You make it out of polyurethane and mineral spirits.jfalkner wrote:By the way, where do I find "the mix" I keep seeing references to?
It looks like it's for waterproofing. Do you thin it to get better penetration into the wood? Is it 75% mineral spirits to 25% oil based poly? Is the a thread for it?tmclemore wrote:You make it out of polyurethane and mineral spirits.jfalkner wrote:By the way, where do I find "the mix" I keep seeing references to?
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tmclemore wrote:Do a search of the site for "The Mix" and you will find many threads discussing the use of the mix. Mostly it is 50/50 and used for water proofing. Some folks start with a 75/25 mix then a 50/50 then a 25/75. I only use the 50/50 and it works great for my applications.
Thank you so much for the insight. I'm close to being done with my trailer, so getting ready for starting the floor.working on it wrote:tmclemore wrote:Do a search of the site for "The Mix" and you will find many threads discussing the use of the mix. Mostly it is 50/50 and used for water proofing. Some folks start with a 75/25 mix then a 50/50 then a 25/75. I only use the 50/50 and it works great for my applications.
* I went the full route using the "mix", with 25/75%, 50/50%, 25/75%, then finishing with 100% poly. Two coats of each, to ensure penetration (best as I can remember). I didn't do it this way without reason, though, but because I was violating the instructions, and coating the previously un-prepped bare plywood (it was pre-sanded, with phenolic resin between plies, so all I did was wipe it down with thinner, to remove dust/fingerprint oils from construction) in direct sun, in 106-110 degree heat.
* The "mix" was soaking in so fast that I wanted to make sure it was not just evaporating, but truly penetrating the wood. Each successive layer took me under a half-hour, and it was complete before dark (started after noon). The end result looked so good that I almost wished I hadn't already planned for (and bought) three different top-coat paints to cover it, since I used Minwax Fast-Drying poly -not UV protective-.
* I pushed it back inside the shop, where it cured for a week, then top-coated the poly with "Massey Ferguson Grey" Valspar Tractor & Implement Enamel (on sides and lower front), Valspar Heavy-Duty Aluminum Paint (reflective "silo" covering, for upper front, roof, and hatch)), and Rustoleum Black Enamel for edges. Same conditions applied, very hot & sunny, and the results were great. I let it cure another week before I touched the trailer again.
* Since it was painted in 2012, I've re-touched the front slope and rear hatch, to cover-up incidental contact blemishes/road damage, but there's never been a hint of paint/poly failure, water leakage, or chalking, in the 6.5 years since then. I think the use of the "mix" is the best prep you can do for a plywood surface, better than any wood primer I've ever used. I violated logic in the way I applied the coatings, but it worked!
Breb,breb wrote:Welcome to the form. Yes I used the mix on my sheet stock . 50/50 at first 2 coats and a 3rd 25% . I used the Valspar marine exterior .
It went on like water and it doesn't take anytime to cover your material. I covered all edges . I used a bondo filler (buy at automotive store) over screw holes and then put another coat of the mix on. Covering the filled screw heads. I'm still building my project , just down for the winter here in Wisconsin. I'm thinking about doing the roof core where my insulation goes , maybe a one time coat just a preventive measure.
You can see some of the blotchy marks on the side from the filler and like I said I put 3 coats over it .
Good luck with your build.
jfalkner wrote:Thank you so much for the insight. I'm close to being done with my trailer, so getting ready for starting the floor.
So did you mean 25/75, 50/50 and then 75/25? Or did you go back to the thinner mixture?
What kind off siding did you use, that looks like pine?....
I was referring to the wood or material used for making your curved ceiling and roofing.breb wrote:Now you have me scratching my head. The orginal layout on brown rapping paper , full size was transferred to 1/8th ply template and then refined from the original print to a free style curve. I have that pic some where just not in my gallery here. Here you can see visually what the sweeping curve looks like. at the back. Not to sure if you are talking about bending the 1/8" ply for the interior roof . I didn't bend any corners with ply. We might not be on the same page. My walls stand 52" high which I got out of the 5x5 foot sheet Baltic Birch material I used. Out side wall was 1/2" BB 3/4"poplar core and 1/4" BB interior wall.
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