What to use to fill holes on wood before PMF?

[lacofdfireman]

So I’m going to hopefully start my PMF over my Overland Style Teardrop trailer but have a few questions first. If you have followed any of my threads you know this has been somewhat of a fiasco for me so I want to make sure I get this right. I’ve got the trailer skinned with 1/4” Birch Plywood and am trying to decide if I should try using “The Mix” before doing the PMF or just go straight onto the untreated plywood?

Also I’m trying to figure out a different way to do my bottom edge of the PMF. When I built this I should have made it so my bottom of my sides cam down and contacted the metal frame but I have a 1/2” piece of Baltic Birch on the bottom and my sides only come down to the tops of those sheets. I’d like to figure out a way to extend the PMF maybe clear down on my Frame rails. I’m not sure if PMF would stick to metal but I was thinking maybe I could have the PMF come all the way down to the frame rails then maybe have some type of trim piece like aluminum or something that sandwiched the PMF to the metal frame? That would keep water from being able to wick up to my base layer of 1/2” Baltic Birch. Anyone tried this? Would it work?

Also I’ve countersunk all my wood screws and need to fill in all the screw head holes. What’s the best thing to use besides epoxy”. I just don’t have the time for epoxy and to me it’s just not that easy especially on a vertical wall. What can I use that I can fill these holes with then sand flat?

Any help appreciated. Like I said I’d like to do it right this time. 3rd times a charm.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[lacofdfireman]

Well never heard from anyone so going to use Bondo body filler. Then I’ll sand it all smooth and do the PMF coating with Titebond II over the bare wood. Should work great from what I’m reading on other threads. I did a test piece last night with my current board and a bed sheet. This morning it took everything I had to tear from the test board and it ripped the sheet. When I put down it will be there to stay. I’ll have to completely destroy the trailer to ever get that stuff off once I put it down. I’m pretty sold on PMF if I can actually get it to lay down good and not have wrinkles everywhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Pmullen503]

If the holes and gaps are small, 1/2" or less, Bondo will be fine. Larger than that I would section in some wood. The canvas will not adhere as tightly to the Bondo. That won't be a problem if the Bondo area isn't too large.

[Chasein70]

I have no experience with this but why are you filling the holes? Aren't they getting covered up by siding?

[lacofdfireman]

I have no experience with this but why are you filling the holes? Aren't they getting covered up by siding?

When your doing the PMF method I’d think you need the surface to be flat as possible. I think the countersink holes would cause air pockets that could cause issues down the road so need to be filled and sanded.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[lacofdfireman]

If the holes and gaps are small, 1/2" or less, Bondo will be fine. Larger than that I would section in some wood. The canvas will not adhere as tightly to the Bondo. That won't be a problem if the Bondo area isn't too large.

Ya all my screws have been counter sunk. I only used 1/4” ply so they are not counter sunk very far. But I still think filling them would be the wise choice before I do the PMF over the top.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Pmullen503]

Filling all those countersunk screw heads is a good idea. You probably would never notice them under PMF but why take the chance?

[tmclemore]

I used regular wood filler on the holes and then sanded it smooth before applying pmf. Worked fine.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[lacofdfireman]

Going to start filling holes tomorrow. May try the regular wood filler. Sounds like it may be just as good as the bondo.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk