Dry fitting the hatch with exterior 1/8 inch ply sub-skin shows no noticeable "spring-back." To ensure this remains the case I will probably pre-bend the interior skin before putting it on.

Also put the first coat of "the mix" on the hatch exterior. This pic is a 1:2 mix of poly and mineral spirits. Why did I pick 1:2 for the first coat? Because some of you guys said start at 1:3 and others of you said 1:1. I can math good enough to figure out halfway between the two.*

Next: More coats of the mix, caulking where necessary, aluminum skin, extruded aluminum angles along the sides and bottom, locking t-handles, tail lights, license plate lights, interior skin, and interior galley lights. I already wired everything up for all that.
Then resume work on the main body: coat everything with "the mix," caulk, re-attach aluminum skin on top and sides, affix all aluminum angle pieces to seams, re-install door, window, and vent.
Then the last bulk work is to bolt/weld the tongue box on including some fabrication work to build a bracket (something I have no idea how to do

), do a better job of attaching the tongue extension (that the "PI" put on with two carriage bolts... I can't believe the trailer got all the way back here from Utah like that!), install bigger diameter wheels/tires (12" wheels 4 lug on 4"), install fenders.
Then I take a trip to the DMV to get everything registered! I feel like an end point is starting to emerge from the fog on a far off horizon!
The plan is to leave some of the interior cabinetry undone when we go the first time to see what life inside a teardrop is really like.
*I know that a 1:2 is not really the average of 1:1 and 1:3. Choosing 1:2 was a semi-educated guess.
I don't want to sell anything, buy anything, or process anything as a career. I don't want to sell anything bought or processed, or buy anything sold or processed, or process anything sold, bought, or processed, or repair anything sold, bought, or processed. You know, as a career, I don't want to do that. -Lloyd Daubler
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