M116A3 Build

[lfhoward]

Thanks Tony, your write up and the adapter part number are super helpful.
It’s definitely a HS1600. The orange ones I’ve seen online are called a 1600 Compact.

Can you let me know if this sounds right?

So, to use the heater, I’m going to need (Starting at the heater):
- the British to American thread adapter (for 1/4”) from McMaster Carr
- propane-spec Teflon tape
- a 90° elbow to point down towards the floor
- a section of 1/4” copper tube/pipe to go through the floor, & rubber grommet for the hole, & flare fittings
- a short propane hose
- a 2-stage regulator
- and last, the propane tank for my trailer

To just test my heater out, I’ll need, at minimum:
heater):
- the British to American thread adapter (for 1/4”) from McMaster Carr
- propane-spec Teflon tape
- a short propane hose
- a 2-stage regulator
- the propane tank for my bbq grill

[KCStudly]

I'm no expert when it comes to gas lines, but my experience with copper (and aluminum) hard lines (even annealed) is that they don't take double flares well. They tend to crack at the folded edge.

Maybe someone else with more experience than me will back me up on this, but I think you will be doing single flares.

[tony.latham]

a section of 1/4” copper tube/pipe to go through the floor, & rubber grommet for the hole, & flare fittings

After the British/U.S. adapter, I went with steel pipe to get through the floor. I put another elbow underneath to connect the feeder line from the propane tank which is rubber. I sealed the hole for the pipe with epoxy and after it was cured, I installed the pipe and sealed the gap with Lexel sealant.



Yes, you need a two-stage 11 WCF regulator at your propane bottle. Mine's on my tongue box:



I had to use two regulators (and two lines) since my cook stove uses 27 PSI.

Other than that, I think you've got it figured out.

We used ours a lot more than I thought we would. They are really nice heaters.

Tony

[featherliteCT1]

Tony,

What did you mean by "I sealed the hole for the pipe with epoxy and after it was cured, I installed the pipe"?
Thanks

[tony.latham]

Tony,

What did you mean by "I sealed the hole for the pipe with epoxy and after it was cured, I installed the pipe"?
Thanks

After I drilled the hole, I sealed the edges of plywood with epoxy to ensure everything was waterproof.

After the propane line was installed I sealed the gap with Lexen to keep the dust out of the galley.

Capish?

Tony

[lfhoward]

Thanks Tony, KC, and Featherlite. This is all good information. For the sections of pipe you did have to make, did you need to flare anything or was it all threaded connections? I think it’s a good idea to have a rubber line from the elbow below the heater over to the regulator on the tank. On my trailer this will only be a few feet.

[lfhoward]

One other curiosity I have is whether it’s possible to get an adjustable regulator. I ordered my HS1600 from across the pond in England, and over there the standard pressure is 14 WC instead of 11 WC like it is here. (US spec units have a different size propane jet.) Thus, the propane flow on my UK spec unit might be a hair slower with a US regulator. I don’t know if it will make a big difference. Thoughts?

[tony.latham]

I can’t think of the name of the U. S. distributor but I’d give them a call.

It used to be Westy Ventures and they were always responsive.

Tony

[lfhoward]

I can’t think of the name of the U. S. distributor but I’d give them a call.

It used to be Westy Ventures and they were always responsive.

Tony

I think maybe it’s VanCafe now. They have a good lineup of Propex stuff on their website at least.

[lfhoward]

I am having a bit of an issue with the door seal that I installed the other day. The front and top aluminum sills need to be repositioned to make a good seal with the door. That’s a job for another day!


With hurricane/tropical storm Isaias coming within a couple of hours, I wanted to do something to protect that seal. Well, wouldn’t you know, my new drip caps came in the mail right on time!

Holes measured and drilled.


Drip cap installed with Sikaflex and screws.


I factored in enough room so the door will open.


In the above pictures you’ll see I have been using a piece of 2x4 to protect the door from the fender.


I solved that problem with these stainless cable door catches.




Ready for some rain!


I will need to repair the aluminum flashing around the door to get a perfect seal before driving in the rain, but while stationary these drip caps should keep the seam dry!

[featherliteCT1]

Very creative!

[lfhoward]

Time to permanently take care of that leak.


This upper front corner was the problem area. You can see the gap.


Ripping out newly installed aluminum trim that is well Sikaflexed will destroy the trim! Luckily I had extra.


The trick was to reposition the trim about 2mm outboard of the trailer side to make a better seal with the door.


Speeding up the drying process. I can’t close the door until the Sikaflex cures.


Now there is no gap where the door closes against the front trim. Hopefully this holds up when driving in the rain!


One final touch... I put the plastic inserts into my edge trim and shaved off the blobs of sealant.

From this:


To this:


Ready to go camping on Friday!

[lfhoward]

Made it through quite a thunderstorm with the trailer on the PA Turnpike today. At times the rain was so hard that traffic slowed to 25 mph.

The side door was waterproof!!! I win.

[featherliteCT1]

Excellent!

[lfhoward]

Excellent!

Thanks!!!

The trailer pulled great and camping was a wonderful time. It was our first time getting out this summer, because of a combination of Covid risk and other health issues. We circumvented having to use the campground facilities by setting up a Kelty Blockhouse “privacy shelter” with a Luggable Loo and a Nemo shower bag. Worked great!!

I noticed that the Sikaflex along the bottom of the aluminum skins where it meets the military trailer is starting to get old and fail. Some Gorilla Tape fixed that issue temporarily so that we didn’t get any water ingress while driving in the rain. Looks like I have some waterproofing maintenance to do before too long. This seems to be par for the course every few years. (Separate thread on this issue in the “Skinning Secrets” section: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=72959)