#2

[GPW]

A Foamie Float Test … I can’t reacall one since "the Bub" !!!

[JazzVinyl]

Here are some pictures of the tongue improvement. Using 2"x2" tube strengthens the frame by spreading the up and down forces on the hitch across the entire trailer rather than the few inches of the original tongue. By attaching the 2"x2" tube to each cross member of the trailer it spreads the pulling stresses across the entire trailer. This also adds, if you wish, a receiver tube at the rear so you can add accessories or provide a pulling point for vehicle extraction if needed.

Hello George...

I see you added some length to the tongue via the new square tube 'backbone'....how much longer is it? The square receiver tube for the removable hitch...did you weld that to the tip of the A..? Can you show detail photos of how that was done, please?

I am very keen on adding the 'backbone' to my trailer

Appreciate!

[ghcoe]

I see you added some length to the tongue via the new square tube 'backbone'....how much longer is it? The square receiver tube for the removable hitch...did you weld that to the tip of the A..? Can you show detail photos of how that was done, please?

I am very keen on adding the 'backbone' to my trailer

Appreciate!

I will try to remember to take some pictures tomorrow. The tube is just bolted in. No welding required unless you want to.

[GPW]

George , that “tongue improvement” to the ubiquitous harbor Freight trailer looks pretty Brilliant !!! That should be a sticky !!!

[ghcoe]

George , that “tongue improvement” to the ubiquitous harbor Freight trailer looks pretty Brilliant !!! That should be a sticky !!!

Well I can't take credit for this one. I actually found the idea on this sight https://tventuring.com/how-to-enhance-a ... -t888.html. Most of the builds there are on HF trailers.

[ghcoe]

More information on how I did my back bone.

First I purchased 2 Class III receiver tubes from Harbor Freight (HF). They sell two lengths, I bought the 18" long ones. I also purchased a 12' length of 2"x2" steel tube. The 2"x2" tube fits inside the receiver tubes. I measured how long I wanted the back bone and added a foot. This allowed the tube to extend 6" into the receivers to allow for some strength. Remember that you still have two feet above that because the receivers are 18". In my case I chose to add two receivers, but if you don't want a receiver on the back of the trailer you can delete that and just bolt the 2"x2" tube to the frame. I chose to add a receiver to the front so I could change out different hitch styles. I have a pintal and standard 2" ball I can change out quickly if needed. Also, this adds some theft prevention since I can remove the whole hitch system from the trailer all together. If you don't want this feature you can delete this receiver and just run the 2"x2" tube up under the existing hitch. If you do choose this option, in my case, you have to extend the tongue out long enough for the hitch tube to fit completely in before hitting the bolt used to fasten the backbone to the A frame.

Receiver and tube

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Hitch

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You can see the bolt that I used to attach the 2"x2" tube to the A frame in this picture. The bolt goes through the top and bottom plate of the A frame.

Hitch bolt

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[ghcoe]

I then bolted through the 1st, 2nd, and 4rd cross member of the trailer with 3/8" bolts. I skipped the 3rd cross member because I will be using these cross member pieces later to strengthen the side frame rails when I move the axle back. These cross members will be replaced with wood. I could not use a bolt on the rear, 5th cross member, because you would not be able to get a hitch/accessory in with a bolt down the middle. I also used a spacer on the 4th cross member to ease the slight bend needed in the 2"x2" steel tube to compensate for the extra thickness of the receiver on the end of the backbone. Again if this is not a feature you want you can bolt through the 2"x2" steel tube at the 5th cross member too.

Tube bolt

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To get by the bolt down the middle of the rear receiver area I used a piece left over out of the trailer kit. This piece is what the caster wheels bolt to, but is not needed if you don't plan on needing the trailer to fold and roll around. I cut it down and added an notch to fit around the receiver tube and purchased some 3/8" bolts to bolt it to the frame. I also added some angle iron to the back side of the trailer frame to give some extra strength there. Added weight will work on this area especially bike racks which tend to ratchet back and forth going down the road.

Receiver support

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Hitch reinforcement

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Well I think that about covers what I did. Like I said if you don't need the receiver tubes you could get by a lot cheaper. The tube cost me $60.00, the receiver tubes cost $18.00 a piece. Welding was free from a friend, but if you don't know a welder I would guess about $50-60 dollars more.

Hope that helps, George.

[GPW]

It’s still a pretty COOL way to beef up a HF trailer . !!! Thanks for the details !!!

[rkanz]

I also removed that leaf. In addition I added Teflon spring liners which also smoothed out the ride. A piece of plastic tubing over the slipper spring bolt will reduce noise.


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[JazzVinyl]

Thank you George, for the complete rundown of the "backbone for an HF trailer"!!

Not sure I would need the bike rack, but the extended tongue (yeah, room for a tongue box) and the added strength is great! First thing I thought about when I saw it, was the security advantage. Would make the trailer much less handy to steal while your out at a hiking trailhead.

I like your extra stabilizing bracket on the back, as well, Nicely configured!

Can't wait to see what you come up with for a 'pull out kitchen'!! Your hinting at moving the axel back, too, looking forward to what that brings. :-)

Cheers, and thanks again!!

More information on how I did my back bone.
You can see the bolt that I used to attach the 2"x2" tube to the A frame in this picture. The bolt goes through the top and bottom plate of the A frame.

[ghcoe]

Thank you George, for the complete rundown of the "backbone for an HF trailer"!!

Not sure I would need the bike rack, but the extended tongue (yeah, room for a tongue box) and the added strength is great! First thing I thought about when I saw it, was the security advantage. Would make the trailer much less handy to steal while your out at a hiking trailhead.

I like your extra stabilizing bracket on the back, as well, Nicely configured!

Can't wait to see what you come up with for a 'pull out kitchen'!! Your hinting at moving the axel back, too, looking forward to what that brings. :-)

Cheers, and thanks again!!

[JazzVinyl]

Alright George, you have inspired me!

I travelled today and picked my 12 foot 2x2 (.120 thickness steel tube) that will become the HF Backbone for my FBO (Foam Bug Out) trailer:

Longer than the trailer:


Tied down with straps...for the 'oh so bouncy' ride home...


In the backyard where the trailer was (we dug the trailer out of the snow, to make this trip)...


Managed to take my (bought used) 13 year old medium duty HF trailer about an hour south of town and bought the tube from a large steel supply house (they cut a 24 foot length tube in 1/2 for my purchase). Was cheap at only $37.00 and change including state sales tax.

Wrangled it home on the old trailer (will be buying a new medium duty HF Trailer for the FBO build) but wanted to make sure I did the backbone, for the strength, security and tongue upgrade it provides.

Hope the HF trailers go 'on sale' after Christmas?

It's all your fault, George!

Grins...cheers!

[ghcoe]

Alright George, you have inspired me!

Hope the HF trailers go 'on sale' after Christmas?

It's all your fault, George!

Grins...cheers!

Sorry! I usually see the trailers go on sale in the spring. Next time you are in Harbor Freight make sure to get on their mailing list. Good luck, George.

[ghcoe]

I have been meaning to do updates on this trailer for some time.

Early last year I finally had a failure on trial with #4. The main spring broke at the axle pin. I did have the short spring flipped to ease the ride a bit. Not sure if that contributed to cause of the failure or not though. We were able to do a field fix and continue on with the rest of the trip.

Here is the picture of the spring with the field repair (hose clamps). I flipped the short spring around and then we clamped the spring pack together with the hose clamps. Worked well.

Spring Repaired

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I took a look around when I got home for a new main spring. Turns out that size of spring is difficult to find. Ether too narrow or too long. I finally decided it was time for a upgrade. Compact Camping Concepts makes a "Harbor Freight Frame Smooth Spring Retrofit Kit". This kit is basically a bolt on kit that smooths out the ride with a longer spring pack. It also includes the frame brace similar to the stock Harbor Freight frame support brace. It also switches to a shackle type spring instead of the slipper style spring https://compactcampingstore.com/product ... spring-kit . This kit was super easy to install and made a big difference in the way the trailer performed on rough roads.

Spring Comparison

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Spring Installed

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[ghcoe]

The next project came earlier this year. I had been using #2 for these years as just a box. It was kind of difficult to keep things organized on the trips since there was really no place to put anything except on the floor. I then purchased a 12v refrigerator and then I realized it was time to do some modifications. First, I needed to find a door that would accommodate the refrigerator, but not reduce interior bed size. This turned out to be a tight fit. I finally found a door that would work.

First a look at what #2 looked like inside before the modifications.

Before Inside

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And a shot outside.

Before Outside

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I marked the door where I hoped I would want it to be. The door is nearly the same height as the entry door. I wanted the lower part of the door the same height as the entry door. The door frame flange had to set back just a bit from the corner canvas line to look right to me.

Door Marked

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