Legend 7x16+2V "Lucky" Build

[jaws_1972]

Say goodbye to the old:


..and hello to the new:


A little background: I do a lot of adventure and enduro/dual sport riding. I find tent camping on the adventure bike is pretty enjoyable and generally adds to the experience. However, after several years of tent camping at enduro and dual sport events I was ready for a toy hauler. Last year I sold my wife on the "RV" lifestyle and promptly found a 2015 Grey Wolf 19rr that fit both our needs. I really wanted the smaller single axle 18, however my wife was quick to point out that the 19 came with a vanity, LoL. So after owning the Grey Wolf for just over a year, I decided that it was just not me and sold it a couple of weeks ago. Part of me regrets parting with a perfectly good working trailer, while the other part of me is glad to be done with it, and the typical RV build construction.

I try to tell myself that I was going to get out of owning a camper and be done with the storage lot, etc. But the truth is, I had already eyed this beauty on CL and it was the final straw that prompted me to list the Grey Wolf. With a quick sale of the camper, and the cash just burning a hole in my pocket, I was heading west to "look" at this semi conversion. It wasn't perfect, and I probably shouldn't buy it, but two hours later it was hitched to my truck and I was heading east. The guy had done a really nice job in finishing the walls, adding a roof top A/C unit, awning, etc. All things I could have figured out, but really didn't want to. In not owning a welder the roof top A/C framing would have been a challenge.



So it's possible I have a head start, but we'll see how "lucky" it is. I already found some wiring not to my liking and started the "destroying" process. It's not possible for me to leave well enough alone. So I have come up with a new floor plan.


Hoping to get the fresh, grey and black water tanks installed this weekend. Along with some more wiring.


So with a lot inspiration from the threads posted by flyboy, chiefvintage, McDave, Karebru, ZColorado, and several others on this forum, I'm embarking on a journey that is quite frankly overwhelming. Wish me luck!

Oh, and for further inspiration, meet Ms. Maple who is convinced she's going wherever I am when I'm done with it.



- Jeff from Michigan who will have a lot of questions.

[flboy]

Hi Jeff. Best of luck with your build. That looks like a nice trailer and you have a head start. You sound alot like me.. I use to go to offroad/dual sport events and tent it, but getting older and comfort is more a premium. I still do the tent thing when I am moto-camping ... I enjoy it for sure.

I look forward to seeing your progress. Take care.

When I built my second CTC, the bathroom was the game changer for my wife. She loves the vanity also! Lol

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[jaws_1972]

Hi Don - Thanks for the feedback and agree it's definitely a head start.

Weekend progress was a little less than stellar, but it did move in the right direction. Friday night I ended replacing the rear A/C lines on the Suburban (TV). Good to have cold A/C again and it was the easiest task of the weekend as it was in my comfort zone.

Saturday I decided I needed to clean up the electrical and finish running the 12v & 110v lines before I could start framing the bath. After fishing one line between the wall and insulation, I decided the rest of the lines will probably get pulled through the cabinetry. Really don't want to pull the walls down, but that might be a necessary evil.

Sunday I installed the Ventline vent and LED dome light for the bathroom. Aligning holes in three different layers for the vent was really not enjoyable at all.

I did take a couple pictures that I'll try to post them later this week. Hats off to those that have done an excellent job documenting their builds. Definitely not so easy while you work. Although I did have all the windows shut and the a/c off. Not sure what I was thinking as it was a total sauna in there. My wife came in Sunday evening and asked why I didn't have the windows open? Next weekend I'll have the A/C running and maybe make better decisions.

A couple of questions if anyone has time.

• I'm going to be installing an access door soon. Has anyone done this with the interior plywood still installed? Same question for water gravity inlet hookup. I'm planning to attached them directly to the interior 3/4" plywood.
  


• When adding plywood braces for vents, access ports, etc, how do you attach the plywood to the stud or cross member? I used angle iron on the roof brace for the vent. The roof is curved so liquid nailing it didn't make sense unless I need to bow the plywood for the roof brace.

Not sure if I'm riding next weekend or continuing the craziness on the CTC. I only get 48 hours per week at home with the trailer - township rules. Probably a good thing to keep me sane, but it will take longer than desired. Which is probably true for everyone.

[CL3]

I'm learning NOT to sweat the small stuff. If you have up to 3/4 gaps at one side of your floor sheets. DO NOT drive 2hrs round trip to pickup 5 sheets 3/4 Marine Grade plywood (stupid expensive during Hurricane season! Just remove the screws, center them and use new fastners/holes!


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[jaws_1972]

Hi CL3 - Completely agree about not sweating the small stuff. That sounds like a painful experience with pulling the floor up.

I took a break and went riding last weekend. With a fresh perspective I realize I bought this trailer to be able to do a "quicker" build and continue riding and enjoying it. Just need to keep putting one foot in front of the other versus over thinking everything.

In the meantime here's a couple pics.


The 12v electrical that I cleaned up is in the middle box. I didn't like using the conduit, but this will be mostly covered and also give me access to the incoming 12v connections/breakers. My last trailer had all of the 12v connections under the frame, but this was already run inside on this trailer. As received the ground wires were all "Y" together with undersized 16 gauge wire, the break away trailer brake wasn't connected, and the power from the truck wasn't run to the converter/distribution box. This was all fixed and then in the box I added a 30 amp CBC Bussmann breaker from the incoming truck 12v. Also wired up my power tongue jack with a 20amp fuse. The left box is were the 30amp 115v shore power comes in and will be the backside to the shower.


Ventline fan on the inside (loose install for fitting). Added some small angle iron to support the plywood brace. I got the Ventline idea from flboy. Seems like a good buy.


Venline on the outside. I cleaned the roof with isopropyl alcohol and used self leveling sealant, maybe a little aggressively. The directions call for Butyl tape, but self leveling was easy and was used quite a bit on my last camper. We'll see how it holds up. Need to clean the rest of the roof.


Then fully installed on the inside with the LED dome light for the bathroom. When the walls are framed in the wires will go to 12v rocker switches. Sorry for the odd angle, can't really see the vent..LoL


If the wall wasn't finished it would be nice to run the wires behind it. However, there will be an electrical cabinet above the converter, so this will be covered. Just need to clean them up. I have a 30amp transfer switch and a 1200 watt pure sine wave inverter to add to the cabinet when it's done.

This weekend I decided to build some side entry steps for the house to knock off a "honey do" item before continuing work on the trailer. I should get some more work done on the trailer next week.

[flboy]

. The directions call for Butyl tape, but self leveling was easy and was used quite a bit on my last camper. We'll see how it holds up. Need to clean the rest of the roof.

The Butyl tape is needed to make a good seal between fan flange and the roof. Self leveling sealer is used also to seal the screws and provide a first line. I always use both for any hole I cut in the roof. .

Keep a good eye on that if you did not use the Butyl tape. Dicor self leveling sealer is not meant to be an alternate for the tape. They compliment each other as I understand it.

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[jaws_1972]

Keep a good eye on that if you did not use the Butyl tape. Dicor self leveling sealer is not meant to be an alternate for the tape. They compliment each other as I understand it.

Good advice and that's what I get for reading the directions after installing it, LoL. I figured instead of just pulling it up I would see how it does first. I will definitely keep an eye on it. Thanks!

[jaws_1972]

I think the weekend project came out nicely. My wife is deciding on the railings, so those will get done later. Go easy on me, I'm not a carpenter and haven't really done much wood working since high school shop class.



This is the side entry porch. My wife and I bought a "fixer upper" a couple of years ago and have been doing projects ever since. Originally there was a huge awkward structure here that was built in the late 70's or early 80's. I tore that down last year before the driveway was poured. Looks like I still need to clean up the bricks.

The trailer was used to get the wood. Already appreciate having an enclosed CTT versus a camper.


Roughed in structure.


Stringers in place. These were a hurdle for me and needed some "trimming and shimming" afterwards.


Finished product. It will eventually get painted after the wood dries so I used screws for everything.

[jaws_1972]

Progress on the trailer - The weight distribution hitch arrived, so that also got that installed over the weekend. The new RAM Gen 1 power jack is also shown in the pic.



I wasn't sure I really needed a WDH as the trailer pulls really good without one, but I thought it would be a good idea. The only problem is the super short tongue on the v-nose. I found a Reese 49912 round bar WDH that only needed 24.5" spacing between the bracket and the coupler ball. It looked promising, but after install I only have a little under 24". So I called Reese and discussed it with the technician. Of course they don't recommend going less than specified, but he did say that it may just be a little stiffer ride, or need less tension. I also asked about drilling a hole in the frame and bolting the bracket just aft of where it is now directly to the frame. There's plenty of room to get in the sweet spot of 24.5"-27.5" from the coupler. The tech was concerned the hole might elongate over time since all of the force is on the top 5/8" bolt. I completely understand his point, but it is a steel frame, and the entire trailer is pulled with a single 5/8" receiver hitch pin. If I go that route I would probably mark it with a paint, and then if it ever moves I'll just have a friend weld it to the frame.

[jaws_1972]

This weekend's project was the black tank install. Since it needed to be installed in the "V" of the trailer with limited space, I went with a 5 gallon by Class A Customs.

With the drain pipe I should have about 6 gallons of useable black water. Although it seems small, it has more capacity than the 5 gal portable Thetford 565E Porta Potti that I had originally considered. It will also be way more convenient to use and was about the same price when the cost of the Thetford Aqua-Magic V High Profile toilet is added in.

Here it is with the 3.75" hole cut and the bottom 3" seal added. I found the seal at a local RV surplus shop. It's likely equivalent to the Valterra seal. I actually trimmed the bottom of the seal lip to get it as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. It holds water and seals, so all is good.


Pre fitted with the top 3" seal and 1.5" vent grommet.


Since it's a "black" water tank I decided to paint it black. Before painting with Krylon I added a piece of tape to mask off a section for a visual tank level. It shouldn't be too obvious once installed.


Installed with steel angle iron (2"x1.5"). I was going to add some cross brackets, but the tank is so small they don't seem needed.


The other thing I did was straighten out the wiring again. I got rid of all of the metal P-clamps that the previous owner had used and went with Head Mount Zip Ties.

I didn't like the idea of any metal clamps rubbing on the wire insulation for a mobile application. I'll have to add pics another time.

[gnomadadventures]

Info on the ventless heater? For water or for heating the cab?

[jaws_1972]

Info on the ventless heater? For water or for heating the cab?

Actually I haven't bought one yet, and the reviews seem mixed. I was looking at something like a Mr. Heater or a Dyna-Glo. It looks like a direct flame unit is preferred versus a radiant heat one if you go that route.

Near term I'll just be using a 120V space heater.

[gnomadadventures]

hmm haven't seen that one. I've been looking at some as well. I'm leaning towards the Olympian. Just pay attention to the operating altitude. That Mr. Heater says its not recommended over 4.5k feet.

[featherliteCT1]

Thanks jaws!

I just ordered some of those zip ties.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com ... L._AC_.jpg

[jaws_1972]

Thanks jaws!

I just ordered some of those zip ties.

Welcome and I hope they work for you, I'm still a newbie at all of this. I will say they were easy to use and did a really good job of securing everything. Time will tell how they hold up, but I don't expect any issues.