Newby from Virginia

[AtticSound]

Been browsing TNTTT for a while now. Lots of great advice and ideas. Thank you all!

Just started my build on a NT 5x8 aluminum trailer kit. Moved Axle 6" back because it looks better! And also because I've calculated my plywood weight and the galley would definitely make it difficult to have that 10% tongue weight. Plan on getting larger wheels/tires but still debating whether to replace the axle or use spacers. Trying to reserve my budget for the aluminum skin. Maybe replace axle later and use spacers for a year or two. Seen posts here that folks have been using spacers without trouble. I will keep them bearings nice and clean and greased at all times.

Profile of finished teardrop will be 9 ft at most bulbous parts, extending 6" at the front and 6" at the back over the trailer frame. Designed it with a 24"radius to allow for gentler plywood and aluminum bending. Purchased black doors from Vintage Technologies. Not sure where to get the trim for the roof. Still trying to locate a local RV repair place that might carry 10-12ft long trim.

Finished floor as of yesterday. Coated with APOC #109 roofing cement. Stinky and sticky. One coat directly on raw plywood then embedded APOC 4" mesh tape laid overlapping 1/4" length-wise and then coated again. In the 40s and 50s in VA now, so drying time is longer than I expected, in particular in the places where it was applied thicker.

Bought plastic washers at Lowes to add as spacers since the kit when assembled has the beams connecting the two side rails 1/8" lower. 3/8" Stainless Steel carriage bolts will be used to fasten the floor to the frame (10 around the perimeter. I also used flashing tape on the perimeter and folded on the edge of the floor. Also because the way this kit assembles, I had to measure and drill recessed space for the bolt heads on the rails. Will put a glob of silicone on each and then lower the floor onto them one rail at a time (I have some help for that step).

I'm sure I'll run into issues - TNTTT to the rescue! My biggest worry is water intrusion, so I'm going to try to be paying attention to what surface overlaps what surface based on how water flows. Have to keep in mind driving and water kind of going upwards and sideways.

[tony.latham]

Stinky and sticky.

Oh, yeah, the La Brea Tar Pits... (I keep trying to shift the teardrop world to sealing with epoxy.)

My biggest worry is water intrusion...

How are you finishing her off?





Tony

[eLink]

Just started my build on a NT 5x8 aluminum trailer kit. Moved Axle 6" back because it looks better! And also because I've calculated my plywood weight and the galley would definitely make it difficult to have that 10% tongue weight. Plan on getting larger wheels/tires but still debating whether to replace the axle or use spacers. Trying to reserve my budget for the aluminum skin. Maybe replace axle later and use spacers for a year or two. Seen posts here that folks have been using spacers without trouble. I will keep them bearings nice and clean and greased at all times.


Profile of finished teardrop will be 9 ft at most bulbous parts, extending 6" at the front and 6" at the back over the trailer frame. Designed it with a 24"radius to allow for gentler plywood and aluminum bending. Purchased black doors from Vintage Technologies. Not sure where to get the trim for the roof. Still trying to locate a local RV repair place that might carry 10-12ft long trim.
.

Welcome!
This all sounds familiar... I decided to change out my wheels and axle during construction, partly because (from what I have read) it's better for freeway speeds, but mostly because it just looks better. I have found that good quality spacers cost nearly as much as a new axle, so I opted for an axle with electric brakes.



As far as Trim, Vintage Tech is a good place for traditional RV trim. But I have found that plain, mill finish aluminum angles from big box stores are a lot cheaper and work fine for most applications.

[AtticSound]

Stinky and sticky.

Oh, yeah, the La Brea Tar Pits... (I keep trying to shift the teardrop world to sealing with epoxy.)

My biggest worry is water intrusion...

How are you finishing her off?





Tony

Will be doing aluminum skins - floating. Sealing raw ply with CPES prior to skinning.
My biggest concern for water intrusion is the bottom perimeter around the frame.

[AtticSound]

Just started my build on a NT 5x8 aluminum trailer kit. Moved Axle 6" back because it looks better! And also because I've calculated my plywood weight and the galley would definitely make it difficult to have that 10% tongue weight. Plan on getting larger wheels/tires but still debating whether to replace the axle or use spacers. Trying to reserve my budget for the aluminum skin. Maybe replace axle later and use spacers for a year or two. Seen posts here that folks have been using spacers without trouble. I will keep them bearings nice and clean and greased at all times.


Profile of finished teardrop will be 9 ft at most bulbous parts, extending 6" at the front and 6" at the back over the trailer frame. Designed it with a 24"radius to allow for gentler plywood and aluminum bending. Purchased black doors from Vintage Technologies. Not sure where to get the trim for the roof. Still trying to locate a local RV repair place that might carry 10-12ft long trim.
.

Welcome!
This all sounds familiar... I decided to change out my wheels and axle during construction, partly because (from what I have read) it's better for freeway speeds, but mostly because it just looks better. I have found that good quality spacers cost nearly as much as a new axle, so I opted for an axle with electric brakes.



As far as Trim, Vintage Tech is a good place for traditional RV trim. But I have found that plain, mill finish aluminum angles from big box stores are a lot cheaper and work fine for most applications.

Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll have to experiment with big box store stuff. I don’t recall seeing material that is longer than 8’ though. I’d like to have two 10’ trim pieces so I have no joint on the top edges from the front to the hurricane hinge.

[tony.latham]

Will be doing aluminum skins - floating. Sealing raw ply with CPES prior to skinning.

Sounds good. Someone on here did the CPES on box store luan, and it dissolved the glue. The stuff is epoxy with thinners in it. I use one coat of thin Raka epoxy. It soaks in and works well.

Tony

[AtticSound]

Will be doing aluminum skins - floating. Sealing raw ply with CPES prior to skinning.

Sounds good. Someone on here did the CPES on box store luan, and it dissolved the glue. The stuff is epoxy with thinners in it. I use one coat of thin Raka epoxy. It soaks in and works well.

Tony

Oh, good to know! Raka penetrating epoxy does not seem expensive at about $40 a pint. How do you apply it? Brush? And do you have a recommendation on approx quantity needed?

Thank you!

[tony.latham]

How do you apply it? Brush? And do you have a recommendation on approx quantity needed?

I would suggest getting their 3-quart kit. Get the pumps when you order and use a squeegee and chip brushes on the vertical.





Mix batches no bigger than about a half cup or so at a time. Too big of a batch will cause the stuff to "go off."

Tony

[AtticSound]

How do you apply it? Brush? And do you have a recommendation on approx quantity needed?

I would suggest getting their 3-quart kit. Get the pumps when you order and use a squeegee and chip brushes on the vertical.





Mix batches no bigger than about a half cup or so at a time. Too big of a batch will cause the stuff to "go off."

Tony

Nice!

As always complete and useful advice from the master TD builder.

This weekend I upgraded the axle, wheels and tires. Sitting on 14 radials now. Getting nice round fenders to go with it eventually. After buying the penetrating epoxy I have to put a temporary moratorium on spending. Focus on labor for a few weekends. Wish me luck.