moisture getting between the shell and the trailer frame.

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Friz,
Having built several boats, I gotta say you did an outstanding job on your trailer! Your epoxy work is very neat. I always get epoxy on EVERYTHING including the dog! Your build thread is very nice! I enjoyed reading through it and looking at the pics. What weight cloth did you use on the outside? It probably tells, but I missed it.
Greg

[Sparksalot]

I think bad idea. What if you get some damage that would be easier to repair by taking the camper off the trailer? You wouldn’t be able to easy.

Todd

I always thought if the tear needed that kind of repair it had bigger issues.

[working on it]

I think bad idea. What if you get some damage that would be easier to repair by taking the camper off the trailer? You wouldn’t be able to easy.

Todd

I always thought if the tear needed that kind of repair it had bigger issues.

• And with the use of the miracle adhesives we have now, and by using the wide selection of powered saws, rotary cutters, and vibratory tools (no, not that kind!) available everywhere, the removal of and replacement of a damaged portion is much easier now than ever before.
• If I wanted to, I could cut away my roof, and insert a 2-ft vertical section on all four sides (even the sloped front end), just so I could stand up inside, if I cared to. I'm no carpenter, but it would be do-able.
• Cutting the deck might've been possible, if I had only used the eight carriage bolts into the c-channel cross-members...but with 38 Tek screws into inaccessible tubing, it can't be done, without ripping everything apart. My trailer was built for camping only, not carrying large amounts of cargo (though limited amounts of gear or loose items can be transported inside, strapped-in and held-fast with e-track and tie-down loops inside (justifying the "utility trailer" registration).

[friz]

Mine is spaced from the trailer using carriage bolts and hockey pucks. I dont have to worry about moisture getting between the shell and the trailer frame.

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Friz,
Having built several boats, I gotta say you did an outstanding job on your trailer! Your epoxy work is very neat. I always get epoxy on EVERYTHING including the dog! Your build thread is very nice! I enjoyed reading through it and looking at the pics. What weight cloth did you use on the outside? It probably tells, but I missed it.
Greg

I believe it is 6 oz E-glass. Very stretchy on the bias. It is amazing what you can get it to conform to.

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[tony.latham]

Me? I fall into the camp that wants to keep the option open for removing the cabin. My concern isn't so much about the cabin itself but for a weld that needs to be fixed.

The other point I'll make is that it's much easier to build the cabin on a dolly or stand and then load it on the chassis when it's nearly done. (I've done it both ways.) It's a pain to build around the wheels and tongue.



[img][Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/CaYxb3Z.jpg)[/img]

If you look at Youtube videos on how the big boys do it––So-Cal or Camp-Inn or Vistabule or the others––none of them build on the chassis.

Just some thoughts...

Tony

[mary and bob]

If you decide to bolt it down you could use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts. Larger and flatter head on the elevator bolts. Uhaul used them to fasten the body to the frame on their fiberglass campers. However, proving that "nothing is forever" those 1/4" elevator bolts on the 34 year old trailers have been found to be almost completely rusted away where they pass though the plywood floor. Use stainless steel maybe?

[greygoos]

Elevator bolts were put into production for exactly that, elevators. They were used for grain elevators and were manufactured to snap with stress.

[friz]

Me? I fall into the camp that wants to keep the option open for removing the cabin. My concern isn't so much about the cabin itself but for a weld that needs to be fixed.

The other point I'll make is that it's much easier to build the cabin on a dolly or stand and then load it on the chassis when it's nearly done. (I've done it both ways.) It's a pain to build around the wheels and tongue.



[img][Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/CaYxb3Z.jpg)[/img]

If you look at Youtube videos on how the big boys do it––So-Cal or Camp-Inn or Vistabule or the others––none of them build on the chassis.

Just some thoughts...

Tony

Ooooooo pretty.

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[mary and bob]

Elevator bolts were put into production for exactly that, elevators. They were used for grain elevators and were manufactured to snap with stress.

Well then apparently Uhaul made a major manufacturing error. Which type stress were they designed to fail at, shear or tensile. I'll pass that info on to all the Uhaul owners that they are using the wrong bolts.

[QueticoBill]

Maybe use plow bolts if your are concerned about elevator bolts. Basically a flush or countersunk carriage bolt. Yes you have to countersink but no you don't have to worry about the head, or it shearing.