Flat pack trailer kit. pop top works, and we have a tent

[tony.latham]

What are you using for a hatch hinge?



Tony

[saltydawg]

What are you using for a hatch hinge?



Tony

why?

A stainless piano hinge, attached on both sides to a steel tube, I will put a weather seal on the hinge so when its open it leaks less, there is not much to leak there esp if the roof is lifted, it will run off to the side. But I dont care about minor leaks the whole rear area is exterior anyway. The hatch weighs about 30 lbs so not that much weight.

[tony.latham]

why?

Because I'm curious. This is an innovative build both materials and design.

I'm even more curious to see how you incorporate the steel tube with it.

Tony

[saltydawg]

I dont have pics, but I think I can describe it pretty well.

The hatch needed to be around 68 wide by 48 tall. To leave some room I made a square of tube that measured 60 wide by 46 tall out side . When I made the panel I put epoxy on the bottom skin and set the steel square on it, with the top of the square flush with the edge of the skin. I then filled in the center with a piece of foam that measured 58 by 44, then I put a 6 inch piece of foam on the sides and bottom, then put on the top skin. The "room" I left was so I could cut it to the exact width and height I needed, This was where I screwed up. I changed how the rear hatch was going to fit, it was going to sit on the side walls, but I changed it to be recessed. This meant the bottom tube was now in the way and had to be cut off, so the steel is only on the sides and the top. As I said the steel flush flush at the top and about 2 inches off the edge of the panel.

I was going to put skin on the edges after it was cut down, but glassing and filling the edge was a pain when I did it on the rear of the body. The issue was the glass tape I got was 2 inches wide, so by the time I wrapped the edge I only had a 1/4 inch of glass on the sides and getting it to stay down was a pain. So I put Al angle on the edges and bottom to hide and cover the edge of the foam

On the top I have the opening for the pop top, I welded some short stubs of steel to the rear of the steel frame of the opening, the welded a tube across the back at the edge of where I wanted the roof to stop. in the pics below you can see the rear edge of the steel built in to the roof, the one pic the light is taped to it, the other its in the corner with a flap of fiberglass hiding part of it.

[saltydawg]

okay so I took a pic of the hinge, as you can see its pop riveted to the hatch, I still need to do more but my pneumatic rivet gun died and doing stainless rivets with a hand riveter is very hard. The hinge is currently tek screwed to the steel built into the roof. I will be drilling and tapping the screws for that and using stainless screws so I can remove the hatch if I ever need to.

In the pic where the hinge is screwed is the edge of the roof, what you see above it is the pop top roof sitting there.

[saltydawg]

Here is a screen shot of saw tooth unlimited laying out one of his walls. He has PVC tube for electric conduits and aluminum tube for the edges of his door opening on this wall, but imagine it made an steel and welded together.



the whole video.

https://youtu.be/1qcoO3Gd9GQ

[tony.latham]

..okay so I took a pic of the hinge...

Thanks. It looks nice and tidy.

Tony

[saltydawg]

Thanks tony the statement of innovative and the nice and tidy makes me feel better do to the things I will I could do again, just a little different

[saltydawg]

Okay minor update.

We have running water, exterior lights all mounted and powered, and the thresh hold for the door is cut and bent. Bending 1/8 diamond plate to 120 degrees is a total night mare, all bent by hand. First cut a groove with a cut off wheel, anneal it, bend it some, cut the clearance for the bend that closed up, bend some more, wash rinse repeat until it gets to where to you want it.

The exterior lights are amber led running/clearance lights mounted on a piece of hdpe I cut at an angle and routed the edges, this aims the lights down at the ground. There is one on the rear, and road side and 2 on the curb side and with the down angle they are not in your face. I also installed a white light over the kitchen for cooking purposes. The amber lights give a perfect amount of light for around the trailer and not be blinding.

[saltydawg]

Opps forgot the say, all the window and access doors are not permanently mounted and sealed with butyl tape.



Also the clearance lights on the front are on and the license plate is mounted and lite using the bolts with the led in them for the license plate light.

[saltydawg]

Well I put the mattress in the trailer today. My older tuft and needle king size cut down to a queen, and a water proof mattress cover on it. The mattress cover is actually perfect, the top zips off so it will be easy to take off and wash. I dont know that I need a 10 inch mattress in a large tear drop, but its comfy.

I also had to make wood fillers to make the windows work, my walls are an inch thick and the windows where set up for 1.5 wall thickness. I plained down some 3/4 birch play to 9/16 so I have a nice clamping force to hold the windows tight. It also gives me wood to attached curtain rods to.

[saltydawg]

Okay so I took the trailer to the dump to weigh it. Right now the water tank is empty, so thats 200 lbs or so of water, but I have 100 lbs of sand next to the water tank to compensate for that some. Also I have a spare strapped to the tongue which wont be there, but there will be some weight there in the form of 11 lb propane bottle, a 2x4 table, some diamond plate on the front of the body etc that is not there yet. I also need to built the rear seat, and put in the water heater ( over the axle ) and rear sink.

I expect now with a known weight I should have a dry weight of around 1900 lbs, then 200 lbs of water. Making the wet weight around 2100, my axle was built at 2200 lbs.

Now remember I have a 75 lb tuft and needle queen bed in it. So while I built for weight I am putting things in it that are heavy for what they are.

total weight with no water but 100 lbs of sand as it sits now 1880
tongue weight of 220 lbs.

I am thrilled by this weight for a 12 foot by 5.5 body with an inside height of 5'5" with a pop up that will give me another foot of height. Queen bed, short couch, standing room, a real mattress etc etc.

[twisted lines]

I didn't realize it was so tall, Sound's like you dialed it in perfect to what you have picked for the axle, but for some reason I am not surprised
Now I have a feeling I may be, when I weigh mine with 2000 lb spring's

[saltydawg]

I didn't realize it was so tall, Sound's like you dialed it in perfect to what you have picked for the axle, but for some reason I am not surprised
Now I have a feeling I may be, when I weigh mine with 2000 lb spring's

Yeah it is just short enough by 2 or 3 inches to clear my garage door. It measures 7'4" but its on 31 inch tires and has around 19 inches of clearance.

[Modstock]

1,880 . Surprised. I thought it would be less.

Here's a random comparison.
My 6x10 V-nose cargo conversion weighed 1,660 after the build. It was originally 1200 stock , so I've added 440lbs even with keeping the 3/8" walls.
Was starting to feel bad about that , but now a bit better.



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