Central Michigan Canned Ham

[Danomite]

Well, I haven't been accomplishing a whole lot this week. The snow is melting and it has been raining a bit, so things are pretty sloppy around here.
I did get the new axle mounted and it increased the track width from 58 inches to 89 inches, so it makes me feel much better about the stability. I also have been using machine screws to bolt 1"x1" strips of pine/spruce in the interior of the walls to have something to attach my 5/16" knotty cedar tongue & groove interior to.
I am starting to realize that one of the toughest phases of the project is just beginning. Surprisingly, it seems like that will be drilling the hundreds and hundreds of 3/16" holes for the machine screws and the pop rivets.

[Danomite]

Well, I have been adding 1×1 wood strips for my interior t&g to attach to, and now that they are all in place I welded the skeleton to the trailer. The total height is 93 inches. This means the remainder of the work will be done in the pole building out back with 12 foot sidewalls. The garage has a 7 foot tall door, so it will no longer fit in there.

[Danomite]

In case I need to further clarify the idea of the wood strips, I took this pic. The aluminum skin will be pop-riveted to the steel skeleton, but the interior t&g cedar will be attached to the wood strips with a crown stapler.

[Danomite]

And a close-up of the strips that have been bolted in with 10-24 machine screws. In the length of the walls it isn't necessary to hide the heads, but in the corners I drilled my 3/16" holes thru & then drilled a 3/8" hole thru the outside of the tubing so that the head of the machine screw is actually inside the tubing & not being a bump in the exterior to be in the way of the aluminum skin.
There have been 2 rather important things I have learned in this process so far:
1. Not all $5 (3/16") drill bits are created equal. The best one I've purchased so far was from Advanced Auto Parts. Century brand.
2. Use a 2 speed drill. I was using my cheapie Black & Decker rechargeable single speed and it was slow going. Tried the 2 speed Dewalt rechargeable and I won't be using the B&D anymore on this project!

[Danomite]

And a test fit of the aluminum diamond plate. Now I need to find a local fabrication shop with a sheet metal brake over 74 inches to bend the edges for the overlap joints.

[Danomite]

Started actually installing the aluminum today. The sheet of black diamond plate at the back is so cars coming up behind don't get blinded by their own headlights.

[Philip]

On the clear drilling and using threw bolts. I would have used nutserts or rivet nuts or any of the other names used for them. You would have had a lot less drilling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8sy_Glha28

[alaska teardrop]

Hi Dan,
Good to see another member building with metal.
Elenbaas Steel in Greenville has large brakes for bending Aluminum.
You could also get your frame powder coated at Powder Coating Services in Greenville: https://powder-coating-services.business.site/

You could also look at the links in my signature for ideas on things like riveting & vhb tape, insulation & vapor barrier, thermal brakes ect.

Good luck, Fred

[Danomite]

Philip, thanks for the suggestion, I will definitely keep it in mind if I ever do a future build. Actually, the drilling wasn't near as bad once I got a good quality drill bit and started using the 2-speed Dewalt drill.
Dan

[Danomite]

Fred, thanks for the suggestions. I actually had a local ductwork craftsman make the bends for me with a sheet metal brake. And if I had actually built a new frame, I would have considered having it powder coated. But this frame I'm using is from a 1970 WagonMaster popup (built in Sturgis, MI) and was in very good condition considering it is 48-49 years old.
Btw, I'm very impressed with your builds.
Dan

[Danomite]

We had to install the upper bunk before the sidewalls were put on. It is piano hinged to the steel tubing framework.

[Danomite]

The (future) lower bunk will also be the dinette, so the upper will be swung up out of the way when it is being used in dinette mode.
The floor will be the next step, then skin the sides, insulation, and then on to putting up the knotty cedar inside.

[Danomite]

BTW, my apologies for these last 3 pics, I dropped my old phone one too many times, so I got this new one, and quite frankly, it sucks. It has no cropping ability.
Ok, well, I got the driver's side skinned. And even got Grampy's little man to pose in the picture.
I believe I will have to get insulation in the walls and get the t&g cedar hung before I can install the door & windows.

[Danomite]

And the passengers side is now skinned. Also, I got on Etsy & ordered a handmade awning today.
Insulation in the walls is the next task. As small as this is, I expect to be able to complete it in one afternoon/evening.

[aggie79]