Fusebox question

[DoctahDeane]

I have each individual item in my trailer on a separate 7.5A fuse in the fusebox. My water pump is on a 15A. There's nothing more i plan to add at this time, except a solar panel but that will not affect the fusebox. But it got me wondering about how to handle the addition of new items. How is that handled best? Does it ever make sense to have two devices that are never used at the same time on one fuse? Or, in the case of my cabin, I have two small reading lights for example (LED). Each has it's own fuse. Is it wrong, potentially, to have them both on the same post/fuse? Hard to imagine they'd be peaking out as they are LED and small. Or, big picture, does it make any sense to add a second fusebox? Like I said no plans to add anything now, but if I do in the future, I would like to do it safely.

[Benno]

7.5 amp is theoretically good for about 90 watts at 12volts.
I have all interior leds on one and exterior on another with 5amp.


Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[Tom&Shelly]

I have each individual item in my trailer on a separate 7.5A fuse in the fusebox. My water pump is on a 15A. There's nothing more i plan to add at this time, except a solar panel but that will not affect the fusebox. But it got me wondering about how to handle the addition of new items. How is that handled best? Does it ever make sense to have two devices that are never used at the same time on one fuse? Or, in the case of my cabin, I have two small reading lights for example (LED). Each has it's own fuse. Is it wrong, potentially, to have them both on the same post/fuse? Hard to imagine they'd be peaking out as they are LED and small. Or, big picture, does it make any sense to add a second fusebox? Like I said no plans to add anything now, but if I do in the future, I would like to do it safely.

Perfectly fine to have multiple low current items, like LED lights on a common fuse. That's how houses are done with room lights and multiple outlets (nowadays, they have circuit breakers instead of fuses, but it's the same principle).

I wouldn't wire high current draw items together on a single fuse assuming I'd only use one at a time. I used to rent a house built in the 40's that had a single 10 amp fuse for the entire kitchen. I always had to remember not to run the microwave and toaster together, or I'd blow the fuse. I also had to worry about when the refrigerator would kick on. It's not the way to go. Right now, you may think you'll only run one thing at a time, but what if...

Tom

[DoctahDeane]

Ha! Yeah now that I think back on various apartments, I might have been able to answer my own question. OK, guys, thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[MtnDon]

The nice thing about having two circuits for interior lights, is that IF one fuse does blow, you should still have the other light(s) working so you can still see.

[DoctahDeane]

The nice thing about having two circuits for interior lights, is that IF one fuse does blow, you should still have the other light(s) working so you can still see.

That's a good point, thanks. When I clean things up, I will keep this in mind.

[troubleScottie]

You might want to add 12vdc outlets. Running wires while building is easy. Running wires after completion is often difficult and aesthetically unpleasing. Most wires are in the floor, walls or ceiling. Adding outlet means you can add in other items. Not pretty, but connected.

Also you left out a fan. That might be the most important.

[DoctahDeane]

You might want to add 12vdc outlets. Running wires while building is easy. Running wires after completion is often difficult and aesthetically unpleasing. Most wires are in the floor, walls or ceiling. Adding outlet means you can add in other items. Not pretty, but connected.

Also you left out a fan. That might be the most important.

Sorry, I was unclear about that. When I acquired this trailer, the structure was done but no electrical, plumbing or propane - now all done. I have USB outlets, 12v power ports and yes, a fan in the roof. I have been lucky in my ability to have cable runs either hidden or nicely camouflaged. Solar early next week and then diddly stuff like tongue box latch adjustment and weatherstripping and I'll be in good shape. Now that I have feedback here, I'll also go in and clean up the fusebox which will also free up a little room in the under trailer electrical box for a bit of storage. Thanks for weighing in!

[ArtMini]

The nice thing about having two circuits for interior lights, is that IF one fuse does blow, you should still have the other light(s) working so you can still see.

I'm planning on A 6 fuse box. I'll have 3 interior lights, 1 porch light, 1 -12V outlet. 1 spare. I think that's enough. This will get it's power from a 12v power supply.

[saltydawg]

my wiring plan is a fuse for each of the below
ext lights
int lights
water pump
power points
fans
heat when I do it ( hot water heater based fan and coil )

I do have a 12 point fuse box, so if I need to split stuff up I can


I plan on a master switch bank with a switch for each of the above, and if the water heater I get has the ability for a remote switch one for it too.

[DoctahDeane]

my wiring plan is a fuse for each of the below
ext lights
int lights
water pump
power points
fans
heat when I do it

I do have a 12 point fuse box, so if I need to split stuff up I can


I plan on a master switch bank with a switch for each of the above, and if the water I get has the ability for a remote switch one for it too.

Sounds good. USB ports (I found) draw a fair amount when idle so I installed a cut off switch. Now the battery stays pretty charged up between trips.

[tony.latham]

heat when I do it

Electric heat?

Tony

[saltydawg]

heat when I do it

Electric heat?

Tony

Heat, as in a water heater providing hot water to a fan and water coil. the switch will turn off power to the fan, pump, and thermostat.