Indiana Rambler

[S. Heisley]

Nice looking teardrop profile! You're doing great!

[Indiana Rambler]

Nice looking teardrop profile! You're doing great!

Thank you very much!


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[Indiana Rambler]

Put the first of three ceilings on last night. Soaking the towels in hot/boiling water to contour the bend and ratchet straps. I used #6 1/2 screws to attach it to the inside walls (upper lip). This red oak plywood isn’t as playable as I’d hoped it would be! Also, finished out the floating floor.


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[Indiana Rambler]

Finished up building the base pull out drawers for the kitchen area. The ceiling is round two for steaming. Again.
i






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[lfhoward]

Beautiful wood working! Wow!

[Staryder61]

Your pullouts are working well..
Dado joints are nice and tight, excellent job on the drawers..
On your ceiling radius you are trying to bend the plywood over. That is a tight bend. Is that 1/4" oak you are trying to make that radius with?

[Indiana Rambler]

Thank you both for the compliments. My dadoes weren’t as good as I liked. I had a few blowouts because of the type of wood I ended up using for the drawers. I used a little cheaper alternative to keep things light back there. I figure I can trim out the uglies with some aluminum angle after all is said and done.

As for the plywood, I’m using 1/8 inch red oak veneer. I thought that would be easiest to bend. And, I’m bending it with the grain, not against it. If all else fails, I
May have to kerf the radius.


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[Staryder61]

Plywood not the best wood to dado, no matter how good. (Voids and blowouts here and there). I used Baltic birch and still had blowouts with a brand-new router bit. Overall, they look good though. And stronger than just a butt joint.
Hard to bend a radius that tight with the edge of the plywood ending on that radius. As you mentioned kerfing can help..

[Indiana Rambler]

Ok, little help here. I’m ready to start putting up the spars on the roof of the tear drop. I was planing on using the 1 3/16 x 6 boards that came with the purchase of a trailer (or was that the other way around?). I was going to rip these down to a specific size for the camper. The boards are pine, and I know I should use poplar or some other kind of wood, but would it be ok to use what I already have? And, if it is, what should the thickness of the spar be? Tony uses 1 inch wide poplar in his book, but I was hoping just maybe I can get away with 1 1/2 wide, 2 inch high with the boards I already have?


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[Staryder61]

Several people on here I have seen ran 1 1/2" x 2 for theirs. And I ran 1 1/2 x 2 poplar and pine on my build on the roof.



The other spars I used 3/4" x 2 " material, matter of preference, I guess. I used what I had also.

[Indiana Rambler]

Several people on here I have seen ran 1 1/2" x 2 for theirs. And I ran 1 1/2 x 2 poplar and pine on my build on the roof.



The other spars I used 3/4" x 2 " material, matter of preference, I guess. I used what I had also.

Thank you Staryder


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[Indiana Rambler]

Little work this weekend on the drop. Ended up having to Kerf the plywood for the bend. I ended up adding a layer of fiberglass and resin over my butchered installed kerf job. Thank god this will be covered!
Installed the second sheet for the ceiling, and had to open up the porthole window because of misinformed sizing before the purchase . Decided to do a test for of the window and door before I get too far along as well.





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[tony.latham]

Little work this weekend ...

Looking goog but check your Personal Messages.

Tony

[Indiana Rambler]

Have t posted in a bit so here goes,
Started the spars and framing of the stargazer window and vent fan.
Installed a custom spar to accommodate the seam in the roof panels.



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[tony.latham]

Looking, great.

Tony