Bug Out Trailers (A simple foamie)

[Tigris99]

there's your issue, 40lbs in XPS foam, dont even think there is maybe 10 lbs there

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[Sparksalot]

I agree the HF trailer in stock form is a bit weak for a back country trailer. Stiff springs, light axles and tongues in need of reinforcement for off road use are the weak points of these trailers. Steel is adequate if supported properly. You can check out this forum https://tventuring.com/trailerforum/index.php that mostly revolves around using the HF trailers for back country travel. All the necessary upgrades for the HF trailer for off road use are discussed. Soft ride springs, 3500lbs axles and a 2"x2" steel tube for extra tongue strength will get these trailers up to snuff for back country travel. Yes it does drive the price up, but you can do it one piece at a time to suite your needs. HF trailers are hard to beat to get you on the road.

Thanks again! George.

Oh great, now I have ANOTHER forum to go geek out on.

Thanks, btw.

[ghcoe]

I agree the HF trailer in stock form is a bit weak for a back country trailer. Stiff springs, light axles and tongues in need of reinforcement for off road use are the weak points of these trailers. Steel is adequate if supported properly. You can check out this forum https://tventuring.com/trailerforum/index.php that mostly revolves around using the HF trailers for back country travel. All the necessary upgrades for the HF trailer for off road use are discussed. Soft ride springs, 3500lbs axles and a 2"x2" steel tube for extra tongue strength will get these trailers up to snuff for back country travel. Yes it does drive the price up, but you can do it one piece at a time to suite your needs. HF trailers are hard to beat to get you on the road.

Thanks again! George.

Oh great, now I have ANOTHER forum to go geek out on.

Thanks, btw.

It's a rabbit hole, but luckily it does not get much traffic so the info is not piling up on you. Enjoy !

[ghcoe]

Step 1 Floor-Part 1

[Tigris99]

one problem, should NEVER use OSB. BCX OR CDX ply. OSB is toast as soon as water gets in.

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[ghcoe]

one problem, should NEVER use OSB. BCX OR CDX ply. OSB is toast as soon as water gets in.

I used OSB, but did mention that ply woods could be use. The key is to keep the water out. Being foamies they are pretty water tight.

If the floor does get water damaged the floors are fairly easy to repair. Much easier than a traditional built trailer.

[Tigris99]

that's the major thing for us, floors are much easier to repair.

Problem doesnt lie up top, it's from underneath, moisture getting trapped. All about budget OSB wins. If you seal the hell out of it underneath, should be ok. Just think especially for "bug out" type use which means possibly dealing with creeks and such might be good insurance in the long term using exterior ply.

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[ghcoe]

Canvas is wrapped around bottom of floor 2" and then I applied two coats of Henry's 587 100% Acrylic Dura-Brite White Elastomeric Roof Coating to the underside of the floor.

Floor bottom

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I did later apply a drip edge to alleviate water seepage between the trailer body and frame.

Drip rail

20180909_172140s.jpg (249.95 KiB) Viewed 9230 times

I think this thing would float....

[Tigris99]

I dont believe "think" it would applies, judging by that if it was mine I wouldnt be afraid to test that (empty of corse).

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[ghcoe]

A short video with the Bug Out in use...

[Tigris99]

NICE. Man I wish I lived near terrain like that.

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[tony.latham]

I used OSB, but did mention that ply woods could be use. The key is to keep the water out. Being foamies they are pretty water tight.

If the floor does get water damaged the floors are fairly easy to repair.

There have been two foamie builders that have documented the replacement of their OSB floors on this forum this year. Somehow water got in and OSB of course swells and never recovers.

The cost of using an exterior grade plywood might add $20 ––so I shudder when I see someone using OSB.



Tony

[ghcoe]

I used OSB, but did mention that ply woods could be use. The key is to keep the water out. Being foamies they are pretty water tight.

If the floor does get water damaged the floors are fairly easy to repair.

There have been two foamie builders that have documented the replacement of their OSB floors on this forum this year. Somehow water got in and OSB of course swells and never recovers.

The cost of using an exterior grade plywood might add $20 ––so I shudder when I see someone using OSB.



Tony

Yes I did read those reports. The big issue was no drip edge. This one will have a drip edge installed. Not to say you cant use a better OSB/plywood product though.

[Tigris99]

Drip edge is actually a small portion, that takes care of water coming down above the door or window, reducing what gets inside.

The biggest issue is moisture that gets trapped between the frame and the floor of the camper, finds any imperfection in the sealing job and gets into the wood from there.

But as you said above, you put a lot of time into making sure the osb was well sealed. so in a rush that works but If ever building a new one, spend the few extra bucks for proper plywood especially with the awesome places you take yours.

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[ghcoe]

To eliminate the moisture trap between the body and the frame, and to make room for the drip edge, I have installed cross members between the trailer frame and body. Using 1"x2"s I lifted the body 3/4" above the frame and installed a drip edge around the bottom edge of the body, effectively eliminating the moisture trap. This will also prevent the frame from possibly rubbing through the water resistant barrier and/or canvas from the constant movement of the frame against the body.

drip rail

20180909_172140s.jpg (249.95 KiB) Viewed 9094 times

I did also have to install what I call inner frame rails to spread the load along the floor better. With just 5 points of contact with the cross members it created too much stress on the foam, I had some delamination at those points after my first trip out. I installed the inner frame rails and on the next trip I had no issues at all.