CapeBuild Build Journal

[western traveler]

John, great progress! I like your well thought out planning and execution. I am curious how deep your storage boxes are and how much ground clearance you have. Mine are at 10” ground clearance and set back far enough that I hope I have enough for uneven ground. They also have two layers of glass on them as well. I may add some sort of chip guard to the front like aluminum sheeting for protection. I hope I don’t have to adjust the axle.

[tony.latham]

Starting to accumulate lots of small pieces of wood cut offs.

And they're gold.

The only reason I'd build another teardrop at this point is so I could cut it on my CNC. And assemble it the way you're doing it.

Fortunately, I'm not that bored.

Keep the posts coming.

Tony

[halfdome, Danny]

John, great progress! I like your well thought out planning and execution. I am curious how deep your storage boxes are and how much ground clearance you have. Mine are at 10” ground clearance and set back far enough that I hope I have enough for uneven ground. They also have two layers of glass on them as well. I may add some sort of chip guard to the front like aluminum sheeting for protection. I hope I don’t have to adjust the axle.

Good point.
My first TD the under bed storage box would scrape on those driveways and entrances to shopping centers that drop below the surface of the street.
It's the leading edge that was getting hit.
I ripped it out and cut it down.
I now leave 12" of ground clearance, 80" from the hitch and haven't had the problem anymore.
Danny

[JunkMan]

I may add some sort of chip guard to the front like aluminum sheeting for protection. I hope I don’t have to adjust the axle.

I agree, I just got back from my first trip, about 2300 miles, to the Grand Canyon. We ran across some road construction where ther were chip sealing the road, and the paint on the front of my frame is all chipped up and the aluminum on the front of the tear is pitted. I am thinking about making some mud flaps for our tow vehicle (Subaru Impreza) and possibly putting Rhino Liner on the front of the tear.

[tony.latham]

...and the paint on the front of my frame is all chipped up...

I finally covered the front of my chassis with diamond plate. It was getting eaten. Last fall I covered the front of my fenders.



I've got clear plastic on the front of my propane tank too. And I'm running mud flaps that are attached to a piece of angle attached to my receiver.



Things are brutal back there.



Tony

[JunkMan]

I finally covered the front of my chassis with diamond plate. It was getting eaten. Last fall I covered the front of my fendres.

I've got clear plastic on the front of my propane tank too. And I'm running mud flaps that are attached to a piece of angle attached to my receiver.

Things are brutal back there.



Tony

My son has diamond plate on the front of his, but it is getting pitted up too. At least it doesn't look as bad as pitted smooth aluminum. Because of the curve in the front of my trailer, I would have a hard time fitting it with diamond plate.

[noseoil]

Diamond plate is really great for off-road stuff, exposed edges, panels, rock guards or exposed corners. It's better than paint, helps keep things looking good & will do the job for rocks, gravel & mud. We used it inside the fenders since they're open at the sides against the skin, in front for rocks & we even had a bit left over for trim on mud flaps, that custom touch! I just use some silicone in the screw holes & do surface prep for a bit of silicone to bond the diamond plate to seal it against weather. I think this is the only place I used silicone on the entire build.

[Ottsville]

John, that is looking beautiful. Nice work!

[Capebuild]

Thank you, Ottsville, and others for the comments.

Western Traveler.... in answer to your question about ground clearance, I've attached an image showing those measurements. Basically around 12 inches of ground clearance (batt box is a bit closer to the ground, 11.695 inches). The footwells have an interior depth of 7 inches. Hope that helps.

And thanks all about the diamond plate comments. I suppose I should consider it just haven't gotten to that point yet. Noseoil, I like your idea of putting the plate in the fender area between the wheels and the body.
After recently taking the trailer chassis out for a drive the other day I now keep noticing little stones embedded in the tire treads ( I find myself flicking them out, hurts my pride to see them there). This was just a small ride up the road and back... but gives me a feel for the amount of stones that probably will contact the trailer doing 60mph down the highway or back roading.

John

[western traveler]

Thanks John,
..and yes I was referring to a rock guard on the front of my below deck storage box but all good information provided by everyone.
I am building on the frame so I had a bit of settling with the weight. I don’t anticipate it getting much lower but we will see.
Running 15” wheels, you as well as I recall. I would like to know if you settle any lower with the weight of your build. I down rated my axle to 1800# but of course real world testing will give me the answer I’m seeking.
My box is 98” behind the hitch 9” deep set sideways. I think it will be okay time will tell.

[Capebuild]

I went with 14 inch wheels. I haven't noticed any "settling"... but then again I don't have much weight on it yet. My torsion axle is also downrated to 1800 pounds.

I just got finished installing the cabinetry ("lower level"). I was surprised how much easier it is now to move the trailer around by hand with that weight from the cabinetry.
Counterbalanced a bit more

[Capebuild]

July 16, 2021

installed the rear cabinetry/headboard. Will have to wait to install the upper portion until I receive the laminate I ordered (3-4 weeks wait )

Installed the angle molding around the footwells. Now working on the sidewalls. Was going to work on the bed/couch mech and set that up but thought it might
be good to get the sides established so I know an accurate interior measurement.

If I had my druthers and a chance to do it all over again I would have skipped the dados in the side walls that match up with the cabinetry and just pocket holed them in place.
Turns out the CNC'd dados on the side walls are a bit off from my cabinetry geometry so need to make some adjustments. Workin' on it.

John

[halfdome, Danny]

I’m assuming what you referred to as dados are the slots that your interior members go through.
Never seen that method , are you going to trim the protrusions flush?
Danny

[Capebuild]

are you going to trim the protrusions flush?

The "dados" I was referring to are the slots located in the ply of the interior panel (the ones the cabinetry ends mate with). The birch cabinetry is cut just long enough to be flush with other side of those panels and where the middle panel would butt up to those cabinetry ends. My original intent was thinking it would kind of "lock" everything in place. But because my cabinetry location is a bit off from the slots CNCd into the interior panel, that is causing some headaches. I needed to widen the slots on the interior panel a bit to allow the cabinetry to fit into the slots. I'll either gingerly fill the spaces with strips of panel material (glue in place, sand and hope for the best) or cover the gaps with a molding of some sort.

I can see it would be great to build 2 teardrops. You make all your errors on your first build and use that as a learning experience to make your second build PERFECT.

[Tom&Shelly]

I can see it would be great to build 2 teardrops. You make all your errors on your first build and use that as a learning experience to make your second build PERFECT.

Often thought that very thing! Bet it works just that way.

Great job on the build!

Tom