Jasen's 6x10 squaredrop

[JasenC]

Almost gave up when the sky orb crossed over the front of the house and unleashed it's death ray right into the garage, but seeing I got vary little down the past couple weeks I stuck it out with the aid of an ice cold Widmer bros hefeweizen.

Foam is done, less than 1.5 sheets, as you can see in the background, despite the fact the floor is 60 sq ft

[JasenC]

They have arrived.
I've been struggling with my lighting choices for awhile and needing to figure it out so I can do any blocking I may need to install the lights, the surface mount, rope lights, recessed puck style lights etc. just don't have enough style for me, I need something more.

These will be at the 45deg front corners inset into the walls, mostly, through a larger hole of the same shape as the bulb, I think, cut into the interior skin. This will keep them out of harms way, mostly, for a unique look.

Warm white 12V 4W 400lm dimmable.



For that back wall flanking the bed I'm leaning towards these installed in the same manor or building wall mounted lamp bases out of black wall pipe and some fittings.

[JasenC]

Was a frustrating work week which has me a bit wore out but I got a little dirty work done today.
Had a few spots to knock down with the belt sander which left me with a nice pink frosting to my already greying hair.
Also drilled the holes to run the tails and side marker wiring into the camper. Fished some 14g wire through the holes, taped the string to it and pulled it back through, I used enough string to tie the ends together so they don't accidently get pulled out. I'll use the string to pull the wiring through once the walls are up.



The holes for the side markers are 11" deep.
Pro tip: Us a straight edge to help eyeball that you're drilling straight and level.

[JasenC]

Floor is all but done and bolted down. I had enough 3M 78 to get 2 panels finished, I applied it pretty heavily when doing the bottom sheeting otherwise one can would have been enough.
I had ordered 2 more can's Friday, they arrive tomorrow.
Lowes was out of nylock nuts so I used regular nuts for now, I'll pick up some nylocks tomorrow when I'm running around Seattle.

Ready to apply the 3M and PL const. adhesives.





1/2" and 1/8" rubber isolator's



I needed the 1/8" for the back 2 attachments points seeing my 2' extension rails are made from one of the shorter cross rails that I had substituted with some 1/4x 1.5x 3" channel at the axle.

[JasenC]

Got a chance to do a little work today.

Chucked up a 1/2" spiral bit and tuned things up, had to tweak it about an 1/8" to get it square and true and cleaned up the glue squeeze out at the same time.
Found a screw just as I was finishing up, that cost me a $50 bit
Leaving a little extra width on the bottom sheathing, I'll trim it back with a flush trim bit on the trim router once the walls are up.

[JasenC]

Spent about 90 mins out there today, the 2.75 yo grandson arrives soon to stay for the week.

Got the BAL C-jacks installed.
I used 22" in the back attached horizontally to the frame. In the front the A-frame was in the way and I didn't want to move the jacks that far towards the rear or build them down under the A-frame thus losing ground clearance so I did 25" jacks attached to the floor parallel to the frame, I'll use the tongue jack to take up the weight of the trailer although I don't think it's really much of an issue.
When cranking them up they were pretty creaky and squeaky so I squirted some lithium grease on the ACME screw and other moving parts. This is 5" of lift, they might make 6" fully extended.
These are really stable, I gave it a good shove sideways and the jacks skidded on the floor but they didn't really lean or twist, got up on there and busted loose with my best rendition of the funky chicken and still not a lot of movement, much more stable than I imagine scissor jacks would be based off my experience of changing a few tires with those things.