Well, I could have my math wrong, so I'll share it. I think I've got it all right, but I'm new at solar.
Each cell would be 3.2V nominal, and 60 Ah.
Volts x Ah = Wh, so each cell would be 192 Wh.
In an 8s2p configuration, the battery will only have 120 Ah.
But Watt-hours are additive regardless of the configuration of the cells in the battery, so 16 cells x 192 Wh per cell is 3,072 Wh, or about 3 kWh.
Each cell is capable of 180 Amps continuous charge or discharge. They will also be in pairs (parallel), which doubles the maximum continuous current to 360 Amps.
As far as discharging, with everything on, and with the fridge and A/C unit both peaking, it all should still be below 75 Amps. It's extremely unlikely that everything will be running full power at once, More like 20A or less most of the time. But just the same, I've picked out a BMS that will limit the battery to 80 Amps either direction.
For charging, each panel is 100W, and if the charge controllers could actually get that much from each panel and send it to the battery without loss, there could be as much as 1000 Watts, and at the batteries lowest voltage of 20V, it would be receiving 50A.
Between the truck power, inverter generator, and grid power (which can only be used one at a time) grid power would still only be able to send up to 20A to the battery. So a theoretical upper limit of 70A could be charging the battery at once. Though some of that would likely be running at least the fridge from time to time. And as the battery gets more charged, the current will drop.
For weight, each cell is listed at 1.2-1.4 Kg. That would be about 3 lbs each. Then 16 would be 48 lbs. This is just the cells without the BMS and wires and things.
This is all still theoretical, based on advertisements and spec sheets. For all I know they're lying through their teeth. As I gather parts though, I plan to hook it all together before I install it in the trailer. Check each cell for any heat under load and actual capacity. That sort of thing. Also the plan changes a little every time I learn something new, so the actual setup I build may very well be a bit different than what I've got planed right now. All depends on whether or not it works, LOL.
I can do a capacity test on a little tester I have. To see if it can handle the high discharge current though, I'll have to find something with low resistance and a high tolerance to Watts. Like an old heating element or something. In fact, I'll want to test the inverter, converter, and charge controllers, and the fridge, to see how much heat they build up in an enclosed space.
Well, anyway, I hope that makes some sense. I've got spreadsheets helping me keep track of it all, but it's still a lot to figure out.
