BigDave_185 wrote:Flboy I’m not sure in understand your last question. The weight of the bed keeps plenty of tension on the cables as it lowers. The turnbuckles helped me keep them all even tension.
Otherwise did I miss your question?
It does rotate up and down on the drive gear.
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Husqvarna Right Angle T Drive Gearbox 539003131 Craftsman SC 18A OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DFNYQCC/re ... TER1JKBB8Gflboy wrote:BigDave_185 wrote:Flboy I’m not sure in understand your last question. The weight of the bed keeps plenty of tension on the cables as it lowers. The turnbuckles helped me keep them all even tension.
Otherwise did I miss your question?
It does rotate up and down on the drive gear.
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No. you got the question right.. just wanted to make sure the bed wont drop unless driven. Thanks much for the info.
I don't think I will get that lucky to get a gear drive.
Anyone out there have any ideas, I am all ears..
Thanks!
BigDave_185 wrote:I can get that info for ya, I think I was only $130 ish on steel to.
I’ll get the weights tomorrow
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Just verified I paid $142 for 60’ of 1x3 1/8 thickflboy wrote:BigDave_185 wrote:I can get that info for ya, I think I was only $130 ish on steel to.
I’ll get the weights tomorrow
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Wow.. you must have a wholesale place you get steel from. I bought qty. 2 - 1in x 2in x 8ft and qty. 4 - 1in x 2in x 6ft and it was $199.00. I am sure I paid too much. But, I'll have what I need to rebuild the bed in steel and use the existing lift system. It should weight less than half and withstand the bouncy roads. Will be a good upgrade...and be more professional if I sell the trailer. Toying with that idea.
Thanks again for your help and letting me hijack your thread with my bed lift questions.
flboy wrote:Thanks, I Am finding the same things. I am not sure the awing gearbox is strong enough and the others are $100's of dollars.
I am thinking I may just build the steel frame and hook up my existing lift cables which will have a much easier lift with the lighter frame. This will be less expensive for now and I can still make the drawer work without the cables crossing under the bed. Will reuse the existing drawer as well
I can always change the lift later if I decide to (no real need to)... In any case.. I have to get rid of the wood. It is heavy and not as robust as I need it to be. I think a pine stud is about 9lbs and the same length of steel tubing will be ~ 5lbs? I have double 2x4's on sides, so without that and using steel frame built with the same dimensions, it should be less than half the weight.
Do you know how much an 8ft' piece of 1" square mild steel tubing weights?
Link errorbrianjonesphoto wrote:flboy wrote:Thanks, I Am finding the same things. I am not sure the awing gearbox is strong enough and the others are $100's of dollars.
I am thinking I may just build the steel frame and hook up my existing lift cables which will have a much easier lift with the lighter frame. This will be less expensive for now and I can still make the drawer work without the cables crossing under the bed. Will reuse the existing drawer as well
I can always change the lift later if I decide to (no real need to)... In any case.. I have to get rid of the wood. It is heavy and not as robust as I need it to be. I think a pine stud is about 9lbs and the same length of steel tubing will be ~ 5lbs? I have double 2x4's on sides, so without that and using steel frame built with the same dimensions, it should be less than half the weight.
Do you know how much an 8ft' piece of 1" square mild steel tubing weights?
Don This where I got my initial idea for the lift. http://www.racorstoragesolutions.com/(X(1)S(ygpiy2etal5o5cox5mbn0f2h))/p/detail/phl-1r I have the exact same gearbox as this lift and it's rated at 250lbs. for an empty bed I think will be just fine.
I'd be interested to know the weight difference between the wood and steel bedframe.
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