Truck cap/Camper cap build

[RJ Howell]

In the process of learning this technic of building my intention is to build a Camper Cap for my F-150.

This will serve as a cap, as well as a 'weekend' escape camper. I do a lot of Overlanding and found so many place I'd like to stay for the night. This may just fill that want.
My ultimate build will come later and hopefully incorporate what I learn from this process.

With reading several threads now of how folks have done theirs, I'm ready to dive in. Basic design set and will change as I proceed. Pictures vs. drawings and explaination of what I'm doing/about to do.

Here's the basic design.

Here's the curved roof version which I hope to achieve:


This is just a Cap, not a full camper. I consider it a Sleeper. A raised platform for the bed (to get full width) and over-cab is just for weekend storage of clothes. Under the platform will be an area for cooking gear, bug tent, etc.. That part later..

I have purchased the 1 1/2" styro board from HD and the Gorilla Glue. Starting to draw it out.

I have researched the deflection rate of the panel.. The math is way beyond my simple mind, so I put it on the horses and tested. I like up to 3" over 8ft. Don't like the crackling sound so much, so I won't push beyond that. I'm not yet a fan of kerfing this material, I want the added strength in this panel for the roof. Adding some stress (curve) makes sense to me.

So, my journey of learning begins!

[Postal_Dave]

Sounds like a great first build. Take your time and take plenty of pictures. Have fun.

[RJ Howell]

Layout done! Used a section of PVC tubing I have around to mark-out the roof curve.



That of course lead to the cutting. Used my saber saw for the rough in cut. And see how close I got it?
Funny, I didn't notice my Camper in the background and how it lined up on the cap.. Cute, but too long... LOL, that wasn't planned.



Checking the angle I hope for and how it will look. I like! Used the back hatch on the existing cap as my baseline. 20 degrees.



Now for my first attempt at joining two pieces of foam.. A full piece of duck tape underneath, un-fold, Gorilla glue on one half, spritz of water on the other, fold together, tape and await the result. Waiting is the hardest part..



I see my first mistake already.. I told myself 'no' square inside corners! I'm also seeing I want to angle the panel as it comes to the cab of the truck. May be able to fix that square I.S. cut then, or just add a piece of foam and go at it again. Really like that you can do that!

I'm going to try the skill saw for cutting the 20 degree angle on the bottom and top. Figure I need a 12 or less toothed blade. Curious if anyone has attempted flipping the blade as we used to with vinyl siding?
Hey, what's some experimenting...

[RJ Howell]

Whoa! I remember how to use this Gorilla glue!

Good oozing along the edges without being overly done. I just glued back in the cut-out I did, so I can re-cut with the angle I want (and the curved I.S. corner).

Also see I'm going to stretch the top curve a bit more. I was awaiting the first glue-up to decide on this.

This leads me to kerffing. I know I said I'm not yet convinced, yet can see possibilities of doing. Just not with Gorilla glue.. If you have, talk to me as to how you did.
What I can see is using Great Stuff. I'd have to ty a bond, yet read a thread of an individual using it successfully. It's the whole time factor of loading to clamping and open time allowed for a good bond. I see GS as a quick fill (back bend the curve and load) and clamp.
Please, if you have done either, let me know. I'm debating the front angle over the cab..

That curve just looked cool! Funny how a photo mistake leads to a better idea..



Back to the waiting game...

[Postal_Dave]

Everybody has their own opinion of using Great Stuff. So take mine with several grains of salt.

Great Stuff expands with force. The black can has the most force as it expands, the red next, and the blue can has the least force. I think they all have the same amount of stickiness. I prefer the blue can for gluing. When I'm trying to glue two pieces of foam together, I don't want a huge seam of expanded Great Stuff between the two pieces of foam. So I use the blue can of Great Stuff, I use a small amount, then spread it out using a piece of scrap wood or plastic to cover the area I'm gluing. (I also wear gloves) I also make sure everything is clamped well, or it will get pushed out of place by the expanding Great Stuff.
I like having everything I want to glue already cut out and ready to go before I start to use Great Stuff. I have all my clamps ready and so I can work fast. After I use Great Stuff, the Great Stuff left in the can's applicator will dry and the can won't work anymore. I'm not talking about the application straw, (which also becomes gummed up and useless) I mean in the can itself. So I make sure I have almost everything I want to glue ready to go before I use Great Stuff. I rarely get two uses out of a can. (That's my experience, other's may have tricks so they can use a can over and over.)

BTW: You're making a lot of good progress. I like the way the front edge of your Cap looks with the camper behind it. Makes it tempting to add that nice front roll doesn't it?

[RJ Howell]

Yes, it does! Reason I'm asking more questions. And Thank you for participating in my adventure of learning.

I do have the same opinion of GS being a one time use. I would have been reading cans to figure out which was best. Again, thank you.

My issue with using Gorilla glue comes from not being able to apply to one side (like all kerf's) then coming back and adding water to the other. You get stuck at just spraying over and hoping 'all' activates.. My experience with GG is if you add too much water you see bubbles in the glue. Not good.. I don't know when working with foam or this tight an area, kerf's.. Put some on a board and 'paint it in'? Back bend and spray over? Clueless here..

[RJ Howell]

Patches done and dry enough to sand. Lesson learned.. Foam is weak than wood (what I'm used to working with) so 'do not' attempt to chisel away any access.. sand it!

First. I wish to apologize from being so dumb on making my curve.. I have built so many 'yard bows' it was a 'Duh' moment when it hit me..

Cut the PVC pie to length and string it! Duh...


Adjust tension to required/wanted ark.


I am still debating the back side angle.. I do like the front angle at the cab now, it's getting real close.


Patches came out pretty good and starting to feel confident in glueing foam.

I'm currently 2" under my maximum height I'm allowing. I must be able to drive into the garage/workshop. I see reduction in the rear height coming shortly. I tend to think it might be a bit more pleasing to the eye if lowered a bit.
Hey, I can always glue the cut-off back on.. God I love that part!

[RJ Howell]

Last for today and I think final on the roof curve. I was reaching critical height and needed to lower a bit. I do like this better.



A little tweaking on the front edge, yet back I'm good with. Getting close and should be able to cut the other side tomorrow.

Best part is: I'm approaching a 4ft wide roof! With the side angles it's real close. We shall see..

[RJ Howell]

Okay, one more for today, thought that is..

Not knowing how strong these side walls will be, and thinking I may want an awning of sorts. Supported by pole from the ground yet carried/stored by the cap, I may just rout in something to attach it to. I don't, am trying very hard, not to add any wood this. It would be very easy to rout in a piece of 3/4" ply.. I'm looking around here for a piece of aluminum that could work.. I have plenty of thin aluminum/flashing style.. I also have 1x1 aluminum angle.. Maybe cut the angle so I have a 1" strip of aluminum to attach to?

Just thinking here before I get too deep into this and can not...

[GPW]

Never too deep … I kinda’ like the sharper ( more streamline ) angle on the front .. The bowed top looks Cool !!! JMHO

[RJ Howell]

About to head out to the shop and go at it again. Believe I will have 'all' panels cut and fit today. With that said... next step.

I like the idea of sealing the inside before glueing the sections together. Seems simple enough, I figure I need to leave 1 1/2" (wall thickness) of foam exposed for glueing. I did learn my local HD still has some 'Glidden' Gripper on the shelves. Thinking just a couple gallons for the size of this, but I have no clue...

I figure to try the bedsheet system on the inside and see how that looks. I assume it would be a smoother look.. again, no clue..

I've read a few threads now and see something I like for the outside edges. I'd like to try a 3/4" vinyl 1/4 round (drywall molding meant for archways) and wrap the outside material over that and cut it there. Should reduce the over-lap seaming look. I realize this would only be a 3/4" (aprox.) overlap.. enough?

Progress pictures later today.

PS Also need to figure out a insert of sorts for mounting a possible awning. Though now is to mount a Keder Rail.

[RJ Howell]

Pictures of todays progress. A bit less than I thought but a few changes (and that takes time).

I set this up at my first choice of 20 degrees (which matches the F-150 cab.. Didn't like it! Adjusted back to 12 degrees and it looked boxy.. Didn't like it. Finally settled as you see it at 15 degrees. Not too far off the F-150's slope yet better to 'my eye' (just that's what really counts, aye?).

I did even up the curve a bit, then traced out the other side. Clamping both together, sanding until they matched.
Bevel time!
For this I did go to the Skill saw. Worked great! Since this is just an edge cut, no burning, sticking, no issues whatever. For the record (and others safety), I am using a jig saw to rough in all my sections.



I used several pieces to make up the back area that you see. Also marked out where I believe I'll but cutting it for the hatch/entry (hard to see unless you click on the image). When I laid out my top arch/curve I set both ends equal, so that when I get to this point (back in place) I can take dimensions to cut the front sections.



Nope, no roof yet.. Yet now I can rough in the size and make up my sections for the front. They will need to be glued up. Waste not, want not (and it's so easy to glue-up!).

I hoped to have the sections glued up today for the front, yet so much time was used up just getting it where I'm happy with what I see. Hopes tomorrow is to get those pieces cut, get the utility cap off the truck and do a dry fit. Then start all over.. LOL..

Side note: I did try the table saw on a couple of items. Be very careful when doing so! I am a believer that your limbs are much more important than the cost of material. Let the piece fly across the shop! Nope, didn't like that at all.

[RJ Howell]

All sections now rough cut. Sections all glued up.




I do not have strap clamps so I made some string clamps! Dry fitting of all but a section done. I need to pin it, so I can lift it and final fit to the F-150.




I've finally reached the point of truck fitting! WHOA!

I sampled a piece of foam with the Gorilla glue is see if the roof seam will withstand the stress of the curve. I'm currently thinking not.. the seam broke pretty quick. Thinking now I will put a slight bevel at that seam to reduce the pressure on it. Getting nervous about that seam now...

[RJ Howell]

Dry fit time!

Sides angle worked out well. I was worry about this.. I like it being in a bit and very close to matching at the top.
Someone wish to teach me how to rotate that photo, awesome!



Also looked decent along the bed rails..

I knew I was long, but rally didn't know how I want the side to hit the cab (or short of). Hmm.. 2 1/2" long..
Oh well, knew I'd be cutting it anyway.



The over-cab compartment looked rather high at first look, then measured over the cab and found I'm a 1 1/2" off the cab. I'm shooting for 1/2" at the closest point. That will be lower, yet there still will be a fairly large space thereat the sides. Always thought there would be and probably no way around that and the way most camper caps look. I may re-visit this...

The cap was so light, just a small breeze wobbled it. I know re-inforcing the seams will add quite a bit of stability, just don't know how much that really is... never done this before. I also looked at the curve of the bed rails and thought of stressing the sides a bit to follow the curve. I figure what ever I decide upon the insert (connection to the truck) would hold the curve along the bottom edge. Again, I have never worked with foam like this before and 'think' any added stress will add to stability of the over-all cap.

P.S. Folks, I've been doing a lot of talking to myself here.. I'm in the dark on many areas of this. I've asked quite a few questions and mentioned some of 'my' directions I think to go in. Please, if you can advise... do so..

[Pmullen503]

You'll be pleasantly surprised how everything strengthens up once it's canvassed. I canvassed the insides flat and then ran an 8" wide strip of canvas along the inside corners to tie the sides together after assembly. Assemble the parts quickly if you canvas the insides first: the sides and top will warp if covered on only one side and are left to dry for a couple days.