Wall design for my Cub build

[noseoil]

On our build it was 1/8" Baltic birch inside & outside, with 3/4" plywood as the skeleton frame. 3/4" foam for the holes, webs where ever there was a hard point needed for fastening & 3/8" dowels (3 of them) to join the extra 1' of length to make a 9' long wall. I know people will cringe at a 3/8" dowel pin into 3/4" plywood as a structural fastening for a side panel, but as Tony already stated, the skins are doing the real work of keeping the 3/4" plywood panel in place (glue & brads for alignment) once it's on the camper.

Here's the frame, 1' was added at the rear, 3 dowels (only) holding it in place with glue & a butt joint:


Here's the panel in place during the skinning of the outside, note the "hard points" for reading light & drink holders:


Skinned, look at the fastenings from the outside (lights, door, shore power inlet, window, shelf support, etc:

[HunterStephens]

Ok, here is wall revision 3 I think. I just made the entire area where the fender bolts on solid wood and I will cut out the excess as I see fit by hand. I have also made the wall for the other side. I only want one door (and I have updated this to the cutout for the pre-man I am using) so I put a window in the other wall for added light. I split the drawing into the 3 different pieces I will need. Until I get Fredericks manual and decide I need to change all this, I think this is the final version. I will add hardpoints for lights and switches as I need them. Tell me what ya think!

[MikeG2]

Okay here is what I have come up with for the skele wall. To make it 10ft long I made a huge puzzle joint that will be pulled apart before cutting so the walls will be in 2 pieces. The hatched areas will be foam insulation and I have left the shelves in on the diagram to show how the bracing will work. I think I will do blocking under the shelf boards that are shown. Tell me what you think.

Less than half that wall is insulated, I reckon. I'm an architect. If less than half the external wall of a house was insulated I'd ask what the point of the insulation was.........and I'm struggling to see the fundamental difference between the wall of a house and the walls of a teardrop in terms of thermal performance requirements.

[rkanz]

I used 1/2” okume marine ply for my walls. I never have condensation on the walls, even down to freezing temps. I don’t understand the benefit in a teardrop - you need to leave the windows cracked for ventilation which defeats the benefit of insulation.


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[HunterStephens]

MikeG2- Please refer to my latest drawing, its close to half insulation I believe. I have read in other posts that any insulation in the walls is a plus, however this is my first build and I have nothing to go off. I work in construction and I would have to agree that there isnt much difference between the walls of a house and the walls of a tear. In a house the air gap in the walls, if we didnt insulate just for the point, still has an insulative value. If I use a solid wall I have no air gap before the cabin so there would be no insulative value other than what the plywood provides, which isnt much. And if I didnt use some sort of waterproof plywood or epoxy coat the entire exterior, I would have condensation on the interior, just like in a house that was just sheathed. Please tell me if Im wrong on this.

rkanz- I would go the route of marine ply if the cost wasnt so high. The closest retailer to me is 2 hours away and they want $130/sheet for 1/2" OKUME. I just did the math and if I use the skeleton method with 3/4" ply, insulation and 1/4" underlayment skins inside and out Id be around $220 for both walls. I think I want to stain and epoxy the exterior to see the wood as well so If I use some 1/4" cherry or something similar I think it would look nice. The only issue I am going to have is the visible seam. I am still open to using aluminum if I can find it cheap in a 10' chunk. Anyone know where to get a deal on skins?

Thanks
Hunter