6x12 aluminum build

[Mdcamper]

Just picked this up a couple of weeks ago. 6x12 with 6'6" height, RV screen door, and 4-corner jacks, no interior plywood so I can insulate and run wire first.

I'll be dividing the rear portion off from the rest for an outdoor-only 'kitchen area' with just a counter and residential mini-fridge. No plumbing or gas lines in the plans. The front will have a convertible dinette/bed for the wife and me, with bunks above on vertical e-track for my two boys. I got the side compartment door for a 5k' window AC unit when needed. We are working through finish ideas now. Just started underfloor insulation. Hopefully I'll have it mostly complete by spring.

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[Mdcamper]

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[hankaye]

Mdcamper, Howdy;

Welcome to the addiction. Nice looking canvas to create on.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

hank

[wyldesyde007]

That's a sharp looking trailer to start with!

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

[McDave]

Real nice trailer. Have fun and Good Luck!

McDave

[onehoser]

nice base to start from. my next build will be a 6x12 vnose. have fun, subscribed

[Mdcamper]

Thanks! I’ve gotten a lot of great ideas from this site and a few YouTube vids as well. I even discovered this trailer manufacturer from this website while searching for aluminum builders. Them being in NH was an excellent excuse to go up and get in some great hiking in the White Mountains at the same time, one of my favorite places to vacation. Looking forward to the fit-out!

[deceiver]

I've got that same trailer and did a build posted here on this forum.

My only complaint was the shortness of the hitch. I see yours looks extended with a piece above the hitch pipe. Was this the way they made it? It's very different from mine.

[Mdcamper]

I've got that same trailer and did a build posted here on this forum.

My only complaint was the shortness of the hitch. I see yours looks extended with a piece above the hitch pipe. Was this the way they made it? It's very different from mine.

I definitely read your build thread when I was searching for info on aluminum manufacturers.

My hitch is stock. Looks to be the same length as yours, it looks like they now add an additional piece to bring the hitch higher off of the ground. It's still fairly low, I had to use all of the 6" adjustable drop hitch I had to tow level.

[deceiver]

I've got that same trailer and did a build posted here on this forum.

My only complaint was the shortness of the hitch. I see yours looks extended with a piece above the hitch pipe. Was this the way they made it? It's very different from mine.

I definitely read your build thread when I was searching for info on aluminum manufacturers.

My hitch is stock. Looks to be the same length as yours, it looks like they now add an additional piece to bring the hitch higher off of the ground. It's still fairly low, I had to use all of the 6" adjustable drop hitch I had to tow level.

What's happened with mine is when I'm in a tight situation where I have to cut the wheel a lot to back up, like when I came upon a low bridge on a back road, the end of the truck bumper hit's the diamond plate and makes a dent. I have one on each side of the V. A tongue needs to be at least the length of 1/2 the bumper. That way if you turn you can push the camper to the side but the bumper won't hit the camper itself. I contacted them to see if I could add some length to it but they said no.

There are ball extensions but the more you add to the length of the hitch on the truck side the more tongue weight it makes. The formula is 100 lbs per every 12 inches. Adding it to the trailer side doesn't do this. It's n issue for me and I have no solution. I won't repair the diamond plate, no sense as it may just dent again.

[Grummy]

P R E T T Y T R A I L E R !

I really like the silver. I almost went white when I bought mine, but my wife jumped in and pointed out how much better silver looked. Looking forward to your interior.

[Mdcamper]

I finished insulating under the floor; 2" XPS glued and screwed to the subfloor between frame rails. Rear wall is framed out and 90% of the internal wiring is done for lights and a few receptacles. Now working on insulating the rest and interior siding to follow...

[deceiver]

Hey, is it perspective of the picture or are you using really large diameter wire for lights? It almost looks like battery cable. If so, and I'm not mistaken, the DC of these light, and most other stuff for that matter only need a smaller wire. It would make it a lot easier to work with too. Size 12 would probably be over kill. 16 for most stuff would be more than enough.

[Grummy]

Looks like multiconductor cable... perhaps extension cord. Perhaps it is for 120v circuits. Indeed, for most 12v stuff, especially for LED lighting, you sure do not need much.

I ran 12 gauge multi-conductor for all my 120v. I did not want to end up with an electric heater running on 14g. And, mine too was just a new 100' cord cut into the lengths I needed. It was cheaper to buy a 100' cord on sale than buy the wire by the foot. You just should make sure you do not end up with "copper coated aluminum" which I don't think is showing up in extension cords, but I know it is showing up in wire sold for low voltage applications.

I'm not sure who or what would "police" the wiring of these conversions, but I know I feel better with stranded in any mobile application. I know that code for marine applications (like yachts) demand stranded because it can flex instead of break, so my little land yacht got stranded Extension cord... I couldn't afford actual Marine cable.

[Mdcamper]

The wiring is all for 120v, and it is a cut-up 14g extension cord. Stranded wire is superior for vibration/flexible applications. I am leaving the factory 12v lights which can operate off of my truck batteries, but no battery system in the trailer. 15a breakers on the 14g and then I will have one 20a breaker with 12g wire feeding a receptacle for either the window a/c or electric space heater as necessary.