NE Wisco Woodie Benroy #2

[TimC]

I came up with a plan which should solve my modification problem on my NT 5x8 trailer tongue. I bought the etrailer A-frame coupler which does not fit the angle of my NT tongue. Rather than reworking the tongue to fit the coupler and drilling different mounting points on the trailer frame I am going to use the method posted by 101camper. All credit goes to Denise (aka 101camper) from a post she submitted in August 2011 ( http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=45830&p=857544 ). It is a simple but genius solution to add a stable jack to the NT trailer. A simple template from cardboard to my local welding/fab shop should produce a very good mounting point for my Pro jack (same as pictured in Denise's photo. When I get that mounted I will add a photo.

Here is her photo from her post...



Please, if this is not acceptable to post her photo let me know and I will remove it. I am giving full credit to Denise on this idea...

[TimC]

Floor and wall progress...

Floor bottom sealed


Floor right side up


Close-up of method to deal with NT trailer bolt heads




Walls with exterior ply rough cut. Need to be routed flush after some repair to the profile after my router slipped under the template when routing. No significance to the black 1x lumber. Recycling some old cedar trim which came off a remodel job.





Next up... Rip roof spars, finish interior of walls with insulation and Wiley window frame backing, wire for clearance lights then complete sandwich with interior plywood.

[TimC]

Just had a reminder to slow down and think before I cut. I bought BCX (sanded one side) ply and was cutting out a rough fit for my inside walls and forgot that I needed to match the second one as a mirror image. Now I have one interior wall with a nice surface to finish and a "C" side on the other wall. Oh well, I've made bigger mistakes. $16 wasted and a 110 mile round trip to pick up another sheet. Fortunately I decided it was a good time to order my 1/8" lauan for my ceiling/roof sheathing so it won't be an additional trip. I have plenty of other tasks to work on while I wait the ten days for my lauan to ship form Eau Claire to Escanaba!

[KCStudly]

I'm sorry, it's my fault. Yesterday I almost posted to remind you to be sure to make opposite hand parts, but I figured, nah, that's too easy, he doesn't need to be reminded. It is so easy to 'just make two' and forget to flip for the mirror image.

[TimC]

I'm sorry, it's my fault. Yesterday I almost posted to remind you to be sure to make opposite hand parts, but I figured, nah, that's too easy, he doesn't need to be reminded. It is so easy to 'just make two' and forget to flip for the mirror image.

Thanks KC... How'd you know I was looking for someone to blame?

I'm definitely open to reminders. Won't hurt my feelings one bit! I do the S. Fredrick inside out method and wanted to rough out the interior skin to eliminate as much material I could so routing out the rabbit/dado (whatever it's called) would not be so stressful on my router. It's actually a good thing it happened. I took the time this morning to sit back and go through my next steps to avoid making too many mistakes and be a little more efficient.

Insulation installed and wire troughs cut for clearance lights and porch light switch. My clearance light wiring as well as all navigation lighting is strung through the roof instead of along the trailer frame. The brake lights are mounted in the hatch, so, as long as I'm going through the hinge area on the hatch I might as well continue through the roof spars to the tongue.


More for the benefit of those who said "What?" in reference to what I was trying to accomplish above, roughing out the interior skin so I wouldn't have to stress the router as much. I'll be routing the inside-out dado into the framing about 1/4". The pencil mark is the finished depth. That's 3/8" interior plywood skin plus the 1/4" into the frame for a total of 5/8" leaving about 7/8" of meat on the wall to attach spars and roof sheathing.
The void on the bottom edge of my wall shown in this view will be filled with 3/8" BCX, same as the rest of the wall. My wall height is 54" requiring a splice on the bottom of my walls to finish them off. The seam is hidden by the mattress when installed.

[TimC]

Some minor accomplishments today. Got my clearance lights today, so, made a jig to route out the recess. I own a limited supply of hole saws so this method works well. Place template into position, drill out smaller hole with holesaw, Use a following bit to follow the template to finish the profile of the recess. Works great.





And routed out channels for porch light wiring and clearance light wiring while I was at it.



Next tasks...
Wait for lauan to arrive so I can pick up interior sheathing replacement that I screwed up the other day along with some fasteners, canvas, etc. Yes, this will be a PMF on the complete exterior with some cedar trim. Not exactly a woodie as noted in the title of this build journal.

[TimC]

I'm thinking I should update this thread. Life happened and I lost track of time. After putting the build away for the winter in 2016 I was unable to get back to it. After seeing TD#1 in action last summer my brother asked about buying TD#2 as is and I jumped at the idea. Someday maybe I'll build TD#3, I don't know though. Too much fun upgrading and adding features to #1.

[Billinthedesert]

Tim, will your brother let us see TD #2 when complete? thanks for the build along.

[TimC]

Tim, will your brother let us see TD #2 when complete? thanks for the build along.

I'll definitely update this when it's road worthy. We have a trip planned for Sept 11th so I hope it will be ready. He's currently mounting doors and building the hatch. I'll go down and help him in a few days with roof and wiring.

Tim