Those windows are absolute junk. I have had nothing but trouble and unfortunately I have two. After a load of work, they are no longer leaking. For now...
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Minics04 wrote:Short answer-YES!
I removed the window from the frame. I sprayed the wd-40 around the glass edge on both the outside and inside of the frame, let it sit, then slowly worked the sealant loose with a screwdriver, thin putty knife, and razor blade. I worked from both side outside and inside. A razor blade got into the sealant on the inside between the glass and frame very well. If I felt resistant,I sprayed more wd-40 as I went. Sometimes, spraying and waiting for it to loosen the sealant. I worked the glass very slowly to not destroy the glass. Take your time, It's a mess. The window came out much easier than I thought it would.
I spent a lot of time and effort to make sure the window from was free of wd-40 and old sealant. Using a plastic putty knife to scrape the old sealant away as to not scratch the window frame. Lots of paper toweling. Cleaning with rubbing alcohol.
I applied a GOOD bead of black silicon sealant. It filled up the gap and channel between the window glass and frame on the outside of the frame. I was not to concerned with the sealant swishing out of the frame on the interior of the frame. I let the sealant set up then trimmed the excess with a razor blade. The black sealant blends in very nice.
Hope this helps! Take your time and you will get it.
Good Luck!
Atomic77 wrote:Coming from a boat racing background, I've used a lot of different marine products. As stated above, 3M makes about the best I've experienced, 4200 if it may need to be removed later, 5200 if it's a done deal. Those on here that know me, know that I'm not typically a product basher. In fact, correct me if I'm wrong but to my knowledge the only product I've ever been adamantly disgusted with is these stupid windows. There is something about them that is designed absolutely wrong. Yes, they need compression from the ring to seal, but oooops too much and they will leak. Not enough and they will leak. Use the most expensive sealant known to man and they leak. And again, it's not the seal between the frame and the coach. It's in the construction of the frame and glass. Over the past two years, taking the stupid things apart, sealing, re-sealing, going for months thinking I'm good, then... Leaking. Again. And maybe they made a bad batch, but I personally know others with the same problem and I have two. Both leaked, have leaked or are currently leaking. Here's my advice. Go with a different window.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Pretty much way ahead of you on that. But thanks anywayfishboat wrote:Atomic77 wrote:Coming from a boat racing background, I've used a lot of different marine products. As stated above, 3M makes about the best I've experienced, 4200 if it may need to be removed later, 5200 if it's a done deal. Those on here that know me, know that I'm not typically a product basher. In fact, correct me if I'm wrong but to my knowledge the only product I've ever been adamantly disgusted with is these stupid windows. There is something about them that is designed absolutely wrong. Yes, they need compression from the ring to seal, but oooops too much and they will leak. Not enough and they will leak. Use the most expensive sealant known to man and they leak. And again, it's not the seal between the frame and the coach. It's in the construction of the frame and glass. Over the past two years, taking the stupid things apart, sealing, re-sealing, going for months thinking I'm good, then... Leaking. Again. And maybe they made a bad batch, but I personally know others with the same problem and I have two. Both leaked, have leaked or are currently leaking. Here's my advice. Go with a different window.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Bummer..sounds like a terrible design. I googled stargazer windows and nothing much comes up(can't see how they're assembled).
Maybe re-engineer them? Keep the frame and window and dump everything else..rebuild them with 5200.. You can "mold" a nice, smooth surface-edge in 4200/5200 by wetting a (gloved) finger with xylenes. It'll still cure up fine.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests