#4

[tony.latham]

Flame got her coat on yesterday...



Just in time. We had twenty-five great nights in her this year.



Tony

[Squigie]

Nice and cozy.

I just got everything here covered up in the calm before the storm, except the 4-wheeler. Cut things a bit close, but got 'er did.

The 4-wheeler needs to be available for the muzzleloader elk season.
("50 inch wide" rules where I prefer hunting.)

[tony.latham]

...except the 4-wheeler

I spent nearly two hours on ours digging us out.

Keep your powder dry.

Tony

[tony.latham]

It's snowing. I must be bored because I just cranked out a video about last week's rebuild of my electrical panel:



Speakers up, eh?

Tony

[Tom&Shelly]

It's snowing. I must be bored because I just cranked out a video about last week's rebuild of my electrical panel

Tony

Looks like you switched out the Baylite for the AiLi.

(I expect to have our electrical system, including an AiLi meter, finished later this week. Got wires going every which-way. I'll post it on my build folder.)

Tom

[tony.latham]

I did. The AiLi's shunt sense's voltage in both directions so it'll show amps going from the solar system to the battery.

Which is kinda goofy, since my solar controller does the same.

Tony

[Tom&Shelly]

I did. The AiLi's shunt sense's voltage in both directions so it'll show amps going from the solar system to the battery.

Which is kinda goofy, since my solar controller does the same.

Tony

Well, I suppose if you ever charge from the tow vehicle, the AiLi will see that and the charge controller won't. We may charge from AC shore power, the tow vehicle, or the solar panel on our garage, or one carried with us, so I wanted the battery meter to see everything.

I have one switch to cut the battery from the PD 4045, which will cut out the parasitic draw from the USB ports. We'll use that when we store the teardrop in the garage for several months at a time. Considered adding a second switch to cut out the tow vehicle (like you have), but to get an identical switch, I'd have to take apart an old AGM battery based emergency battery pack (which is where I got the first one). But the second emergency pack still seems to work, and I hate to break it.

Guess that may be a poor reason to risk the battery, but we'll see in a few years how bad it really is. Both the solar controller and the PD 4045 have AGM battery charging protocols, but I'm not sure how putting them together will work either. Our first plan is still to go out to the rainy/gloomy (read less solar power) Northeast once travel restrictions are lifted, and spend a few months exploring, probably only spending a few days at most at any campsite (preferably free when possible, with no shore power), so the main source of charge will be the tow vehicle.

By the time we're ready for a new battery, I may consider upgrading to a LifePo, or flux capacitors, or a uranium rod, or something.

Tom

[rjgimp]

Great Scott! A flux capacitor like this one?

[tony.latham]

I have one switch to cut the battery from the PD 4045, which will cut out the parasitic draw from the USB ports.

In the winter, I have a Noco charger that keeps the battery topped-off. I keep the master switch on so I can read the battery voltage (via Bluetooth) through the Renogy app on my phone. Too easy.



Tony

[JoeGrz]

It's snowing. I must be bored because I just cranked out a video about last week's rebuild of my electrical panel:

the video came up on youtube the other day. I have a cnc router that I hope to finish up and get working as soon as I finish my build and all the other household chores I have put off for the last year

By the time we're ready for a new battery, I may consider upgrading to a LifePo, or flux capacitors, or a uranium rod, or something.

If I get one of those uranium rods, maybe I could get some air conditioning and take the trailer out to see my parents in Florida this summer. I too looked at LifePo and couldn't justify it

[grr8]

Wow - this 29 page thread was so interesting I read it all at once. Couldn't stop. But why DID it stop? It doesn't seem right... Its been 5 months since the last post. Well, I am happy to get all this advice so generously offered. Thank you! I have so many questions. I guess I will start a new thread. But what do you think? Is it ok that I made my trailer frame with the A frame tongue welded through the frame on the same plane? I did not do the conventional a frame supporting the chassis from underneath. Its 5X9 - made with 2X3 X 1/8" wall steel
-Glen
(see attached photo - upside down at the moment to paint)

[tony.latham]

But why DID it stop?

Glen:

I do slip stuff onto this thread from time to time.



But she -–Flame–- is still running around the west providing a nest for us.

I think your chassis will be fine.



Good luck with your build.

Tony

[grr8]

Thanks Tony. I just needed reassurance since it is seldom seen. I was wanting the trailer low because the tow vehicle is a car yet without sacrificing clearance.
I NEED to be where that photo is taken!! Spectacular!!
Cheers,
Glen
I'm buying you book BTW. Even though it is $40- in CDN with shipping, I'm sure it will save me more than that.

[tony.latham]

I'm buying your book BTW. Even though it is $40- in CDN with shipping...

OUCH! The reason I published it with black and white photos was to keep the (U.S. dollar) price below $20.

But why $40? I see it listed on Amazon Canada for $23.66?

https://www.amazon.ca/Building-Teardrop-Trailer-Crafting-Heirloom/dp/B083XVH9XQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=building+a+teardrop+trailer&qid=1629472694&sr=8-1

Did you buy it from Amazon U.S. maybe?

Tony

[grr8]

It was Amazon.ca and they add 9- for shipping - but they simply convert the US to Cdn. It was 37.- total.
I’m sure it is worth it.


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