Help I’m Overweight!

[AKcargo]

I built out and seasonally live in a 6x12 single axle interstate load runner. Per the tag it’s rated for 2990, and sitting on a 3500lb dexter axle. With full water and propane tanks I weighed it today at 4300lbs. Obviously it’s an issue, but it is a very detailed build and I have no desire to change trailers, I’ll need to beef this one up. I’m looking at swapping to a 5200lb axle with matching springs, brakes, and load D tires. That part seems straightforward enough, but I’m curious about the frame. The frame perimeter and tongue are 2”x3” steel. Can anyone pass on any relevant information on how to determine what-if anything-would be advisable to do for frame reinforcement? Any articles or calculators for trailer design? Or even better, specs on a similarly sized trailer sold with a heavier weight rating? I have access to any fabrication equipment I might need. Also, I’m registered in Alaska and don’t foresee a situation where I’ll actually be weighed for legal reasons, I’m just wanting to keep it safe and trouble free. Thanks -Aaron

[Grummy]

Well, that is substantially overweight !
At least your on a Steel frame with this problem. It will be easier to beef up. If you go look at practically any boat trailer, you can see that they build a frame large enough to hold the boat, but they do not weld the axle(s) tight to that frame. Rather, they put the front and rear spring mounts onto an angle plate that can be slid fore and aft along the trailers frame so that it can be located accurately for proper tongue weight. The reason it is popular or practically necessary with boat frames is because often, people swap outboard motors out and the weight behind the axle can change significantly.

So, what does this have to do with your issue ? You could have a weld shop make you this same "subframe" type setup for under your existing frame, and the angle they use can be left as long as necessary to both provide a great mount platform for the new axle as well as give you the frame reinforcement you obviously should be demanding. Too, it pretty much can be built ahead of time, and rolled under in one fell swoop when ready.

Take a look under your trailer now and you just might see this same exact concept had been applied already and if so, you may also note whether it is currently bolted on just like the boat trailer example or whether it is welded. If it is bolted, it will be fairly easy to roll a new axle setup right in behind the existing when time comes to do it. I have an aluminum frame trailer it is has this setup bolted on.

BUT, and a big but, is you also need to make sure your tongue is also capable of this overloaded situation. Any decent weld shop should be able to determine what you have now verses what you should have. A few things could be done here, one if which is to box your current tongue if it is not currently boxed, simply weld flat plate along the outer sides of the current A- Frame, or, add a center tube to your existing A-frame, tieing it properly back into the main frame.

Lastly, you may live or travel in a state where they thing the "TAG" is gods word on the matter, in which case, I would surely destroy the "tag" and point out how the trailer had been "professionally modified" to handle the extra weight. Perhaps anyone who cares will be smart enough to see it's fine. In my State, we/us/anybody have built trailers from scratch my whole lifetime and nothing stops us from doing it currently either. We have no real "inspections" at all, and no one cares about any "Tag" on a home made trailer. But obviously, one does not want a terrible accident on ones conscience to destroy your life, so in my case, we just do it right.....

I know there are plenty of people out there sceptical of people making their own trailers, but frankly, I currently have a very well known "name brand" aluminum utility trailer that clearly has a crap tongue that I do not trust running down the road at their "tagged" gross weight, so I just dont !

[flboy]

Unfortunate to be in this position.

I just had a 6 x12 trailer built and took delivery yesterday. I was concerned that standard build may not be hefty enough when I got finished building it out and then add a motorcycle to the mix.

The three things I had done to it for increased load capacity was the 5,200lb axle (and appropriate tires) with brakes, 16 Inch on center floor joists, and a triple tube tongue.

At this point, the sticker and legal aspects are another discussion. Safety is first. I think you have the right idea by upgrading the axle, tires and brakes for sure. You may have a weld shop also beef up the tongue to a triple tube to support the weight better.

I am not sure the floor joists will do much for you at this point.. Just keep and eye on frame.

You certainly do not want axle or tire failure going down the road.

What is your tow vehicle? This is what my sticker says with the three mods I mentioned: I will take pictures of frame if it will help you. I really think frame wise it is just the 16inch in center joists and triple tube tongue.




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[AKcargo]

Thanks guys, great info so far. I should have specified that the 2x3 steel tongue and frame are already square tube, and the spring hangers are welded directly to it. . Flboy, this is exactly the kind of info I’m looking for, thanks. Adding a center member to the tongue won’t be too bad. My joists are 24” but with a 3/4 plywood floor and no weight in the center of the joist span I think I’m fine there. What size is the perimeter of your frame? Thanks

Oh yeah, I’m towing with a 2005 Toyota Tundra 4.7.

[flboy]

Thanks guys, great info so far. I should have specified that the 2x3 steel tongue and frame are already square tube, and the spring hangers are welded directly to it. . Flboy, this is exactly the kind of info I’m looking for, thanks. Adding a center member to the tongue won’t be too bad. My joists are 24” but with a 3/4 plywood floor and no weight in the center of the joist span I think I’m fine there. What size is the perimeter of your frame? Thanks

Oh yeah, I’m towing with a 2005 Toyota Tundra 4.7.

The perimeter frame appears to be 2x3 also. Will measure and confirm later.

[Grummy]

..... This is what my sticker says with the three mods....

How Interesting! Earlier I thought I read one members tag said 3500lb with his 5200lb axle, and yours they rated at 3350lbs gross with that same axle capacity. And again, a lot of us know how weight creep can catch up in a hurry. It's exactly why I keep a spreadsheet of the weight of everything.

Is your suspension mounted on an angle bolted under the frame like my boat trailer example ? Or do that have hangers welded right to the frame ?

I guess this really shows just where a manufacturer will draw the line regards liabilities on our perfect size of choice 6x12 trailer. Makes me really curious then, if when they build a 6x12 tandem axle, whether the frame itself gets any change, or as I would assume, just simply the longer addition of the underframe angle to accommodate the tandem setup gives them the confidence to raise the GVRW without changing anything regards the floor joists or main frame rails.

If I were the OP, I would simply get a weld shop (if he is not able to do it himself) to make an appropriate 6 foot long angle suspension mount to put his axle on. When the new axle assembly is slid into place, he will also be able to fine tune his tounge weight with the new axle placement.

[flboy]

..... This is what my sticker says with the three mods....

How Interesting! Earlier I thought I read one members tag said 3500lb with his 5200lb axle, and yours they rated at 3350lbs gross with that same axle capacity. And again, a lot of us know how weight creep can catch up in a hurry. It's exactly why I keep a spreadsheet of the weight of everything.

Is your suspension mounted on an angle bolted under the frame like my boat trailer example ? Or do that have hangers welded right to the frame ?

I guess this really shows just where a manufacturer will draw the line regards liabilities on our perfect size of choice 6x12 trailer. Makes me really curious then, if when they build a 6x12 tandem axle, whether the frame itself gets any change, or as I would assume, just simply the longer addition of the underframe angle to accommodate the tandem setup gives them the confidence to raise the GVRW without changing anything regards the floor joists or main frame rails.

If I were the OP, I would simply get a weld shop (if he is not able to do it himself) to make an appropriate 6 foot long angle suspension mount to put his axle on. When the new axle assembly is slid into place, he will also be able to fine tune his tounge weight with the new axle placement.

They rated it 5,200 LBS GVWR and Cargo Capacity of 3,350 lbs.

[Grummy]

Oh.. I see.... Did you weigh your actual trailer bone stock yet ? There is an 1800+ difference there... My all Alumium ran 1260+ lbs bone stock which is heavier than some, but I know some are made really cheap. I do have all tubing on 16" centers.

Curious what your steel build weighs out of the box. You probably don't know if your side walls are "Z" channel or tube yet ?

[flboy]

Trailer weighs 1,850 dry. They used 1 inch steel tube for the walls studs. It seems well built. I haven't got the wood off yet, but I can see the tops.



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