* I've switched over to heat-shrink butt connectors, standard-type and solder-seal type, and now have both heat-gun and propane torch heat sources to seal them. Where there's no need for heat-shrink, nor space to apply heat, I also have standard connectors, and my old favorite, Posi-Lock twist on types. I've also used Liquid Tape brush-on, where there wasn't any room to protect wiring any other way (note to self: I've got to get another can/bottle of it next time at Home Depot).
* Concerning license plate location: originally, my license plate was behind the left rear wheel, about 8" off ground, where it was subject to road debris, and could contact the ground if going over large objects (or over/into potholes). I had the same problem on my car-hauler, but removed it and mounted it on the folding ramp that was raised/locked in place at the end of the dovetail. I secured it there with carriage bolts, but on my TTT I made a bedliner-coated frame and installed it on the rear hatch, mounted 55" off the ground. In both cases, I used LED lighting over them. Also, a couple of years later, concerned about the visibility of my trailer at night, after a near-miss (even with conspicuity strips already on the lower rear), I installed a strip of LED's (with sequential signalling feature) high up on the hatch (within legal limits), plus some more reflective strips. Now, I am assured that my trailer can be seen from all sides (reflectors all around, incandescent and LED running lights).

- high-mounted license plate, LED's, and conspicuity strips.jpg (101.09 KiB) Viewed 2783 times