7x16 conversion

[James06]

OK, I did a minimalist conversion of a 7x12 a few years ago and documented it on here. We eventually bout a toy hauler and sold the conversion, but I missed it. We still have the toy hauler and use it quite a bit for CMA (Christian Motorcyclists Association) events, but sometimes it gets aggravating dragging around a 38' toy hauler. I have decided to start another minimalist build so I can pull it to a weekend when my wife isn't going and I don't feel like taking the big toy hauler. We kept the cots from our first conversion (I really like them instead of building a bed and they are large enough for a fat guy like me) so they will be the basis. I will probably try to find a portable A/C this winter (the kind on wheels) so I won't have to build anything to support a window A/C or cut big vent holes in the cargo trailer. I can vent the portable A/C through the floor like I did on the first one. I originally thought about just an extension cord ran through an RV cable hatch, but have just about decided to go with a 30 amp shore plug wired into a small breaker box with a few 15 amp breakers. I don't think I will do any battery power, since it wouldn't run the A/C anyways. Don't know yet about plumbing. I will probably just go with a Thetford curve porta-potty and some sort of quick water supply for hand-washing, etc. in case I have to park a distance away from the bath house. I am looking for ideas and suggestions, since it is a wide open slate.

[NO David!]

Sounds familiar. Since you mentioned a 7x16 in your other post and a price point...

Here's my 7x16 Cargo Craft Expedition tandem. Factory added two slider windows/screen, single step, 36" RV door/window/screen and full door screen, 4 stab jacks, extra roof vent, delete wall vents, complete set of vertical e-track. ~ $ 4,500.00 delivered to my local dealer, Mathis Trailer and Equipment. This was in 2012. The trailer has lived outside the entire time, one leak in the middle clearance light "curve" of the fiberglass nose cap, (not a build quality issues), otherwise water-tight the whole time. I recall Cargo Craft brags about their leak testing rig. Every trailer goes through this big car wash setup to check for leaks. Expedition is typically a drop axle setup, and the heavy duty build, rounded roof sides, and flat nose, which I preferred. They installed Explorer standard axles/springs at my request. 1" welded tubing 16" walls/24" ceiling, standard screws fasten real plywood inside, Frame is way overbuilt for my needs.

I chose barn doors, standard springs for extra ground clearance, and I chose a color to match my tow rig at no extra cost. As you will see, there were a few issues, mostly communication related, but Cargo Craft sent a crew about 5 hrs drive to my house to correct it. There well may be a nicer finished trailer manufacturer, but this one has been tough, gravel roads, highway miles, tows great. I think I would go with them again, because I know what to expect, and with better communication, all should be well. I feel it has been well worth the purchase price, and when I see other trailers and construction, I think I have gotten "the mostest for the leastest".
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345

So there's an option, and your stated needs sound much like mine. We just added the Thetford curve, wife said it's a "life changing" experience for the good.

[James06]

One thing I haven’t seen on here is the best way to mount a refrigerator. I bought a 2.7 cubic foot one for$40 today and haven’t figured out a good mounting method yet. I thought about using angle steel, but would probably put a screw in a bad place on the refrigerator.

[hankaye]

James06, Howdy;

One thing I haven’t seen on here is the best way to mount a refrigerator. I bought a 2.7 cubic foot one for$40 today and haven’t figured out a good mounting method yet. I thought about using angle steel, but would probably put a screw in a bad place on the refrigerator.

Depends where you are going to mount it, really. If you choose a shelf with
another shelf above it you need only a small short piece of angle that you
only screw to the shelf it sits upon to prevent it sliding out. Tipping is prevented
by the shelf above. Same applies if you mount it to the floor, as long as there
is a shelf or structure above to prevent it rocking. Of course there should be sides
to prevent tipping in those directions as well.

hank

[James06]

I am probably going to put it in the center of the v and build cabinets around it, so side to side probably won’t be an issue.

[James06]

I picked up the trailer today and got it back home. Now to let the fun begin. I will post some pics when I fire out how to make them smaller.

[James06]

Here are a few pics: