Simple Plexiglass Star Window

[tc3]

Ya I just want something that will let light in during the day and let me see the stars at night. On that note, how big is too big? Could I get away with 3'x5' without the 1/2" sheet drooping?

[hankaye]

tc3, Howdy;

One thing that hasn't yet been mentioned is the amount of warmth that can be generated
by such a window. Nice in the Winter not so much during the day in the Summer. Example,
I live in an RV and it is pointed to the North. In the rear (South facing), wall there is a
pretty big window, as the Sun makes it's arc the heat generated can be as much as 30 degrees
above the outside air temp. Where I'm located we get Air Temps into the 100's on a regular
basis during the Summer. What I spend for electricity in the Summer for air conditioning
I make up for during the Winter in propane savings.
Just something to consider ...

hank

[McDave]

Ya I just want something that will let light in during the day and let me see the stars at night. On that note, how big is too big? Could I get away with 3'x5' without the 1/2" sheet drooping?

Just for the sake of simplicity, I think keeping it confined to the space between roof supports (usually 24" on center) would be my preferred plan. I guess if you are willing and able to weld in a frame and provide for any cut supports you could have any size/ shape you wanted. I had to add a support frame for the rooftop A/C that was installed in place of the factory vent opening, but that did not require cutting any of the roof supports. The frame was welded to the support ahead and behind the vent opening. I can understand your desire for light and a more open feel. Cargo trailers are definitely lacking in the ambiance department. You can do a lot to improve that using indirect lighting and strip lights and the right colors and textures on the ceiling/headliner, which is closest to your eye. Hope this helps some way.

McDave

[beachguy005]

I agree with McDave. You have to consider expansion and contraction of the lens material you're going to use. You also have to consider the lateral flexing of the roof under the panel. The more framing you remove, the more flexing potential you'll get. With just tape holding the lens in position, and preventing water intrusion, you want the lens as stable as possible.

[GTS225]

Might something like this do the job for you?

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?p ... 3&id=49146

I'm seriously considering using them for windows in my build, with a clear center on the outside, a black center on the inside, and a piece of screen sandwiched between them.

Roger

[McDave]

McDave

[GTS225]

Actually, McDave's post might be a better solution.
McDave, where did you see that? I might have to modify my plans a touch.

Roger

[fishboat]

OP..I'll be honest, this sounds like a really bad idea. Besides the logistics of the install and leak sealing..long term, Plex isn't UV stable under constant sun exposure. It crazes (tiny internal cracks) fairly fast and becomes opaque. Acrylic sheet would be better from a UV stability standpoint.

Even without UV weathering and maintaining material-optical clarity issues, the ''window'' will always have some grime on it when you want to view the sky. When you clean it (window cleaner and paper towels..after climbing up there..need to bring or install a ladder..) the plastic (either type) is relatively soft..cleaning it will scratch the surface, reducing optical clarity. Flooding with a hose while cleaning would be much better..if you have a hose, ladder, and water..

..ugh..

Glass would be better. Without ongoing optical clarity it's just a hole in the roof that may leak..and offers a greehhouse effect to warm the interior in the summer and lose heat in the winter. Glass can be heavily coated to reduce infrared heating, but this is like wearing sunglasses to see the night sky.

I'd use vertical windows to let light in and step outside to see the sky.

..just an opinion..

[tc3]

Thanks for all the input guys. Sorry If I didn't make that clear. I won't be cutting any of the frame, just the aluminum skin. I was talking about asking the dealer to install 2 extra supports horizontally where I plan to cut the future hole.

Ya the thermal loss is something I need to figure out. Speaking of insulation, what is everyone's thoughts with the reclaimed polyiso? Stuff like this

For the ceiling colors and textures what do you recommend? I'm thinking the floor will be a light grey, light beach wood, or dark grey vinyl planks. For the countertop I'm thinking of using an Epoxy kit on top of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF. This seems like a better option than a laminate slab and not that much more. I have no idea about the coloring of this and the cabinets though. I might try and make a design/painting into the MDF first and then just cover it with clear coat.

Thanks for the opposing view fishboat. I'm very weary with this idea too. I looked into some Abrasion Resistant PC and Plexiglass and I can have those for around $150 online. Still unkown the Sun weatherability is. For a glass style window, how about something like this? If I could get one that opened all the way it would be a nice roof hatch/vent as well!

[Andrew Herrick]

If you're looking to just cut a hole and slap a sheet of plexi over it, I'm thinking that you get a piece a few inches larger than your opening. Run a couple beads of caulk or butyl tape around the opening, set and firmly bed the plexi lens in it and run something like 4" Eternabond tape to seal the edges to the roof. Much like you would the flashing on a roof vent.
Should work fine though it's not very good if security is an issue.

My 2 cents: Yes, this works. I've done it. Not a big fan, though, and I don't do it anymore for all the cons already listed in this thread: hard to clean, hard to insulate, hard to remove/replace, hard to make it not look so Macgyvered ... Plus, purchasing 10-year UV-stable polycarbonate in sufficient thickness to make it road worthy and eliminate sagging means $$$.

Don't get me wrong. It works! It just doesn't look or perform equal to a commercial skylight installation. Fish boat said: "I'd use vertical windows to let light in and step outside to see the sky," and for all practical reasons, I would agree with him.

On a different note: Love the epoxy counter top idea. Look into copper or aluminum foil counter top skinning underneath your epoxy flood coat; that'll really make it pop!

[McDave]

Actually, McDave's post might be a better solution.
McDave, where did you see that? I might have to modify my plans a touch.

Roger

Here ya go,
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN ... 0140003-20
Not a serious window, but I laugh every time I see it.

McDave

[jaysul]

Here is mine. Its a 20$ used picture window with plexi siliconed to the frame to prevent water collection. Its easy to clean and if it gets scratched i will take it off and lay down another!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[McDave]

McDave

[Andrew Herrick]

I do have to say: While installing house windows in campers isn't kosher, they seem to work out pretty well in tiny campers. Teardrops are typically overbuilt to such an extent that there's not enough movement to crack house glass. Plus, since no one's riding in the cabin, a broken pane isn't a dire safety hazard (well, except for all the vehicles behind you).

Crossing my fingers you didn't use actual silicone, else you'll be grinding the glueline for an hour if you ever remove the old window!

[tc3]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll start looking for a cheap old window or frame. I'm about to place my order and wanted to get anyones last piece of input. Id be ordering from usatrailershowroom.Com . Trailer is 8.5x20' Cargo Hauler: 24" extra height, 5k axles, 8" floor frame, galvanized underbelly, extended triple tube tongue, one piece roof, 32" door, no drop axles, no beaver tail, d rings seperate, no vent/light.

Price around $7300 at Georgia. I'm located in AZ