Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

[foxontherun]

Sounds like it might work; will give it a try and see. Thanks

[hankaye]

foxontherun, Howdy;

In that case I'd take a trip to the local Good Body shop and ask them How to
or have them do it. Lots of ways and most will lead to "work-hardening" the
section in question and making it brittle. Don't think ya want a brittle section.

Best of luck and please keep us in the loop.

hank

[foxontherun]

So I took a 4" long piece of 1/4" plywood and and placed it between the plywood and the bent door frame bottom and then used a dead blow hammer to push the door frame back into place so I could put the floor trim back on after laying the floor. Once I got it hammered into place enough I used needle nose vise grip pliers to straighten the framing as best I could. Left the plywood in place for a few days. I tested the trim piece and it fit tight but does fit.

Before repair.....



Finished view of repair from inside...



Finished view of repair from outside.....



So.... finally got my floor put in and the door trim put down on the side door as well as the ramp door. Went with Shaw Matrix LVT flooring.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shaw-12-Piece- ... 1002742318

Flooring went together really easy; just clicked together. The hardest part was just the couple of pieces that had multiple angle cuts; fortunately only a few of those....shower pan area and the AC/Fridge stack. Really impressed with how easy it went down and how good it actually looks. Time will tell on how well it holds up and stays together; it is a floating floor. Finished picture....



Now, according to directions you should be able to use razor knife to score and break.....freakin' joke. I bought one of these cutters and would not hesitate to buy again. SO MUCH easier and clean cuts. https://www.amazon.com/EAB-Tool-Exchang ... B00B0BYY4Q

Harry

[featherliteCT1]

Looks great!

[aggie79]

Looks great!

I agree. Nice job on the installation!

[foxontherun]

Thanks! Appreciate the feedback. Planning out my cabinets now.....so many decisions, ha! Like what is gonna go in them and where to keep weight balanced.

We've been using plastic drawer systems on our previous trips but now that I have a permanent floor in it is time to add more permanent cabinets. It's becoming a pain in the neck to have to situate the drawer systems for travel every time we move to another campground.
Harry

[foxontherun]

Problem: Right now I do not have my AC installed so I keep a tight fitting piece of foam insulation stuck in the vent hole to keep the cold air out of trailer. Trailer sitting....if the wind is blowing hard enough in the right direction it can pop the foam out....since that can occur, the problem I am concerned about is when driving down the road and it is raining, that some rain will get in thru that vent. So far, all my trips I have taken since installing the vent, I have had no rain to test that theory.

Solution: My idea is to cover the vent panel on outside of trailer with plexiglass panel or maybe a rock guard panel and fasten it with the twist lock fasteners to make it easy to get on and off. I would either 3M super duper tape or glue the fasteners to the vent frame so that I don't drill additional holes into the trailer. In addition I was thinking of maybe also installing a rain/wind guard like I have on my truck windows but run it up and down the left side of trailer vent to maybe force the air around the vent when traveling down road as extra insurance of rain not getting in. I considered the super duty velcro which is a great idea; however, I have nerve and muscle issues in my arms and hands and don't have a great deal of strength to wrestle the velcro to get cover off hence the twist lock idea.

Suggestions, ideas, would be welcomed as to how to remedy this situation without a lot of headache.

Harry

[featherliteCT1]

Another reason why not to use Velcro is that, in my experience, water readily seaps through the hooks and loops.

[foxontherun]

Good to know; always wondered about that.

[foxontherun]

Good morning, I have a plumbing question on how to hook up gravity feed to water tank. I have the T-167 30 Gallon water tank that has 1-1/4" boss fitting water inlet and a Valterra A01-2000VP Gravity/City water hookup that has a 1-1/4" barb connection. Where the tank sits and the water inlet comes in would be what looks like a perfect 90 degree fit if I could find the appropriate hookup materials. I took both to HD yesterday to see if I could come up with fittings and the closest thing I came up with was 1-1/4" pool spa hose. When I put the hose on the connections it fit but was loose enough that it wouldn't stay on without a clamp. I know there are kits you can buy but the ones I have found are $$ and I would only use part so kinda would be a waste of $$.

Question1 : Can pool hose be clamped and make a good seal and not leak if I were to use that? I am a little concerned the hose might kink making the turn to go into the tank and there is not a great deal of room. Might be 8 inches down to tank from inlet and maybe 6 over to the tank.

Question 2: My preference would be to use fittings I could screw or glue on to each part to make the connection and use pipe instead of hose; are their connection pieces that I could use to do this?

Ideas, thoughts, all are welcome.
Harry

[foxontherun]

Electrical question: I have a Radio Shack 10 amp converter that I used to run an old car stereo on in my garage. I'm wondering if I could use this to hook my 12v blue sea terminal block to in order to just test some 12V items like maxxair fans and led lights. I had planned to have house batteries in by now but due to several arm surgeries this year have not been able to complete that part as I only have one usable arm right now. I can plug this converter into my 110 system on trailer and then run wiring from neg and pos posts on the blue sea terminal block to the appropriate posts on the converter.

Would this work and would it be safe to use this way temporarily when we have shore power? Obviously, i would have appropriate fuses in the circuits on the blue sea terminal block. Thoughts?

Thanks
Harry

[flboy]

I think it will work just fine. Be careful not to overload it. 10A is not a lot to work with. The Maxxair will run slightly less than 5A on high, but may draw more than that at startup .

[foxontherun]

Thanks Don. For right now it is more to just test things I have wired up at the moment; just a few LED lights and the fans. Appreciate your feedback.

Have been following your new build especially the part on the batteries. I spent a good bit of time today looking up info and looking at Alibaba. A bit overwhelming, ha! I would like to go with two 280 AH sets for total of 560 I think. Just need to figure out which deal is best; right now I have the time to wait to get them from China as it will be difficult to put together with one arm, lol. I do good just to get things done with two arms, ha!

Any recommendations on which outfit is best to deal with? Seemed like there were multiple sellers.
Harry

[foxontherun]

The test was a success! Lights and both MaxxAire fans work!

Right now the only thing on the Blue Sea Fuse Block are the lights and fans. I may mount this converter temporarily so when we have shore power I can at least have power to the fans when it's not hot enough for the AC and we want some ventilation. Thanks for the input Don.

Hopefully, later this fall, I will have some use of my bad arm to where I can start adding batteries to the trailer.
Harry

[flboy]

Any recommendations on which outfit is best to deal with? Seemed like there were multiple sellers.
Harry

Harry, I bought my batteries from Shenzhen Basen Technologies. They (Emily - Customer Service) communicated well. They taker a while.. but I got good batteries, well packed and as advertised both times. I bought the 280aH the first time and when I went back to get another set, they were sold out and I bought the 230aH instead.