Viking/Clipper Express 9.0TD V-Pkg

[mro1023]

Greetings TNTTTers! Proud new owner of a 2020 Viking TD9.0 w/v-pkg checking in. This is a teardrop / tiny poptop hybrid that's powered with 110V (input & battery charger), 12V battery, and propane, is light (1200 lbs dry), easily fits in the garage, and includes nice features like city water hookup, 16gal water tank, 6gal water heater, on-demand water pump (w/sink & outdoor shower), furnace/heater, lighting, & bluetooth stereo. Also included were a fridge and A/C, which I removed because I don't see myself using those and to make room for some storage. I'm in the process of patching up the resulting holes (and also securing some loosely done wiring that was exposed after removing them).

The fridge was easy to remove, it was secured to the bottom from the inside with 2 wood screws that are easily accessible from the exterior when you remove the plastic covering behind the unit. The A/C wasn't as easy, so I thought I'd post some notes for any others who might encounter the same situation.

- The A/C itself is not bolted in place, but is held down by a metal band around the top of the unit. This band is secured to the bottom from the interior with 2 screws, but they're not accessible until after you remove the unit, so you basically have to wiggle and pull and slide the unit out from the exterior (at least that's how I did it).
- Note that the power cord on the front of the appliance (on the inside) also helps hold the unit in place with leverage, so you must first remove a small plastic piece holding the cord in its place of leverage for the unit to be free to pull out. This piece is easily visible and held in place by 2 small screws.
- After that, go back outside and use a flathead screwdriver from the bottom to help dislodge the unit and coax it on out.
- You'll also have to simultaneously hold the metal band in place to prevent it from grabbing hold of the top of the unit while you inch the A/C out (I did this using a long wrench, but any blunt-ended object that can fit in that narrow opening will work).

Looking forward to using this thing and for more projects and improvements on down the road...

Cheers
-Mike

[PCO6]

Hi Mike. We have one too and started using it a little over a year ago. It's been great! Ours is an early 2019 base model; the V-PKG had not come out yet.

I've made a lot of modifications to ours and have more planned. I also removed the AC (40 lbs.) and the fridge (32 lbs.) as we didn't need them and don't often camp where electrical power is available. As you said the fridge was easy but the AC unit was a bit of a bear to get out. On the AC side, I used the plastic frame for the vent and sealed it off with a piece of sheet metal. On the fridge side, I used the original Dometic vent, attached a pair of hinges and made it into a pass through door. I store our Eccotemp L5 water heater in this area. When camping I take it out and mount it on the left side of the trailer. I also shortened the pull out 120V electrical cable (10 lbs.) and installed a SHURFLO water pump in its place.

Overall, these are good little trailers and a great platform for modifications.

Here's another TnTTT thread that might interest you. I've made a LOT of changes to mine since I last posted in this one. Some of the pics show some work in progress. Most of that is complete now … but there's always more to do!

Stew

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=71585

[RJ Howell]

I have looked at these and would have had greater interest if it wasn't a Forest River Product.. Design, mush like the NoBoundaries is great, yet.. FR builds them..

If these are Torsion suspension, I suggest beafing up the frame fore/aft of the point of connection. I've seen anywhere from using 1" tall to 4" giving not only that added support for dirt/forest roads but giving it a bit of a lift as well. I went 1" on the one I had (rPod by FR).



Have a good look at the tongue frame as well. The A frame on the rPod was less than desirable and needed some additional support as well (I did 1" tall here as well). Instead of going under the bed frame then went through the front cross beam.. ugh..

I sure any issues can be defeated and turn it into one heck of a trailer! It does have a major cool factor!

[tony.latham]

I suggest beafing up the frame...

How thick are their frame members?

Tony

[PCO6]

RJ - Both the V-PKG and standard model have a 2,000 lb. straight axle with brakes. The V-PKG has 235/75/15 tires AT tires. I added the same and Jeep wheels to my standard model which came with 13" wheels & tires. These weigh 1,080 lbs. which I'm guessing is a fair bit less than the rPods. I've kept my eye on the weight as I've removed and added things and I'm at about 1,220 now.

The tongue does go through the front cross rail of the frame and is welded to the side members about a foot back from the cross rail. The front cross rail is only 1"x3" channel. The side rails are 2"x3" box tube. I've cut 1/8" triangular steel plate gussets and will be welding them in to box this area in. Generally I agree that tongue "under frame" would be better.

Forest River products are what they are. Some aspects of this one are terrible (cabinetry, wiring, etc.) but they are a good base to work with. I've heard the same from some NoBo owners. The way we use ours is to get us and our stuff (kayaks, bikes, camp equipment, etc.) to a campground which we use a base from which to take off in my Jeep(s). The trailer will see some rough roads and trails but I'll definitely be cautious with it. We bought this thinking if we like it, it might be worth building a much stronger version of it from scratch. I might still do that but so far so good.

[PCO6]

Tony - The side rails and tongue are 2"x"3" box tube and I believe they are 12g. All of the cross rails are C-channel - from memory 1"x3" across the front and back 1"x2" otherwise. I've stiffened things up and plan t do more.

[RJ Howell]

RJ - Both the V-PKG and standard model have a 2,000 lb. straight axle with brakes. The V-PKG has 235/75/15 tires AT tires. I added the same and Jeep wheels to my standard model which came with 13" wheels & tires. These weigh 1,080 lbs. which I'm guessing is a fair bit less than the rPods. I've kept my eye on the weight as I've removed and added things and I'm at about 1,220 now.

The tongue does go through the front cross rail of the frame and is welded to the side members about a foot back from the cross rail. The front cross rail is only 1"x3" channel. The side rails are 2"x3" box tube. I've cut 1/8" triangular steel plate gussets and will be welding them in to box this area in. Generally I agree that tongue "under frame" would be better.

Forest River products are what they are. Some aspects of this one are terrible (cabinetry, wiring, etc.) but they are a good base to work with. I've heard the same from some NoBo owners. The way we use ours is to get us and our stuff (kayaks, bikes, camp equipment, etc.) to a campground which we use a base from which to take off in my Jeep(s). The trailer will see some rough roads and trails but I'll definitely be cautious with it. We bought this thinking if we like it, it might be worth building a much stronger version of it from scratch. I might still do that but so far so good.

Good to hear you know and are looking at these points! I only wish to see it last a long while for you.