Serenity TearDrop Build

[orourkmw]

Ralph, I would like to ask a couple more questions about your trim work. I didn't fully follow how you laid it out. It sounds like the trim on the top and the sides is all 1/8" thick, and you refer to the "stack" when you strapped it down (and in my mind's eye that was quite a feat! I kinda imagine that old child's game of pixie sticks if it comes unsprung). I'm unclear as to how you ended up with what I understand to be 2" on top and 2" on the sides. Would you mind explaining it a little more? Still noodling on what I might do.

Also, did you use a special Raka epoxy that is particularly thick, yet clear? I keep thinking about how I am going to fiberglass the hatch when the time comes.
Mike

[western traveler]

Thanks Garth, hope you two are enjoying your build!

Mike,
Sorry for not being clear.
I have a friend that has a cabinet shop. I left a 16 foot by 12” by 2” piece of mahogany (plus a few remnants) with him over the winter along with my Template. He did all the milling and planing to get the thicknesses we needed.

1/2 inch thick by 1 1/2” wide pieces for the side radiuses along the roof line (see them taped to the edge in the one photo (there is a lot of waste when cutting the curves into a plank).

Then he found a thickness that would bend along the top edge of the template without breaking. That was 1/8” thick (It is important to have the grain running lengthwise on these strips).
He cut those 2 1/2” wide.

I epoxied the side pieces to the roofline and clamped them in position being sure they were at the peak or a touch proud. Once the resin hardened I sanded everything flush to the roofline.

I have a rock guard that extends about 24” up on the front of the TD. I started at that point for the pieces on the roof (see the hook on the ratchet strap at the front. I buttered them up then worked with the stack from the forward end as each travels a different length along the curve. I needed to use blocks of wood to force the end of the strips tight to the front wall). I staggered the length of those so the bitter ends fell in different locations and then the second stack was cut flush with the hurricane hinge.

Those pieces were 2 1/2” wide by 1/8” thick. 4 pieces tall and flush to the outside of the side molding raised the side molding to 2”

I hope I didn’t make this sound elementary as I know your work.

I should have included this photo…

[western traveler]

For anyone interested.

For fiberglassing, I’m no expert so someone can correct me if I don’t give sound info.

On the Raka Epoxy site there is a product information tab and a drop down.
Click on Fillers and there are several. Add to a mixed batch of resin till the thickness/consistency wanted. For me somewhere between peanut butter and frosting.
It will slow the rate of cure down enough to work with too.

Going all the way back to my drop floor bottom photo I used Phenolic Micro-balloons (brown) to fill the pocket holes and add a radius where the box met the floor so when I glassed the cloth made a smooth transition between the two surfaces. It is easy to sand and use.

For laminating of the wood strips I used Fumed Silica (carbosil in West systems I think).
It is for gluing and hardens strong. The wood will splinter before it breaks if mixed properly.

I knew I would end up with a few places to fill once I laminated those strips so I started with a clean vacuum attached to my random orbital and collected clean mahogany dust (wood flour) while faring things out. I mixed it into a batch of resin and used it to fair the laminates where needed.
Sanded easily and matches really good.

[orourkmw]

Thanks, Ralph...it is clear now. Don't worry about "dumbing it down" for me! I appreciate a simple explanation! And I am still impressed about your result.
Mike

[western traveler]

Thanks Mike, I am jealous you have a strip cedar canoe built, something I am struggling to commit to so I feared you were thinking…DUH!
(In case someone that didn’t comes along to read this thing).

A few photos to go along with this last process.
I drilled and tapped the square tube for stainless machine screws for the lower skirt and used stainless wood screws for the top piece replacing the screws I had temporarily attached the wall to the floor with. I placed the mahogany plugs random grain pattern because I wanted them to be seen when finished.
I changed out my pipe clamp pipe with PVC to take the weight off the clamps so that they would stay in place with less pressure needed.
Currently out of town again and anxious to get back and start on the varnishing.

[western traveler]

At last!
I am calling this build complete. Of course I have other small things to tinker with but it is what I imagined at the start.
Many thanks to all that answered questions, shared observations and followed along.
Ralph

[nsfr1206]

Great job and congratulations!!!


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[Capebuild]

At last!
I am calling this build complete.

Looks really great, Ralph!! The glossy wood finish is awesome!
Happy Trails ahead........
John

[MickinOz]

Gorgeous.

[western traveler]

Mick and John,
Thank you both.
John, it was great having the TD camp-able through the winter with the satin finish. It gave me an opportunity to compare as the Total Boat Gleam requires multiple coats of gloss before applying satin. I like the gloss look better too so stopped there.
Ralph

[nsfr1206]

Where did you find those fenders?


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[JoeGrz]

What a beautiful build. I love the look of the woody and the trim you have added the past couple months really highlights that great look. hopefully our paths will cross and I can see it in person.

[western traveler]

Thanks Joe,
I appreciate that. It would be great to cross paths with you! The other guys too sometime. I’m so close to Glacier I think it could happen one day or we could circle the wagons right here on the property.

[western traveler]

Due to the way I mounted my 11# propane tank I only get 1/2 cranks before having to roll the crank over for the next. I planned to alter it for use with a drill and finally got around to it. Got this idea off YouTube. Pretty simple. I will keep my handle in my tongue box for backup. I drilled out the all thread connector to fit the shaft then drilled it to accept the cross bolt.

[western traveler]

Well, I broke down and bought a Partner stove last week. Wow, so well built. Unfortunately the stove and I are 1300 miles from the TD right now (a sales tax thing) but it fits in my carryon. Flying to reunite this week. Then comes installation. Hoping my measurements work out.