Intro and title, “motobox that my wife would camp in”

[BigDave_185]

I’ll take a photo and see if that helps


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[BigDave_185]

Does the wall sheeting go below the plane of the flooring ? Do I need to pull floor up to get to screws holding the wall sheeting in?


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[BigDave_185]

I guess this answers my question with a pry bar


Next question?

Windows and prewire ideas? Thinking the grey conduit I have that’s 3/4 dia might work. Run a line down center of roof, a few drops from ceiling to walls. Any other suggestions. I’ll draw up a basic layout tonight.


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[McDave]

Hey Dave,
I did not have to remove floor to get interior walls off. I had a very "gappy" trailer. (Pace Journey) So I just pulled off the int. walls and used 1" rigid plus some "metalized" bubble I had from floating pool cover project. 1.25" space between walls. All my wiring is in the weird transition space between wall/ceiling, rounded corners on roof and front verticals. I opted out on windows, 6x12 trailer. Just a peephole in door and 1 in each wall, and vent/fan/light combo and rooftop A/C.
Glad to see ya going on it. Good Luck. Hows that new home?
PS. those pics are HUGE! thought I was looking at rock formations not wafer board.

McDave

[BigDave_185]

What are the group thoughts on this type of heater in our trailers?

Mr. Heater Corporation F299730 Heater, One Size, White and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPZ59U2/re ... eEb1MA9KDV

Vs a fridge on top of a heater like every other trailer? While I greatly admire Flboys set up I am not sure I want to go that whole route for heat,

I was satisfied with a dome Tec or similar arb fridge option in my mind but always open to suggestions from folks with my experience


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[BigDave_185]

Progress pic


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[hankaye]

BigDave_185, Howdy;

Had a heater similar to the one in your link in a previous RV. Uses a good amount of propane,
heats like a champ but you need to crack some windows as well as an overhead vent to keep
from co2ing yourselves and the interior from sweating enough to fill your water tank. Mine
was a back-up for emergencies in the winters of Central Utah.

hank

[BigDave_185]

BigDave_185, Howdy;

Had a heater similar to the one in your link in a previous RV. Uses a good amount of propane,
heats like a champ but you need to crack some windows as well as an overhead vent to keep
from co2ing yourselves and the interior from sweating enough to fill your water tank. Mine
was a back-up for emergencies in the winters of Central Utah.

hank

So sounds like not the best option being it’s not fuel efficient.
Second option or recommendation?


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[BigDave_185]

Three pieces of insulation up.

What direction did you put the foil ? I went with towards the inside. No reason other than it’s logo free. Should I change it?

Jumped down a wiring hole. Apparently standard wiring for a seven pin give yellow to the turn signal on left side. But it’s not

This from ^^^^ this


On the hunt for reverse lights which from the truck side are center pin. Center pin on my Harness is yellow and cut off at the brake battery box. So I guess I need to run some yellow wire to the back of the trailer to power up a reverse light.

[McDave]

Hey Dave,
Here is a link for 7 blade wiring. Might be some help.
https://www.ajtnt.com/Info/7-Way-Diagram

Is that insulation foil 2 sides? If not I guess you need to decide if more important to keep heat in or out?

Not too sure about that type of heater, but I use the Wave catalytic safety heater. The catalytic heat does not produce Co2 and there is not really a flame, but it does consume oxygen, so you need to leave a vent cracked to allow fresh air in. My trailer is much smaller, (6 x12) but this does a hell of a job even in Montana. I always end up turning it down to low after a short time. The radiant heat feels like the suns rays heating objects/people rather than air. I have never had any moisture problems and fuel consumption seems pretty low. You might require a larger unit but the 3000btu works well in my case. Here is a link.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Olympi ... ected=true

Does it make sense to put the reefer over the heater? I don't see it that way. Unless you have to for space considerations. I have a small Norcold 12/110 volt but its over the sink/ microwave at eye level.
PS latest pics are the right size.

McDave

Edit: here is a PDF for the heater
http://vagabonders-supreme.net/Wave_Cat ... _Guide.pdf

[Modstock]

Hello from another Utah'n . I'll be watching this build, whatcha think about those LOOK trailers. Any flaws or other things to be concerned about ?
Always wondered what the gaps near the floor are like.



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[BigDave_185]

Hey Dave,
Here is a link for 7 blade wiring. Might be some help.
https://www.ajtnt.com/Info/7-Way-Diagram

Is that insulation foil 2 sides? If not I guess you need to decide if more important to keep heat in or out?

Not too sure about that type of heater, but I use the Wave catalytic safety heater. The catalytic heat does not produce Co2 and there is not really a flame, but it does consume oxygen, so you need to leave a vent cracked to allow fresh air in. My trailer is much smaller, (6 x12) but this does a hell of a job even in Montana. I always end up turning it down to low after a short time. The radiant heat feels like the suns rays heating objects/people rather than air. I have never had any moisture problems and fuel consumption seems pretty low. You might require a larger unit but the 3000btu works well in my case. Here is a link.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Olympi ... ected=true

Does it make sense to put the reefer over the heater? I don't see it that way. Unless you have to for space considerations. I have a small Norcold 12/110 volt but its over the sink/ microwave at eye level.
PS latest pics are the right size.

McDave

Edit: here is a PDF for the heater
http://vagabonders-supreme.net/Wave_Cat ... _Guide.pdf

I’ll give that heater some consideration, that siZw I could always add a second if need be.
The insulation maybe I’ll do ever other panel inside - outside so I get the happy medium. Would there have been any differences if I had purchased the pink hard foam with no foil backing?

Dave I will also go back through your build and look for your norcold pictures

[BigDave_185]

Hello from another Utah'n . I'll be watching this build, whatcha think about those LOOK trailers. Any flaws or other things to be concerned about ?
Always wondered what the gaps near the floor are like.



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I have had lots of enclosed trailers up and down I-15 and I think this goes great compared to others. However there are flaws

The frame is not straight/square. I can hold a string line down the side of the trailer and it gaps one side an inch or more and the other side bows equal amounts
The floor seems tight the gaps seem fine, the wiring is a mess but that’s really only five wires. I had to retie my brake wires up to the frame. Zip ties were broken from the factory.

The upgraded axles are a must, and a larger jack are a must. If that helps

If you have a trailer build post a link


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[hankaye]

BigDave, Howdy;

BigDave_185, Howdy;

Had a heater similar to the one in your link in a previous RV. Uses a good amount of propane,
heats like a champ but you need to crack some windows as well as an overhead vent to keep
from co2ing yourselves and the interior from sweating enough to fill your water tank. Mine
was a back-up for emergencies in the winters of Central Utah.

hank

So sounds like not the best option being it’s not fuel efficient.
Second option or recommendation?


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My previous response was based only on my own experience. The unit in which
I had that was a 1990's model. Newer times and better equipment and maybe
I'd go with one myself. Here's a link to a good video about the Pros & cons of
just about all types of heaters;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pgYW2xQwho

My choise is a propane installed heater like the ones you'd find in an RV. Both
Suburban and Atwood make them. They have different sizes for different amounts
of cubic footage. The unit you have considered, when in use, actually fills the unit
with heat a slow process. My old unit was a 26 footer and when I had to use the "ventless"
(which requires at least 1 window cracked open and a roof vet too, it took over
an hour before I could take my coat off and another 1/2 hour before my feet could feel
the warm air.

hank

[BigDave_185]

Copy that.


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