and based on personal experience you don't need to be hooked to the TV to lift a wheel assly off the ground
positioning screw tongue jacks behind the wheels could also negate the need for scissor/stab jacks
Capebuild wrote:
Also, the method you've welded your frame with the tongue in-line (on the same plane) as the other members.... I wonder if that provides the same strength as having the 3 tongue members
welded under the frame, as I've seen in most other trailers.
John
and have made the last 5 in my own shop.
I'm assuming your trailer should ride level, as much as possible.
Capebuild wrote:Thanks, Tony. Just looked up "how to determine hitch drop". https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-accessor ... learn-more.
Getting quite an education here. I can see planning and drawing up plans will probably take more time than actually building the trailer.
John
Capebuild wrote:Thanks for your post, HalfDomeDanny. Beautiful trailer! I went to your webpage of your trailer's photos. Really nice.
I had a question about some of the weld-ons. I attached a screen shot with red arrows pointing to them. Not sure what they are for and asking if you can tell me what their purpose is. Thanks!
Also, the method you've welded your frame with the tongue in-line (on the same plane) as the other members.... I wonder if that provides the same strength as having the 3 tongue members
welded under the frame, as I've seen in most other trailers. I was just asking for your thoughts on that. In my mind it looks like it puts more stresses on those welds where the tongue members are welded.
I really don't know, so I'm asking what your thought process was in choosing to do it that way. Again, Thanks!
John
tony.latham wrote:and have made the last 5 in my own shop.
Danny:
There you go, setting your high-craftsman bar again.
Is the chassis hot-dipped galvanized?
Tony
Tony, i thought your rock shield mounts might have been a couple ;-)
Return to Trailer and Chassis Secrets
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests