HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

[Tommy B]

Dicor came like that Featerlite. I used approx. 1/2-3/4 tube I think. That stuff is STICKY.

Quickly, I learned a painful and potentially dangerous lesson today.. DO NOT RELY ON MAGNETS TO HOLD UP THAT CURTAIN/LID ASSEMBLY.

I almost put a hole through my SKULL as the assembly came crashing down and an untrimmed machine screw that hit the top of my head. Nocked me to my knees and bleed a good bit.

So.. I did drop off the curtains to be hemmed up proper. I also will purchase those wood/machine bolts that will screw up into the T&G and allow for wing nuts.
My head hurts darn it.

But listen this will be solid and practical in short order.

[featherliteCT1]

Thanks for the Dicor info. Your trailer is looking good.

[Tommy B]

So I finally got around to finishing this shower system set up.

The curtain/Lid assembly attaches first by magnets two hold in place while you screw on the two wing nuts to secure the set up FIRMLY.

The shower curtain has been hemed up 6 inches so it wont clog the bilge pump anymore.

I used an alumanum D ring to secure the soap dish/wash cloth hanger. That is where the shower head rests while not in use also. I previously had it mounted on the wall with a coat hanger but proved to be dangerous for the back of the head and face while moving around in there. Just info.

This system works great in this 6X12 trailer. Totally sets up and breaks down in minutes.

also.......one moment..I will post a very cool web site that allows you to see what my/YOUR floor and back wall/ramp would look like with various lament flooring. some computer program even furniture in the picture is no problem.

[Tommy B]

Those wing nuts.

Here is the really cool web site to visualize your flooring.

I want to do this asap.

https://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/fl ... visualizer

[Tommy B]

Ok,first camping trip just three weeks away, one way or another.

I really need a drop down counter under Neath the window for counter space AND to prevent the right side handle bar/throttle breaking the window when the bike is in the chock. When folded up, it would cover the window. Looking at 3/4 plywood. 58" X16" should do it. Any advice, anyone. I may use what I did before but was looking for advice.

Also, a picture of the ceiling with the wing nut studs exposed. I am 5' 8" and I do not hit them.

[featherliteCT1]

The shower rig looks quite functional
You might think about installing rubber plugs over those wing nut bolts in case flboy (a tall boy) is in your trailer ... those bolts would make a nasty gash in the head. Your local auto parts store likely has a package of rubber plugs for vacuum hose fittings in various sizes that would work ... cheap... maybe $4 for a package.

[Tommy B]

The shower rig looks quite functional
You might think about installing rubber plugs over those wing nut bolts in case flboy (a tall boy) is in your trailer ... those bolts would make a nasty gash in the head. Your local auto parts store likely has a package of rubber plugs for vacuum hose fittings in various sizes that would work ... cheap... maybe $4 for a package.

Thank You! With a little imagination I can see hair and skin on those exposed screws. Cringe to think of it. I have something in my shop as you descibe and will screw it over those threads I think.

On this fold down counter. I see no other way to support the fold down counter ( that will also cover the window when folded up ) but to use small chain or rope. Fold down legs seems cumbersome. Guess I will have to buy a full 3/4 inch sheet of plywood and rip it right to fit. Frame the window top and bottom with 2x4 or 2x8 to allow room for hinges on the bottom. Should work. Gold chain and cherry stain.

[beachguy005]

On those studs and wingnuts, I would reverse the setup and use T-nuts in the ceiling and butterfly screws. When not being used you'll have the nuts flush to the ceiling and no issue of scalping anyone.

[Ol' D]

Tommy, Hi. I was in my local Home Depot and saw a finished wood work top for a rolling tool cabinet that looks like it might make a nice small table. It may be too small for what you need but thought I'd mention it. It's 26in. by 18in. and costs $20. I really like your build, full of great ideas.

Dan.

[onehoser]

slip some rubber hose over those overhead screws and cut the hose an extra inch longer, much more forgiving than metal

[flboy]

On the way back from Chengdu. Should be home Saturday AM early. Camping in a few weekends. Need a break!

Shower looks good. Magnets of the right strength and distribution should have worked, but glad you have something that works for you and will not ever fall on you in any case.

Some eTrac and eTrac hinges may work well for the table and be easy to remove also. I did something similar in my old CTC.




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[Tommy B]

Good Morning all,

I will digest all the responses, its early

Thanks, I actaully did think about an E-trac but not sure if they have a fold up but will see.

Reverse T nuts, Going to check that out

Oi d, yes sir that's a tad small. IDK on this like the shower but I will find a way. Thanks for the thought.

But it sure helps to have this site!

Donnie its way past time to cut loose but at least the weather has FINALLY turned a page!

[Rainier70]

Not sure how large of a table you want to put in. I used a small drop down table from Ikea in my smaller 6X12 CT. It was about 3 ft long and about 2 ft deep. It folded down to 3 inches against the wall. It worked great. Here are some early construction pictures with it mounted to the wall.






Here is a link to a different Ikea model with several pictures. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bjursta-wa ... -80217524/

The under table support is very simple and could be adapted to your own table top or use two or more supports for a longer table.



Another consideration is a small 2.5 X 4 ft like this one that I got at Costco. It is adjustable in height, light, and can be used outside too. Easy to make a slide in holder on the wall with just a couple of latches to hold it in.

[flboy]

Tommy, theses brackets would work well too. I used a smaller version for my shelf in the back which you have seen. Can get these as large as you need and they are sturdy.

Just get the size you need for the table surface depth with a few inches of overhang. A 16" or 18" bracket with a 18" or 20" table surface depth would work well right there IMO.

I may have enough furniture grade 3/4" plywood to cut you a nice top leftover from my table top project. I could route the edges similar to the dinette top I made for my CTC. Let me know if you are interested and give me the table top dimensions you need and I will see If the piece I have is big enough.I'd just need to dig around in my messy shed.








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[beachguy005]

If he wants to have the table open down, so that it covers the window when it's up and stored, it's pretty easy to do.
A horizontal 1x3 at the working table height will be needed to mount the hinges, and allow 3/4 inch spacing to account for the window trim when the table is up and secured.
Another 1x mounted above the window will give the table a 3/4 inch clearance at the top. Use one of the shower's stud and nut through a hole in the table top to secure it for storage.
For legs, the easiest would be just use a couple screw in leg mounting plates with legs to correct height. It takes 30 seconds to screw in a pair of legs. Folding legs would work also. I wouldn't use chain as they'll always be in the way when using the table.
I have a similar design and added a pull out section under the table top with full extension glides. Twice the size when open.