Need quick answers on gluing Baltic Birch to foam.

[Tom&Shelly]

But it is -10 F out!

When I was your age, that was a nice 4th of July day.

T

I remember waiting for the school bus when it was -10F. Had to walk a quarter mile to the bus stop, and it was uphill (both ways!)

Tom

[printer]

But it is -10 F out!

When I was your age, that was a nice 4th of July day.

T

Yeah but these old retired bones have a hard time straightening up once they have been bent for a while. Might accidentally rock backwards and end up in a snowbank.

[Modstock]

As for your size anxiety and towing at speeds of 75-80 MPH with a 4 cylinder. Might wanna re-think that.

Most people see a trailer and want to pass it anyways. So why bother putting your vehicle through undue stress.
Kicking the trans down a gear alot will lead to a hot trans and failure.

I usually tow at 65 in the right lane and let all the people in a hurry pass.
Let em. It's less stress on your vehicle and you.

When I can I'll get up to 70-75 during a tail wind, downhill.
Sometimes during a strong headwind I stay behind a semi truck and let them break the wind.
(Think NASCAR drafting).

Just a towing tip for your future travels. Have fun and stay safe.

Sent from my H1611 using Tapatalk

[printer]

I am retired, I have no problem going 60. The last time I was in the US heading west to California in the mountains , it was night and I did my best to keep behind a set of tail lights to judge where the road was. We were all over the speed limit and I finally had enough, I slowed down and did my best in the dark. Came around a bend and a whole bunch of tail lights in a row. One of the cars that passed me went over the edge. I don't want to cause an accident with others passing me, on the other hand I still have an attachment to breathing.

[printer]

I hate screwing up. When I decided to skin the outside with Baltic Birch, it was with the thought my sister and family probably will be using it also. I built it a little more sturdier to take the odd little ding it would likely receive. After skinning with the Baltic Birch and weighing the sides it looks like I might go over my weight limit for the car. I am thinking maybe keep the frame and floor, do the rest in foam and PMF.

[tony.latham]

After skinning with the Baltic Birch...

How thick is the Baltic ply?

Tony

[printer]

It is 1/8", 10 lbs a sheet. Roughly 8 sheets, then the inside. Doesn't sound like too much but with such a light weigh budget I should have been more mindful of the pound here and there. I should be around 750 lbs over vehicle weight for trailer and supplies. If I were to start over the frame would be lighter, the floor maybe lighter where you won't be standing. I thought to use it also as a light cargo trailer so the inside was going to be skinned. May have to forgo that. Maybe knock off a couple of feet length off the back.

[printer]

So here we are for Mark 1.2. Ditching the sides and probably going all foam and PMF outside with it either inside or maybe 1/8" mahogany ply. Decided that I can do without the 2.5" 1/6" tubing.



Will fill in the cutouts I have put in the flor to accommodate the tubing. Did a lot of welding and filling in the areas I had between the spring channel and the rest of the frame. Smoked my 8" Makita cutting out the pieces. Oh well, it will be worth it in the end (I tell myself). I still have my 4 1/2 in grinder still. Will have to use it to clean things up after I take out some welds holding the inside piece still in place. Then weld her up and decide to never do this again.

[rjgimp]

Wow, I think I got whiplash reading this thread.

[printer]

Heck, how do you think I feel? I'm living it. Got the frame welded up and ready for some fresh paint. 135 lbs of "What the heck did I start?"

[printer]

Used a router to true up the cut out sections of the floor so I could spice in some pieces now the square tubing is gone. Because I used a section of the tubing to overlap the frame I had to route out a 1/8" depression where the extra metal was. I glued it in and every few inches used dowel plugs to go through the new section and the old so I was not just relying on the glue to hold them together. I will see how the bottom turned out tomorrow. I may even route one ply off on the bottom and top so I can overlap a ply of spruce across the joint. I don't like things coming apart when they are not suppose to.

[printer]

Want to have the springs underslung instead of on top of the axle. Took me an hour getting both nuts off. Turned fine part of the way and then two steps forward, one back, as if threading a rod. Trials and tribulation.



I was at the point where I really have to consider what I will have for windows. Thought I would just roll my own and looked at the plastic sheeting at Home Depot. Seems like the stuff is worth more than gold. I looked in the automotive section of our online buy and sell site and came up with this for $20. For sure using the side windows, will have to think of the other one yet.

[printer]

Asked the question in the foamie section but thought I might ask here to get other's opinion also.

"I am using 1 1/2" blue insulation foam. I plan to prime it with a paint that is good for all construction materials including metal. I will clean the galvanized sheet first with alcohol.
The angled galvanized sheet is to bond to the foam with Gorilla Glue. The inside of the wall is to be captured by the 1"x1 1/2" spruce. After primed the canvas is to be glued on using Titebond II.

Do I need to saturate the canvas all the way through with the glue or just glue it on and after dry soak paint into the canvas? Was thinking of slightly watered primer (depending on if it soaks in well) then a top coat of paint.

I plan on doing a test run on some material but thought I would ask first to gather the wealth of wisdom from others.

While I am here, might as well ask, I need to bond the insulation sheets together. Do I use Gorilla glue or Great Stuff, foaming both surfaces and once it bubbles up squeeze them together?"

[QueticoBill]

You mention above canvas one side and ply opposite. In my experience and research with stressed skin structures, balance - same material both sides - helps prevent the panel bowing from humidity and (lesser) temperature changes. Just a caution.

[printer]

You mention above canvas one side and ply opposite. In my experience and research with stressed skin structures, balance - same material both sides - helps prevent the panel bowing from humidity and (lesser) temperature changes. Just a caution.

You do realize I hate you.

I did want the interior sheet to act as a load bearing member since I was going to do the interior in mahogany anyway. I wish I knew how much of a problem it would be. I have read a few threads on foamies but I have not come across people mentioning it on their completed builds. Mind you, that is not to say it doesn't happen. I build acoustic guitars also and changes in humidity does change the shape of the wood so I get the concept. This simple trailer is getting more complicated as I go.

This is the modified concept taking in the foamie guys suggestions. That was pre-QueticoBill.