
I too worked with metal & boats; Hobbies were skinny water boats, Not mostly in the air riding on a prop though.
Alright! Glad I could help!twisted lines wrote:I measured and drew my Insulation a little more carefully today after seeing your lay out![]()
I too worked with metal & boats; Hobbies were skinny water boats, Not mostly in the air riding on a prop though.
Good question Tony. There's a couple reasons I do it. First, the Imron is an automotive clear. The final finish is flawless, but, it needs a sealer over the wood to get it that way. Without it, the clear tends to swell the grain. It's also crystal clear. The Lacquer does an excellent job of sealing it first, dries rapidly so it can be sanded quickly between coats and it adds the perfect amount of Amber to the Birch. There are probably other ways to achieve this, but it's what works for me.tony.latham wrote:Gorgeous.
Why did you lacquer before the poly?
Tony
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Atomic77 wrote:Good question Tony. There's a couple reasons I do it. First, the Imron is an automotive clear. The final finish is flawless, but, it needs a sealer over the wood to get it that way. Without it, the clear tends to swell the grain. It's also crystal clear. The Lacquer does an excellent job of sealing it first, dries rapidly so it can be sanded quickly between coats and it adds the perfect amount of Amber to the Birch. There are probably other ways to achieve this, but it's what works for me.tony.latham wrote:Gorgeous.
Why did you lacquer before the poly?
Tony
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Thank you Tony, much appreciatedtony.latham wrote:Atomic77 wrote:Good question Tony. There's a couple reasons I do it. First, the Imron is an automotive clear. The final finish is flawless, but, it needs a sealer over the wood to get it that way. Without it, the clear tends to swell the grain. It's also crystal clear. The Lacquer does an excellent job of sealing it first, dries rapidly so it can be sanded quickly between coats and it adds the perfect amount of Amber to the Birch. There are probably other ways to achieve this, but it's what works for me.tony.latham wrote:Gorgeous.
Why did you lacquer before the poly?
Tony
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Thanks for the explanation. As usual, superb work.
T
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Thank you for appreciating it!Aguyfromohio wrote:My goodness Michael that is an amazing high gloss finish.
Superb.
Atomic77 wrote:If it's worth having, it's worth working for. Hours of sanding and buffing to get depth like this. I almost have all the finish work completed.
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retep wrote:
I am at a loss for words. That is a beautiful finish. You just set the bar up a few notches!!!
Thank you. I have heard arguements for both. What I know for a fact is there are people (like myself) running nothing but Kero with no problems at all. Hours and hours of trouble free use. What you will gain from running good quality Kero will far outweigh a $15 pump. My suggestion is, never run the pump 'dry' and if you are concerned, buy a spare and keep it for a rainy day. They are cheap enough. I prefer to have a soot free burner. I just wish the darn pumps weren't so loud.featherliteCT1 wrote:Atomic77 wrote: Actually my plan is to run it [the diesel heater] on kerosene.
Atomic,
I bought the same Chinese Diesel Heater as yours and bench tested it yesterday ... works great! I am still learning the ins and outs about this unit.
I ran it on kerosene fuel.
I read where the piston in the fuel pump is lubricated by the oils contained in the diesel fuel. However, my understanding is that kerosene does not provide as much lubrication as diesel fuel. In the diesel truck area, I read where some guys routinely blend kerosene with diesel fuel, but not in excess of 25% kerosene so as to avoid damage to the fuel pump caused by inadequate lubrication.
In your research, did you ever read or hear anything about kerosene causing premature pump failure in these diesel heaters due to inadequte lubrication of the piston?
PS: love your work!
Atomic77 wrote:Thank you. I have heard arguements for both. What I know for a fact is there are people (like myself) running nothing but Kero with no problems at all. Hours and hours of trouble free use. What you will gain from running good quality Kero will far outweigh a $15 pump. My suggestion is, never run the pump 'dry' and if you are concerned, buy a spare and keep it for a rainy day. They are cheap enough. I prefer to have a soot free burner. I just wish the darn pumps weren't so loud.featherliteCT1 wrote:Atomic77 wrote: Actually my plan is to run it [the diesel heater] on kerosene.
Atomic,
I bought the same Chinese Diesel Heater as yours and bench tested it yesterday ... works great! I am still learning the ins and outs about this unit.
I ran it on kerosene fuel.
I read where the piston in the fuel pump is lubricated by the oils contained in the diesel fuel. However, my understanding is that kerosene does not provide as much lubrication as diesel fuel. In the diesel truck area, I read where some guys routinely blend kerosene with diesel fuel, but not in excess of 25% kerosene so as to avoid damage to the fuel pump caused by inadequate lubrication.
In your research, did you ever read or hear anything about kerosene causing premature pump failure in these diesel heaters due to inadequte lubrication of the piston?
PS: love your work!
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