Does this battery look OK?

[tony.latham]

Here's a photo.

So basically, the pigtail is too long? I would either move the junction box farther back on the chassis, shorten the cable, or bundle it up under the chassis with several wire-ties.



Tony

[DoctahDeane]

Hey Tony - not sure if you will see this. Probably my last electrical question and I know it's basic (again) but in the spirit off measure twice, cut once - Fuse Block: the top section is negative and the bottom section is a total of 10 'To Load Positive" posts. I guess I was expecting to see a positive and negative pair in each case but looks like as long as negative and positive device wires (say from a USB port) are connected correctly, all should be good? Just seemed a little strange that on top there are 6 negative posts and down below 10 positives but I guess I could double up on top if I had lots of connections and still complete the electrical circuit? Anyway, just checking before diving in with all the parts. Your book gave me some ideas to upgrade the cabin and galley, too so thanks for that, too.

[tony.latham]

but I guess I could double up on top

You betcha.



As you can see in the photo, I did the same to keep all the wires on the bottom. It makes no difference.



Tony

[DoctahDeane]

but I guess I could double up on top

As you can see in the photo, I did the same to keep all the wires on the bottom. It makes no difference.


Tony

Beautiful! Alrightee then, good to go. Thanks very much for all the help. Pretty excited now with no place to go. In your book, you zeroed in on an area I was leaning to anyway so now I think I'll retrofit the galley to eliminate the sink in place. Seemed kind of goofy as it is and although the seller included a small pump in a box of parts it just seemed like overkill. Your comments about the process, including sanitizer just seems simple and straighforward. If I'm lucky, I'll free up enough space for a cooler. I have my eyes on an electric cooler and if I do that, maybe will run wire back to tow vehicle for a 12v port to keep that cool while driving. Not important at the moment. Thanks again!

[tony.latham]

Thanks again!

Another Idaho, "you betcha."

If you haven't already, I'd appreciate a quick and honest review of the book on Amazon...

Thanks,

Tony

[DoctahDeane]

Thanks again!

Another Idaho, "you betcha."

If you haven't already, I'd appreciate a quick and honest review of the book on Amazon...

Thanks,

Tony

Yes I did that shortly after purchase. Nice job on the book. Very nicely produced.

[tony.latham]

Yes I did that shortly after purchase. Nice job on the book. Very nicely produced.

Thanks a bunch!

Tony

[DoctahDeane]

I'm sorry this is where text gets challenging. So the 7 pin connector will charge the trailer battery by using the AUX wire to positive terminal on trailer battery and the charger might be used for say, solar? My understanding is that this arrangement would keep the trailer battery topped off while driving. Then, I suppose I could use a Genius charger to charge battery from solar, if NOT driving?

Well... yes and no. Your tow vehicle will charge the battery while towi ng. But the Noco Genius is used when you have access to 120V.

For solar, you need a solar controller (plus the panel of course). Mine's a Renogy Adventurer but there are lots on the market.



Tony

Tony - what does that rocker switch do? I got a little DIY kit last night and there's one of these included NO DOCUMENTATION and the string thing is that there are three leads off the back. I'm assuming hot, ground and possibly something to light up the little LED indicator, but not sure. But really wondering what I could use it for?

[tony.latham]

...what does that rocker switch do?

I've got it wired to my Propex heater which has a tiny, but annoying constant drain so I can shut it off when we are not going to be using it.

Yes, the third wire is the hot wire for the LED light.



Tony

[DoctahDeane]

Can you recommend a multimeter or source and also wondering how that gets wired in to the overall setup? Does it just run to the fuse box or does it need direct connect to battery?

Doc:

I used this meter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has to be wired with the main negative wire run through the included shunt. I did it as in this bottom diagram:



I like the meter but you should also look at this one: (Thanks to Bill Osborn)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTKYFTG/?coliid=I301972QUD0GSE&colid=3DIEP78B3UWPM&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I do hope my book helps. If you wouldn't mind giving it an honest review on the big A, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Tony

I did a test run this morning and got this working on my bench. I was going to go simpler but when it lit up, well, I was sold. Curious - when all installed is the display on all the time? I assume after some time interval it goes dark? And if that is true, what wakes it up? The documentation is little unusual.

[tony.latham]

Curious - when all installed is the display on all the time?

Did you get the one that I used or the one that Bill Osborn came up with?

Both of them will use so little parasitic juice that it would be hard to measure I think. With mine, I can turn off the back-light.

T

[DoctahDeane]

Curious - when all installed is the display on all the time?

Did you get the one that I used or the one that Bill Osborn came up with?

Both of them will use so little parasitic juice that it would be hard to measure I think. With mine, I can turn off the back-light.

T

I got the one you have, Tony - actually I also got one of those plates that lets you pop in things like a 12v power port, a USB jack and even a simple battery meter. That also has the toggle switch I asked you about. I was thinking that there might be a possibility to kill she current to the meter with that switch. But really? I should be practicing my mandolin instead, when it gets to that point.

So today, put in the battery pan, the battery and charger and (if I have a hole drill in basement) pop in the connector to shore power on the outside. At that point I'll be able to charge up and then move on to the fusebox.

I got answers to my question about gas danger and seems that it'll be OK under the trailer in the cubby that was built for that purpose. It's a deep cycle rechargeable and I saw something that said they need to be vented, danger Will Robinson but the consistent feedback I got says don't worry, so I won't I figure if I keep the door open and the inside floor hatch cracked during recharging, that should be OK.