Large Teardrop build 6'8"x11'8"

[crxtech]

Hey Everyone, I've been reading these forums for about 3 years. I was looking to start my first build about 2 years ago when I found a really good deal on a 5x8 silver shadow and bought that instead. Now that my daughter is 3 its just too small for the three of us. So back to building my own.

I purchased a 2006 popup (I know, I've read most of your thoughts on popup frames) for $350. I was willing to pay that much because I could easily sell the appliances in it. So, in the end I made money on the frame. The axel on this trailer is 2700lbs and set back, not in the middle. It took me two days to strip the camper down to the frame and two full truck load to the dump.

[crxtech]

There is alot of things I was able to save and plan to reuse, but these are the main two items that will save me some money.

[crxtech]

The Frame:

The frame on this pop up is heavy... the popup was around 3000lbs with a tongue weight of around 400lbs. I tried to weight it once I removed the popup by putting a scale under the one tire and multiplying that by two and adding the tongue weight. It came to just over 500, not ideal. So I started cutting things off I don't need. The first thing I removed was a 1/4" steel plate on the tongue that was a mount for the electric host for the popup. about 25lbs. Then I cut off all the sides, this camper was 7' wide and the outter beams are 2x4" C channel. I haven't weighed all that yet, but its getting lighter. I'm doing a drop floor, so I am keeping two metal joists, one on each side of the drop foor.

[DaddyJeep]

I can't tell because of that piece of lumber, but did you completely remove that front piece? I am worried that you may have got a little carried away and removed all of the strength in the frame.

[crxtech]

I've been working with SketchUp and this is what I have so far. Ignore the solar panel sticking up on the roof... The front is a XL twin/sofa. The back of the sofa will fold up into a top bunk. The rear bed is a queen that sleeps front to back, that why the trailer is so long, I really didn't want to have to crawl over my wife to get out. Bothe bed platforms are 10" above the floor and the drop floor is 7.5", which should be a nice sitting height. I'm not doing a rear galley, my silver shadow has one and I find we don't use it for its purpose just store junk in it. Instead I'm reusing the popup sliders for a side slide out kitchen towards the back of the entry side of the camper. Most of the storage will be under the beds, with one set of cabinets over our feet on the rear of the camper.

[crxtech]

I can't tell because of that piece of lumber, but did you completely remove that front piece? I am worried that you may have got a little carried away and removed all of the strength in the frame.

haha, I realize that 2x4 placement is not great... No, I didn't remove the front C channel.

Also, in removing the outer sides of the trailer I had to remove the stabilizer jacks. So I'm taking the trailer to a welder soon to have 45 degree braces welded in the corners for the rear mounts for the jacks.

[bartek]

Darn, and I thought my teardrop was large
One thing which you may already know is that there are some additional lighting requirements kicking in when you go over 80 inches width. Mine was 78 inches, but after I added wider tires (and resulting fenders) it will actually go just over 80 inches.
Not a big deal, just something to remember when you're doing the electrical.

Looking forward to seeing your build progress

[crxtech]

Darn, and I thought my teardrop was large
One thing which you may already know is that there are some additional lighting requirements kicking in when you go over 80 inches width. Mine was 78 inches, but after I added wider tires (and resulting fenders) it will actually go just over 80 inches.
Not a big deal, just something to remember when you're doing the electrical.

Looking forward to seeing your build progress

Thanks, I have heard additional lights are required and will have to read up on it. I'm watching your build as well and am very jealous. I used to be a member of a makerspace and use the CNC router table there. I would love to have access to that for this build, but they went out of business.

[DaddyJeep]

I can't tell because of that piece of lumber, but did you completely remove that front piece? I am worried that you may have got a little carried away and removed all of the strength in the frame.

Good deal. Bring it over. I would be happy to do some welding for you. Nevermind the 7 or 8 hour drive.

[Shadow Catcher]

Using the old converter may not be a great idea, most were hard on batteries, not three or four stage charging
Ours is a 6X10

[crxtech]

Using the old converter may not be a great idea, most were hard on batteries, not three or four stage charging
Ours is a 6X10

Thanks for the tip. I look into this specific model. What do you use or recommend using?

[Shadow Catcher]

We have a Progressive Dynamics PD 4045, it has worked flawlessly for 12 years. It also makes wiring easier. It is to the left of the galley the second shot was during rebuild.

[S. Heisley]

Using the old converter may not be a great idea, most were hard on batteries, not three or four stage charging
Ours is a 6X10

Thanks for the tip. I look into this specific model. What do you use or recommend using?

That looks like the same model that I have. They used to have problems with those but have since fixed those problems. It's the only converter that my local RV parts store sells. Mine has been running I think 9 years. My battery is 10 years and just died this fall. I'm happy with that. If you have the money in your pocket for a USA made Progressive, go for it. Otherwise, if you know your existing converter functions okay, you can stick with it. Recognize that the dimensions of a Progressive and a WFCO are slightly different; so, if you decide to switch to a Progressive later on, you'll need to do a little cutting (not much) to make it fit.

[crxtech]

I'm finally done all the cutting and grinding metal. I'm not a fan of the metal work. I just got back from a local welder who welded in some joist I cut out and moved. All I need to do now is sand/wirewheel the frame and paint it, then I can install a floor and it might start to look like a trailer! And yes, this is my garage... At least the snow has finally melted, though its supposed to snow for the next few days again. The diesel heater raises the temp in there about 10 degrees, it would help more, but my yard isn't flat and the rear of the tent has a 6" gap.

[crxtech]

Using the old converter may not be a great idea, most were hard on batteries, not three or four stage charging
Ours is a 6X10

Thanks for the tip. I look into this specific model. What do you use or recommend using?

That looks like the same model that I have. They used to have problems with those but have since fixed those problems. It's the only converter that my local RV parts store sells. Mine has been running I think 9 years. My battery is 10 years and just died this fall. I'm happy with that. If you have the money in your pocket for a USA made Progressive, go for it. Otherwise, if you know your existing converter functions okay, you can stick with it. Recognize that the dimensions of a Progressive and a WFCO are slightly different; so, if you decide to switch to a Progressive later on, you'll need to do a little cutting (not much) to make it fit.

Yeah, its a 2006 and still the current model sold on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8735-P-B ... 170&sr=8-2