Can someone give feedback on my electrical plans?

[memsiej]

Sorry in advance- I cannot for the life of me figure out how to link in these posts. Tried to add an image, too.
Starting my first ever teardrop build. Before I get going I want to make sure I have a solid plan for the accessory electrical. We won't need much; an outlet for some device charging, an exterior and interior light, and a fan. Because of the low demand, we want to go with solar but also have a plug in option if we end up at a site with electrical.

Solar: I've been looking at viewtopic.php?f=30&t=11275 for reference and feel confident in creating this type of system. We do live in the PNW, though, so I'm worried about whether or not it is practical to go solar.

Direct: In case we park somewhere with electrical, I've been looking viewtopic.php?f=30&t=37732.

I've rewired restoration vehicles and feel confident in my electrical, but only when I have very clear and concise diagrams. I've yet to find a diagram for direct wiring to the existing vehicle that allows me to feel confident. Maybe with more research I can get there, but if not, would a combination plan like this work?

[troubleScottie]

What you have is fine. Isolating big consumers is good. Shutoff switch to disconnect all loads from battery.

Additions: If you have shore power, you might want to charge your battery. Although the simple extension cord is fine, it will not allow you to run the DC connected components. You can add a battery charger - something that is useful while the trailer is at home/storage. Alternatively people install more elaborate (complex, more expensive) power systems that have AC fuses, DC charging, DC fuses, etc. Remember, sometimes you will not have any or very minimal solar power.

If you want to charge you battery while driving, you need connection to battery, fuses, solenoid (to turn off when not wanting to charge) and wire from front of vehicle to rear and onto the trailer. You also would need a DC-to-DC charging controller. Often stand alone solar controllers have 2 inputs. You might be able to use the built in controller on the solar panel.

Also, you might want switches to power the various appliances as opposed to using the switches on the device itself. It provides a mechanism to conserve power.

You might want a switch in the solar feed to the battery. Also a fuse in that wiring.

Of course, you can glam things up -- heater; TV; radio; frig/cooler; different lights - reading, overhead, in cabinets, in galley, porch lites; computer chargers; air conditioner; water pump; and AC outlets.

[JasenC]

You might think about adding a battery charger so you can quickly top off the battery in the driveway before your trip. If you have any USB receptacles that have LEDs in them you might want to put in a power switch to those so they don't slowly drain your battery when not in use.

Other than that you look to have a solid K.I.S.S. design.

[tony.latham]

You should add an inline fuse to the wire that feeds the fuse box.

I added a Zamp connector that goes directly to the battery. NOCO has an adapter that will work with their chargers so I can plug it in during the winter to maintain the battery.



The other thing you might consider is an Aili battery monitor. They're about $40 but they really help with keeping an eye on the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/AiLi-Battery-Monitor-Voltmeter-Motorhome/dp/B07CTKYFTG/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1P8EQ10GMOQ7X&keywords=aili+meter&qid=1659294671&s=books&sprefix=aili+meter%2Cstripbooks%2C133&sr=1-2



Tony

[JasenC]

Nice catch Tony.

[saywhatthat]

some thing you may want to add battery liminator it kicks the battery out when it gets to a certain voltage .So you don't over discharge the battery

[MickinOz]

I like the simplicity of your system. It pretty much reflects what I do.
I prefer to buy lights and things that have the switch built in. Makes the wring as simple as it can be.
Couldn't source anything I was happy with this time, so the switches have been mounted as close to the lights as possible.
It's not like you have to reach very far to get to a light to operate the switch.
Haven't seen too many switched USB charging outlets. But they all seem to come with super annoyingly bright indicator LEDS, so I build in a small switch so I can turn the power off at the outlet.
Also, I do put an inline fuse in the main wire that runs from the battery to the fuse box. As close to the battery as I can make it.
With regard to AC, I don't like to have AC devices. If you fall in that category, the trick would be to take a small charger and an extension cord for those times you have access to shore power.

[tony.latham]

But they all seem to come with super annoyingly bright indicator LEDS...

This is the one I use, dunno if you (Mick) can get it over there?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJW3ZRP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Tony

[friz]

But they all seem to come with super annoyingly bright indicator LEDS...

This is the one I use, dunno if you (Mick) can get it over there?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJW3ZRP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Tony

These are great. They feel much more substantial then the ones I had before.

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