WANTED: The Simplest Solar Setup

[Dahlia47]

Good morning! I have decided after much looking NOT to go with the little "Solar Generator/Power Pack". It is just not enough to power my 12-volt fridge and lights. I don't care about powering my phone/tablet/computer and other stuff I don't need while camping. My phone can keep a charge for 3 days with only using it as a camera. I am rarely out for more than 3 days anyways. And if I am out for more than 3 days I can charge it on the solar if need be. Lights arent a must either. As everyone may know, I can't stand the water in the ice chest. I have gotten sick from the dirty water leaking into ziploc bags and tupperware. Not fun.
So I need the simplest solar setup. I have a very small space for this. I know I need a battery, some wires, a solar panel and what am I missing beyond these items?
Can I keep this in my TT while I am in it? Does it need to be sealed? And what needs to be wired to what?
I'll be leaving in 3 weeks for my first trip of the year. I got a bit of time to set it up.

[noseoil]

The simplest system you need is to run the calcs backwards from the load. Let's say you need to draw 50 watts (volts X amps = watts, watts / volts = amps, etc.), that's fine, but for how long? If it needs to run at night for 6 hours, you will need 6 x 50, or 300 watts of juice overnight. So 300 / 12 volts (your battery/storage) = 25 amp hours of energy. You typically use 1/2 of the battery's storage, not more, for a wet cell battery. With an AGM battery you can bump that up a bit. That being said, I would use a 50 AH battery in this case. With this system, you need a solar panel with 50 watts to charge. Also, a fuse or fuse-able link needs to be between the battery & the loads.

I use an arbitrary number of 1 watt of solar panel per amp-hour of storage (we're in New Mexico with mostly sunny skies here). You need a minimum of a battery, a solar panel & a charge controller to manage the system & keep the battery charged. There are too many different scenarios with your question to give a "simple" answer. An AGM battery is better in confined spaces, since it's not vented like a wet-cell storage battery. A vented battery box is a good idea in a confined space if it's a regular car battery. The 35 AH wheel chair AGM batteries are a good value, but I don't know your power requirements, so you may not have enough storage with just one...

[Cosmo]

I have both an AGM in the trailer and I wired in a Jackery.
The combo is hard to beat (for my needs).

You can slap together a system in 30 min if you have a meter and parts. You can test it before you depart on your trip.

Simplest setup? Buy a modest controller https://amzn.to/3qtHNgv Has a large capacity for solar panel input. But it can accept additional solar panels if you choose to grow the system.

Buy a battery. Leave it outside to avoid trailer modifications to accommodate the battery, controller and wiring.

If outside - put the controller in a baggie or box for rain protection. You can get a solar panel with a built in controller but it may limit you if you decide to grow the system.

I prefer separate components that can be swapped out if I choose, or if they fail.

Its personal choice but for my needs a 100 watt solar panel is a good place to start (for me). You needs are of course different than mine. I cant recommend how much food your should take too... Ha ha ha

You could add up the total amps or watts your needs will require and add 20% or more to that to size the battery. Watts divided by volts = amps AND amps multiplied by volts = watts.

One rule of thumb I agree with is an AGM battery or lead acid wet cell only delivers about 50% of the rated amp hours before it falls below the 10.5 volt threshold. SO a 120 amp hour battery may only deliver 60 amps or 720 watts (Amps * volts = watts).

The Jackery type boxes with lithium batteries can be drained about 90% so a 120 amp hour Jack can deliver about 88 amps. You can drain them to zero but its not a good idea. Lithium can not be recharged below freezing and the units I have can not be discharged below +16F https://youtu.be/pSQeVZBhdnM


In this order.
1) Connect the controller to the battery.
2) Connect the controller to the solar panel.
3) Connect the battery to the trailer and consume!
Some controllers can not tolerate reversing step 1 and 2

A volt meter is a good idea to monitor your uses. Do not drain the battery below 11 – 10.5 volts. It could damage battery and may void any warranty. RECHARGE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE in all circumstances for lead acid/AGM
Keep the battery fully charged as often as possible for longest battery life. Do not store battery discharged. It causes sulphation of the lead plates as sulfur leaves the sulfuric acid and coats the lead plates leading to less performance. Recharging will reverse that process if its not beyond help. There are other measures to - but for now lets keep it simple. >>> Recharge and keep recharged whenever possible <<<.

I have done some very acetic camping and still do. But all the electric I want in my trailer setup is true luxury.

Another option is to wire the battery with a cigarette lighter plug and charge the battery while you drive. You can use the controller or skip it depending on a few factors I do not have about your vehicle. I am sure others can help with this.

Enjoy! Happy Holidays
=Cosmo

[tony.latham]

The simplest would probably be a folding 100-watt system (that has its own controller) that plugs into your teardrop with a Zamp connector that is connected to your battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GNMPZZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Foldable-Waterproof-Controller/dp/B079JVBVL3/ref=sr_1_1?crid=X4S71GMW5OHU&keywords=100+watt+renogy+folding&qid=1640635424&s=automotive&sprefix=100+watt+renogy+folding%2Cautomotive%2C129&sr=1-1

Tony

[TimC]

In addition to those suggestions where you camp is an important variable to consider. Southwest US and you can downsize a bit vs midwest or east coast. When you decide on a system consider solar production for the area you will visit.

Simplest system would be to get two 50 watt panels, a 15 amp charge controller and a 50 to 100 aHr AGM battery. Connect the two panels with a pair of hinges so they fold up and attach the charge controller to the back side of the panels. A 25' 12 awg two conductor cable (I use OFC speaker wire) will allow you to move the panels a couple times per day to maximize production. Attaching the panels to the trailer roof will cut production vs moving them to follow the sun. That folding system Tony suggested would be a good choice and is really only a few bucks more than a DIY. They've come down to a reasonable price since I built my sons.

My 35 liter fridge uses around 14 aHr per day with ambient temps around 70 during the day and 60 at night. A couple LED light fixtures will add a small amount of draw. Worst case scenario for my system is it will draw between 15 and 20 aHrs in a 24 hour period. On a sunny day 100 watts of panels will recover that use. If you have a 50 aHr AGM battery you will have a little more than a day of power (assuming drawing battery to 50% and no sun).

This is my 100 watt suitcase panel set up I made for my son's teardrop (about halfway down on the following page). He chose to put the charge controller in the tongue box. I would recommend putting it on the suitcase.
https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=72877&hilit=+suitcase&start=60

OFC speaker wire is Oxygen Free Copper wire. That's pure copper wire as opposed to CCA (copper clad aluminum)

[saltydawg]

I have done 2 very simple solar installs, one was a little guy done for a lady. It has a 35 ah agm battery, a 50 watt panel and a pwm charge controller. It feeds 2 usb chargers, a fan inside, and a few lights. There is two switches in the galley, one turns on the usb plugs to prevent a slow drain, and the other the galley lights. Inside the camper is 2 switches, one for the fan the other for the light.
'
The other one is not as simple, but still simple over all, 100 watt panel, 100 ah lithium battery, feeds a few usn plugs, a plug for a fridge, a radio, some lights and a roof fan and normal fan inside.

The little guy setup will probably do you just fine, just up the panel to 100 watts and the battery to a 100 ah agm.

[Dahlia47]

Thank You!

[RJ Howell]

I do agree with Noseoil. It's had to recommend without 'you' doing a Power Audit to begin with. My first impression is from your statement of not buying a Powerpack.. The Jackery 1000 claims 47ah useable power and only requires the addition of a solar panel. These setup packs are about as simple as they get and run even higher amp hour.

Are you planning on more than that of usage?
This why I also recommend you do the power audit and determine first what your requirements are.

I run a 60ah Lithium with a 120w portable solar panel. The panel is for extended stays as I recharge for the truck altenater (DC/DC) as I drive. I'm running a DC frig (my biggest draw), some lighting, occasional fans and recharging phone/tablet at times. My max draw was estimated at 28 amps. reality is 24 amps max, 22 amps typical.

If you're uncertain how to do a power audit, list the items by wattage usage and we'll assist.

Safe Travels

[Dahlia47]

The only thing that will be connected is the fridge. It's the C9 Alpicool.
45Watts
110-220v/12v/24v
AC 0.8A-0.3
DC 4.0A/2.0A
I might hook up an led light. I don't really like to when I'm out.

[TimC]

The only thing that will be connected is the fridge. It's the C9 Alpicool.
45Watts ... I might hook up an led light. I don't really like to when I'm out.

In that case I would suggest a 50 aHr Mighty Max AGM battery. Can be placed most anywhere in the trailer. AGMs can be placed on their sides or any other way. Some folks will suggest the battery should be in a ventilated spot but I had 144 aHr in an enclosed area for five years with no problems. Some ventilation would be a safe choice.
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-Replacement-Trolling/dp/B01MQY0OPH/ref=asc_df_B01MQY0OPH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459691688606&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7608197749091588560&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019075&hvtargid=pla-1147339822712&psc=1
[/url]

And then Tony's suggestion for a folding suitcase by Renogy. After that you will just need to decide on a set of wires to run from your solar charger (built into the panel suitcase) to the battery location. Use some type of connector on the end of the wire to plug in the solar panel. I wired the battery to a "waterproof" exterior inlet to make it easy to connect and disconnect. If you want more information about those options just ask and we'll give some suggestions.

Cosmo has a lot of experience with the portable lithium battery packs. If the 50 aHr proves to be too small (which is doubtful with the draws you mention) investing in one of those for a backup might be a good choice, though adding an additional 50 aHr battery would be more economical. Build your battery compartment to fit at least two of the 50 aHr batteries and you'll have an easy upgrade down the road.

Tim

[friz]

The only thing that will be connected is the fridge. It's the C9 Alpicool.
45Watts ... I might hook up an led light. I don't really like to when I'm out.

In that case I would suggest a 50 aHr Mighty Max AGM battery. Can be placed most anywhere in the trailer. AGMs can be placed on their sides or any other way. Some folks will suggest the battery should be in a ventilated spot but I had 144 aHr in an enclosed area for five years with no problems. Some ventilation would be a safe choice.
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-Replacement-Trolling/dp/B01MQY0OPH/ref=asc_df_B01MQY0OPH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459691688606&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7608197749091588560&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019075&hvtargid=pla-1147339822712&psc=1
[/url]

And then Tony's suggestion for a folding suitcase by Renogy. After that you will just need to decide on a set of wires to run from your solar charger (built into the panel suitcase) to the battery location. Use some type of connector on the end of the wire to plug in the solar panel. I wired the battery to a "waterproof" exterior inlet to make it easy to connect and disconnect. If you want more information about those options just ask and we'll give some suggestions.

Cosmo has a lot of experience with the portable lithium battery packs. If the 50 aHr proves to be too small (which is doubtful with the draws you mention) investing in one of those for a backup might be a good choice, though adding an additional 50 aHr battery would be more economical. Build your battery compartment to fit at least two of the 50 aHr batteries and you'll have an easy upgrade down the road.

Tim

Sage advice. The only thing I would do differently is go straight for 100ah and 100w of suitcase solar, because fan. I can't imagine anyone sleeping without air moving in a tear.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[tony.latham]

The only thing that will be connected ...

As Friz, mentioned, where's the fan?

I bought a teardrop in 2004 that didn't have a fan. In 2013 we got a tear-tour of one with a fan. Three weeks later I was building my first DIY and trust me. It got a fan.



They're that important in a teardrop.

Tony

[Cosmo]

Let me join the chorus. Fan or fry. My favorite vent is the Max Fan.

All vents are a compromise. The Max Fan eliminates rain entry unless its an all out attack with gusting wind, from the weak side. Then I have to close the vent (always an memorable event). 95% of the time I can leave the door windows open on both sides in the rain. When its hot, humid and raining hard, the vent fan is a huge help. I hunted down a manual Max Fan with a knob. I did not want the remote control model. I need the exercise.

My vent is shielded from 3 sides and that is good 3/4 of the time. I am always trying to arrange bottom up air flow. When the wind is coming from the un-shielded side of the vent the furry of nature reverses the air flow. That's fine unless its raining hard. I have 2 choices shut the vent, or use the fan. When the wind wants to win, the wind wins.

I camped a lot this year. I hope to top it in 2022.

Nature always a refuge. Even now.

Happy New Year!

=Cosmo

[Dahlia47]

We have a couple of fans. Lol, We have 2 that can be powered by battery or plug-in. Luckily they fit in the windows and the air flow is great! Especially when we stay on the beach.

[RJ Howell]

The only thing that will be connected is the fridge. It's the C9 Alpicool.
45Watts
110-220v/12v/24v
AC 0.8A-0.3
DC 4.0A/2.0A
I might hook up an led light. I don't really like to when I'm out.

That C9 is a quarter the size of my frig... I agree a 50ah will do the deed. I still would shop lithium or go 100ah AGM to allow for any add-on's in the future. lithium is just so lightweight and unless you camp in winter (colder temps) it serves well.

Safe Travels