Receiver tube rusty, thoughts?

[DoctahDeane]

Hey experts - hope all is well. I just bought an upgraded hitch - a Curt 45144 (https://www.curtmfg.com/45144) "cushion hitch. I greased it up according to instructions and when I went to remove the existing hitch, it was not easy - took some banging with a nine pound hammer, like Merle Travis. Anyway, got it out and inspected, and the receiver tube opening is a bit rusty but not dangerously so. The new Curt hitch does not slide in easily. Also, the new hitch has an included "anti-rattle" thing that the bolt runs through (through the receiver, the embedded bolt and hitch) which if anything, will make an even tighter fit. This is on a 9 year old Honda CRV that I installed the hitch on maybe 7 years ago. So: dilemma. First, before anyone reads me the riot act, given the virus and so forth, I'm only planning to do 2-3 hour trips for the remainder of 2020 - all local in New England. I've been sort of thinking of a vehicle upgrade - perhaps a Tacoma - but it feels stupid to say, "yeah the new hitch is a tight fit so I'll get a new/used car."

One thought I had was perhaps using lube grease on the inside of the receiver tube? I could clean it up a bit first with a screwdriver or putty knife - just to take off any surface bumps. It all seems silly because I just finished off my trailer and even found a hatch rainfly that'll work great for under a hundred bucks, so now I actually want to go somewhere.

Worst case, I guess I can put the old hitch back in and save the new one for the next vehicle but I was really liking the reviews about a smoother, more cushioned ride with this new Curt hitch.

Any feedback greatly appreciated.

[rjgimp]

I would probably take something like a piece of wood lath, wrap some sandpaper around the end of it, and give the interior of your receiver a thorough cleaning. Follow that up with a slathering of lube and then see how that new hitch fits in there.

[jkemp512]

a picture is worth a thousand words (hint, hint), but I also suspect it is just some surface surface rust.

repeating things from the 1st reply, I'd also probably clean it up with some emery cloth/wet-n-dry, and then probably spray down with some PB Blaster or 5-56 spray lubricant.

Short of getting rear-ended, I suspect that receiver hitch will outlast the vehicle.

[DoctahDeane]

OK, great guys - thank you both very much. In the future, I'll use the camera more. And that comment about rear-ending is appreciated because that was in the back of my mind as well. Have a good weekend, hope you are getting some fun in this summer!

[rmclarke]

Corroseal works great (or similar type product) if it's surface rust.....it chemically changes iron oxide to magnetite.
Used it on my old pop up tent frame; works super. (I didn't use their cleaner, just wire brushed it..then wash n dry.)

https://tinyurl.com/y6m39s75
{From Amazon ad: "Paint, prime and convert rust in one step - water based rust converter with latex metal primer."]

[jkemp512]

Corroseal works great (or similar type product) if it's surface rust.....it chemically changes iron oxide to magnetite.
Used it on my old pop up tent frame; works super. (I didn't use their cleaner, just wire brushed it..then wash n dry.)

https://tinyurl.com/y6m39s75
{From Amazon ad: "Paint, prime and convert rust in one step - water based rust converter with latex metal primer."]

Looks great!

I'm a big fan of Ospho, but I suppose chemically, those converters are all the same, or at least pretty darn close.

[GTS225]

You're going to be sanding on that receiver for a long time, trying to get that rust out of there. Set up an appointment with somebody local that does sandblasting. Take your truck there and have them blast out the inside of the receiver. Then, use a low cost implement paint on the clean metal. While you're out, pick up some anti-sieze. Slather it on the hitch insert and start developing the habit of removing the insert when you aren't actually pulling.

Sorry, that's just the nature of iron oxide. You'll be fighting with that insert every time you want to remove it, if you don't start taking it out when not actually needed.

Roger

[rjgimp]

While you're out, pick up some anti-sieze. Slather it on the hitch insert and start developing the habit of removing the insert when you aren't actually pulling.

Roger

Yup. Anti seize paste will save you oodles of trouble and some busted knuckles down the road and keeping the drawbar somewhere OTHER than in the receiver whenever you aren't hitched to something will save your shins from injury and your kids ears from being abused by the string of expletives that will pour from your mouth immediately afterwards.

Ask me how I know.

[DoctahDeane]

Yeah thanks for this advice too. I actually do not keep the hitch in the receiver - it's mainly a function of New England winters. Anyway, will clean it out tomorrow and this afternoon I did some research - I'm sure it's no news to you folks but wow, there's an actual formula to determine what sort of hitch to get. I was pretty excited about this "rocker" hitch that you actually lube and that pivots slightly (the Curt I mentioned in original post) - that part is all fine but the arm itself is a 5" drop which is too much as it turns out. After doing the math, what I need is a 1" rise. Sheesh! I love learning new stuff like this, though, I have to say. So now, mostly all good because I can take the previous hitch and swap the ball mechanism AND flip that over (was a 2" drop will now be about a 1" rise - or close enough). Besides cleaning up the receiver as discussed here, now I need to find a gorilla to separate the two ball mechanisms and then apply the 300 lbs of torque required. I do have a torque wrench but not a socket that big, nor do I weigh 900 pounds so I can't really lean in to it. Assuming a local car shop or parts store can help me with this.

[rjgimp]

Besides cleaning up the receiver as discussed here, now I need to find a gorilla to separate the two ball mechanisms and then apply the 300 lbs of torque required. I do have a torque wrench but not a socket that big, nor do I weigh 900 pounds so I can't really lean in to it. Assuming a local car shop or parts store can help me with this.

Put a long pipe on the end of the wrench handle. Every additional foot you place your hands away from the point of rotation is a portion of the 300# you don't actually need to apply. I can't remember the exact formula offhand but it is readily available online. If your pipe is long enough, you could apply that 300# of force with your pinky! LOL!

[Treeview]

There are coarse wire brushes that are square and made to fit inside receiver tubes. Look on eTrailer or another vender

Once you have the rust out it’s time to fit your receiver.

Clean everything so there’s no rust powder or gunk, clean metal surfaces

Carefully slip your hitch into the receiver tube until you feel rubbing. Slide it in and out a little so that the interference point rubs a mark on your hitch

Clamp the hitch in a vise and use a grinder to get rid of that high point

Continue doing this until you have a nice wiggly fit. You want a little play not a tight fit like a wheel bearing

Then paint and grease everything.

I never leave hitched in receivers when I’m not towing. They can rust in place. Worse...they are shin knockers

Remember...a two inch plug doesn’t fit into a two inch hole. There needs to be a few thousandths clearance

[DoctahDeane]

Well, I went down the street to the small RV place and the nice guy there took an air gun to the older hitch and even used a propane heater - totally seized. "You guys sell hitches with a 1" rise? "Sure, twenty bucks." Then we took the new cushioned ball i bought that was on a hitch with a 5" drop and got it all squared away. So, end of story - sacrificed the old hitch completely -> looks like that was gonna be true no matter what. And, was able to Frankenstein the new one I got and the 20 dollar new one. At the end of all this, I have a 5" drop hitch with no ball as an extra part. I'll try to give that to someone who can use it.

Took it out for a cruise around town and it's much better ride - very level. I learned a lot this week - especially that there's an actual math formula to help you determine what kind of hitch set up to get. Live and learn. Thanks for all the great advice. I understand I need to clean out the receiver and I do not (as said earlier) leave the hitch in. It's just New England snow and salt abuse. I did notice the pull was a little wimpy coming up the big hill to our house. Completely different issue but made me think of how the incremental additions of weight end up being significant. Here she sits, nice and level:

[GTS225]

You're not the first guy to sacrifice an insert on the altar of education. Had a buddy many moons ago that had one seize up. He went so far as to chain it to a tree, and attempt a drive-to-the-end-of-a-short-chain removal technique. Didn't work. Partially ripped the hitch out from under the truck. Broke it at the weld on the left side of the receiver tube. Problem is that with the insert in, the moisture, (and salt, dirt, etc.), stays right in there and decays what paint is on it, then starts on the metal. All "downhill" from there.

Referring to taking the insert out when not actually in use; there's a number of states that actually have laws directing folks to do exactly that. Sorry, I don't know which states, but I seem to recall seeing it in Iowa DMV statutes. (No, it's not really enforced that I'm aware of.)

Whoops! Just did a search, and found that there's a FAQ that says there is no specific law requiring removal in Iowa. Color me em-bare-assed.

Roger

[DoctahDeane]

You're not the first guy to sacrifice an insert on the altar of education. Had a buddy many moons ago that had one seize up. He went so far as to chain it to a tree, and attempt a drive-to-the-end-of-a-short-chain removal technique. Didn't work. Partially ripped the hitch out from under the truck. Broke it at the weld on the left side of the receiver tube. Problem is that with the insert in, the moisture, (and salt, dirt, etc.), stays right in there and decays what paint is on it, then starts on the metal. All "downhill" from there.

Referring to taking the insert out when not actually in use; there's a number of states that actually have laws directing folks to do exactly that. Sorry, I don't know which states, but I seem to recall seeing it in Iowa DMV statutes. (No, it's not really enforced that I'm aware of.)

Whoops! Just did a search, and found that there's a FAQ that says there is no specific law requiring removal in Iowa. Color me em-bare-assed.

Roger

Thanks a lot, Roger. My altar is getting much bigger.

[GTS225]

Oh, man! Now I'm really embarrassed. The spelling of your screen name suggests you might be a feminine biped, not a masculine one, and hold a doctorate, to boot.
If so, I apologize.

Roger