Learning to build a 5x8 square drop

[noseoil]

Just remember, the fuse protects the WIRE, not the device attached to it. Use a chart for run length & wire gauge & you'll be fine. Looking pretty good now.

[DesertApprentice]

Just remember, the fuse protects the WIRE, not the device attached to it. Use a chart for run length & wire gauge & you'll be fine. Looking pretty good now.

Thank you for your reply!

When I tested the trim piece for the hatch, it's 1+1/8" wide, but the galley wall is only 3/4". Looks like I need to pad the wall to accommodate the trim. Is that common or I got the wrong size trim? I checked vintage tech web site, all trims appear to be that wide.

HT11-01.jpg (44.51 KiB) Viewed 1092 times

[eLink]

I added a 3/4" rib to the hatch wall (making it 1.5" total) to accommodate the wide trim. I kind of wish I had made it even wider.
I'm loosely following Vintage Tech's tip:
https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/wi ... lding.html
However, I'll be using a 1 1/2" x 1/2" aluminum angle instead of the trim they recommend, because it's flat and not pre-drilled.

[DesertApprentice]

I added a 3/4" rib to the hatch wall (making it 1.5" total) to accommodate the wide trim. I kind of wish I had made it even wider.
I'm loosely following Vintage Tech's tip:
https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/wi ... lding.html
However, I'll be using a 1 1/2" x 1/2" aluminum angle instead of the trim they recommend, because it's flat and not pre-drilled.

thank you very much!

[DesertApprentice]

I'm about to build the hatch. This part worries me the most
There are literally a dozen things joining at the hinge! I cut a small piece of everything and did a mock-up. I hope to get some confirmation before I charge ahead.

hinge-1.jpg (126.16 KiB) Viewed 1044 times

I bought the flat hurricane hinge from vintage tech, the mock-up is based on vintage tech website tech tips. https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/hurricane-hinge-w-flat-bar.html
As it shows:
- the final exterior hatch surface (#5) raises 1/4" higher than the camper surface because of the aluminum bar (#1).
- since the wall edge surface (#4) is flat with the camper body, so the edge surface is 1/4 lower than the hatch exterior #5.
- I used a plastic (#6) to emulate the final T molding, so it is 1/4 higher than the wall edge (#4).
- galley edge molding (#2) raises approx. 1/4 above the wall edge surface (#4)
TLDR; the T molding bottom (#6) is about level with the galley edge molding (#2). So the T molding will press down flat onto the edge molding with the seal (#3) inside the edge molding,is that correct? The galley seal is about .4". let me know if I'm missing anything.Thank you in advance!

[Capebuild]

From the look/layout of your mock up, if I'm interpreting it correctly, you'll want to extend the hurricane hinge so it hangs over/past the side wall 1/2 to 3/4 inch (on both sides). This directs any rainwater away from the hatch door or finding its way into the seam of the door and galley area.

[tony.latham]

As John aka Capebuild said:



Tony

[DesertApprentice]

Thank you John and Tony!
Yes, I plan to have 1/2" overhang on each side of the hinge.
I would like to confirm when the T-molding is pressed down, the wall edge molding and the galley top side will be roughly flush with each other, the seal will be pressed mostly inside the groove of the edge molding like in the picture . I believe that is true based on many other pictures i see. Thank you!

hinge-t-molding.jpg (152.12 KiB) Viewed 996 times

[eLink]

You have brought up some distressing points for me. So I put together my own mockup and have found that the hinge leg and the T-molding will indeed be sitting on top of the molding and squashing down the rubber seal. I miscalculated somewhere!



I now regret adding the extra strip of 1/8" ply along the top of the galley wall and will have to fix that somehow. But the saving grace your case is that you can simply omit the plywood strip from the top of your galley wall. Like this:

[DesertApprentice]

You have brought up some distressing points for me. So I put together my own mockup and have found that the hinge leg and the T-molding will indeed be sitting on top of the molding and squashing down the rubber seal. ...

Thank you very much!
I took a close at this photo:

i can see you have a player of ply on to the galley wall edge. I don't have that layer. I suppose I'll be OK.
If you glued it on, maybe it can be pried off, not sure.

[eLink]

Looking back at Vintage Tech's tips... It seems like we'll be ok in either case.
https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/hurricane-hinge-w-flat-bar.html

[DesertApprentice]

Looking back at Vintage Tech's tips... It seems like we'll be ok in either case.
https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/hurricane-hinge-w-flat-bar.html

beating the dead horse one more time, here is my calculation,

t-mold-edge-seal.jpg (152 KiB) Viewed 907 times

I think we're ok. I don't know there is an absolute value, i doubt i can control to the 1/16th precision with my skills anyway , i'm going to charge ahead, and I'll be mindful as I proceed. I also watched a lot of Oregon batman's youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5zac5jaOrU

[DesertApprentice]

Here is a long delayed progress update.
I had to correct (change) many things on the fly:
1. the back side was cut long time ago when the hatch design was not thought out. As i started working on the hatch frame, I realized the bottom of the hatch won't even close as it was cut. So I some changes.
Here is pic before the hatch change, the hatch can't close on the bottom:

I rounded off the back side sharp edges, and more importantly, i cut a straight 1.5 inch vertical section on the bottom, now the hatch bottom can close, i'll have to deal with the near 90 deg bend for that 1.5 inch section when I skin and trim it

2. removable fenders, I welded fenders and some steppers along the frame, I realized they will interfere with the final skin install. So I changed the fenders and steppers to be removable.


with this, I can work on the skin not worry about the fenders. I welded some sleeves to the frame, the fenders will be slotted and bolted on.
3. I initially installed interior 1/8 birch ply skin, but I didn't know 1/8 ply has direction, i forced it on the wrong way, it's so rigid, I couldn't make it to confirm to the shape. I only accidentally found out the ply direction as I was mindlessly bending a small cut out piece. So i had to remove the skin, all the brad nails, and redo it I guess you live to learn...

Now as I start on the insulation and wiring, I'm facing anther dilemma. I have 2 porch lights, the wires need to stick out to the outside. Do I need to install the exterior skin before wiring? otherwise, it can be a challenge to pull out the wires when install the exterior skin.

[tony.latham]

I'm facing anther dilemma. I have 2 porch lights, the wires need to stick out to the outside. Do I need to install the exterior skin before wiring? otherwise, it can be a challenge to pull out the wires when install the exterior skin.

I'm in the camp that doesn't believe there's a need for a porch light. But that's not answering your question.



What are you skinning it with? If I wanted a porch light, I think I would run the wires, coil them in an inset hole, mark the spot with a neodymium magnet set flush 1/2" below the wires... and install the aluminum skin. It would be an easy task to locate the wires.



Tony

[DesertApprentice]

I'm in the camp that doesn't believe there's a need for a porch light. But that's not answering your question.

What are you skinning it with? If I wanted a porch light, I think I would run the wires, coil them in an inset hole, mark the spot with a neodymium magnet set flush 1/2" below the wires... and install the aluminum skin. It would be an easy task to locate the wires.

Tony

That's a very cool camping picture
Yeah, I'm using aluminum. That's a very creative idea. I'll see if i can do that. Thanks as always!